What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Drive Shaft Problems!

D

dcell152

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2004
Posts
84
Reaction score
0
Location
Nothern Maine
I have a 88 Blazer with a 6 inch Tuff Country spring lift, 205 Transfer, Dana 60 up front, and dana 70 rear. With detroits front and rear. I'm also running 37" Boggers. I rolled my front end to get my drive shaft angle, but when I did it wouldnt steer. So I put it back where I started. Then I bought a high angle cv drive shaft. The salesman talked me out of the expensive one for the lower cost one. It dosnt do much better than stock! Will a drive shaft with a singel u- joint at each end fix my problem? Or do I have to spend 800 on another drive shaft?
 
I don't understand what you mean by "rolled the front end"?
What does that mean?

Does the steering have anything to do with the Detroit?
 
Try a 1410 u-joint. You'll have to get the two yokes, but that shouldn't be more than a couple hundred $. That's what I ended up doing with my setup. It can operate at a higher angle than the 1350 CV. It's not as smooth operating as a CV, but it can take the angle. Oh, and I broke a HAD 1350 CV the first time I took it out with my setup. I broke it because of the excessive angle with the Atlas II transfercase.
 
It sounds bad but, I've heard of grinding down the inside edges of your u-joint and stop it from hitting. This won't fix a vibration though, that has to do with your angles. The ideal setup for a cv driveline would be to have the axle at the same angle as your driveline and for a single u-joint driveline, you need the out-put shaft of your t-case and the yolk on your axle at the same angle give or take a degree or so. Hope this helps.
 
I tried gringing the u-joints. I guess I'll try the singal u-joint, drive shaft. I think it will be my best rout. Other than that I was thinking a high pionon center. I didnt really want tospend that much money right now.
Thank you!
 
The reason that it wouldn't steer is probably because it was rolled too far forward. The upper ball joint, or in this case kingpin, needs to be a certain amount of degrees behind the lower one, this helps the steering return to "Zero" after making a turn. No, don't ask how much because my brain just went dead and I can't remember.




Hold my beer & watch this!
 
dcell152 said:
I tried gringing the u-joints. I guess I'll try the singal u-joint, drive shaft. I think it will be my best rout. Other than that I was thinking a high pionon center. I didnt really want tospend that much money right now.
Thank you!
Click to expand...

Don't use a 1350 single joint. The operating angle is terrible on that size. Like I mentioned above, I went with a 1410 size joint and gained at least 15 degrees over my 1350 single u-joint. I used the driveshaft end yoke off a duece & a half. The driveshaft shop said it was a rare yoke, but it did provide a lot of angle...
 
I found this on Pirate and my experience with the 1350 and 1410 ujoints angles are very similar to these numbers, except the 1410 angles was slightly more than the 37 degrees:

ujointangle.jpg



http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-1410_Yoke/index.html
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom