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Drive shaft

3

321countryboy

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So I have a 1993 chevy k1500 with ifs an I got a 3 inch body lift on it an I was thinking of either putting a 4 or 6 inch lift on it. I wanna do the 6 inch an be 9 inches total an run 37x14.5x15 tires but will I have to get longer drive shafts or should I just got with the 4 inch lift an run 35's thanks
 
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Sorry not every can be as smart as you big dog no need to bring bull **** here. I've just heard rumors of people having to have longer drive shafts with a 9 inch lift that's why I figured I ask an get a opinion from someone. But seems we got a bunch of dicks here who are the Internet tough guys
 
321countryboy said:
Sorry not every can be as smart as you big dog no need to bring bull **** here. I've just heard rumors of people having to have longer drive shafts with a 9 inch lift that's why I figured I ask an get a opinion from someone. But seems we got a bunch of dicks here who are the Internet tough guys
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Im usually one of the nicest guys that can be found to people but if you want to be a cock sucker Ill play ball with you. You came to a square body website primarily for trucks that never had IFS in them. Asked a question about jacking up a road queen, in the wrong section and then want to be a dick because I broke your balls?

Go get spoon-fed on gmt400.com. Thats the kind of truck you have. And to be honest with you the fact that you think having a 3in body lift and 6in suspension lift is the same functional thing on a driveshaft length as having a 9in suspension lift tells me you shouldnt even be picking up a wrench to modify something before your bull**** handy work winds up killing someone on the road.

Thats me not being nice. Now kindly **** off.
 
Sh*t just got real! Vinnie is always helpful to everyone!!!! Even new guy like me that ask crazy?'s and wish I had his 4x4 knowledge and building habits/talent.
 
Lol if you're one of the nicest people here all you had to say was no you're good doing 9 inch lift without getting a extended drive shaft or you could have said post in this section they might be able
To help you out here but instead you wanna post a queer ass meme trying to be a funny guy an no were did I say I was doing the lift myself all im trying to do is estimate stuff out so I can save up during tax return an who said my truck is gonna be a street queen just because it has ifs?
 
321countryboy said:
Lol if you're one of the nicest people here all you had to say was no you're good doing 9 inch lift without getting a extended drive shaft or you could have said post in this section they might be able
To help you out here but instead you wanna post a queer ass meme trying to be a funny guy an no were did I say I was doing the lift myself all im trying to do is estimate stuff out so I can save up during tax return an who said my truck is gonna be a street queen just because it has ifs?
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Go price out a solid axle swap and save your time from buying a hokey drop bracket lift for a wasteful $1500. And yes you'll need a new driveshaft with that. Theres your good, helpful advice.
 
1. Wow

2. Nothing wrong with a pavement pounder. Not everyone is interested in 4xwheeling, and there is nothing wrong with that.

3. I believe there are a LOT of simularities between your truck and late model K5's. 10B rear, 208 or 241 case, and a 700/L60E trans.

I have a 6" lift and ran with the stock driveshaft for quite some time. The slip yoke was pulled out fairly far, but I managed to never have a pogo stick incident. If you are just cruising on roads and you have no vibration, than the stock shaft is probably fine.
BTW, I ran a 9" lift and aggressive 35's for a LONG time and loved the look of it. I now have 36's, but plan to actually go back down to a wide 33" and somewhere around 6-7" of lift.
 
as said solid axle swap would be best if going to be used for offroad heavy .

if short bed std cab prob going to need rear shaft work .

the ext cab and longbed trucks tend not to need rework .

front exhaust y-pipe will need modified with lift as front diff shaft will pass threw it .

and years of lifting trucks / 4x4 vehicles I never liked the 88-98 body style lift kits . they all seem to never offer a raised knuckle kit for the front . they make you drop both upper AND lower control arms . then they never seem to like to hold a alignment after for some reason .

diy4x.com has solid axle kit . offroaddesign.com has a solid axle kit . and few others .
 
and I will say this . vinnie / stomis you need to back off brother . dam that's little hard core right off the bat . :dunno::doah:

this is not the normal here .
 
To answer the question, NO you wont have to extended your driveshafts for the 6" IFS lift. I ran my 92 rcsb for 5 years with 6" IFS lift and stock rear driveshaft, even a couple years with 8" of lift after the SAS. The slip yoke was getting out there but never caused an issue.

So much other fail goes along with it though...37's, 10 bolt rear, stock gears, balljoints, unit bearings, idler & pitman arms, CV shafts will all need frequent replacement. Not to mention that thinking a 3" body lift effects the driveline...

Sweetk30 There are a few knuckle lifts for the GMT400 IFS, Fabtech and RCD (racecar dynamics) are 2 that I can think of offtop of my head. Down side is wider track width up front, they dont drop the front diff as much as a full drop and require more cranking to get level, also you have to cut a mount off front diff. Plus is stock steering centerlink and easier install. Sorry for the useless side track on IFS suspension on a solid axle forum :haha:
 
yeah I upgraded the rear end to a 14 bolt semi float and im prolly gonna do 4.56 gears thanks for the help though guys.
 
321countryboy said:
yeah I upgraded the rear end to a 14 bolt semi float and im prolly gonna do 4.56 gears thanks for the help though guys.
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Leaving a driveshaft for a 10 bolt and upgrading to a larger rear axle like a 14bolt will actually gain you more drive shaft engagement because the pinion is further forward effectively negating the lift as far as slip yoke engagement. Only to a certain extent though.

There that was helpful wasnt it? :whistle:
 
DirtRidinz71 said:
Not to mention that thinking a 3" body lift effects the driveline...
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He never said this, don't know where this is coming from. He said he has a body lift and would like to add either a 4" or 6", depending if the driveshaft can handle a 6" kit or not. Then he mentions the size tire he wants and what his TOTAL lift amount would be. Nothing about a body lift effecting anything else. You guys sure jumped all over this guy.
 
rjfguitar said:
He never said this, don't know where this is coming from. He said he has a body lift and would like to add either a 4" or 6", depending if the driveshaft can handle a 6" kit or not. Then he mentions the size tire he wants and what his TOTAL lift amount would be. Nothing about a body lift effecting anything else. You guys sure jumped all over this guy.
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No not really. His first post clearly stated that he felt a 6in suspension lift on top of a 3in body lift would warrant a driveshaft adjustment based on 9 inches of lift. In fact he went on to say it again in his second post. Hence my original post of not being sure if he was serious. Then he just completely rubbed me the wrong way by getting his back completely up in the air.

So in the words of the piano man. We didnt start the fire.



no you're good doing 9 inch lift without getting a extended drive shaft
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So I have a 1993 chevy k1500 with ifs an I got a 3 inch body lift on it an I was thinking of either putting a 4 or 6 inch lift on it. I wanna do the 6 inch an be 9 inches total an run 37x14.5x15 tires but will I have to get longer drive shafts
Click to expand...
 
321countryboy said:
yeah I upgraded the rear end to a 14 bolt semi float and im prolly gonna do 4.56 gears thanks for the help though guys.
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Your gaining credit now :waytogo: A great upgrade ditching the 10 bolt, the 9.5" 14 bolt will hold up all day long with the 37's.

From experience with 4.56's and running both 35's and 38's I would go with 4.88's at a minimum and even lower if more offroad driving. Also ditch the G80 (if you have it) for a good locker.

I ran the 35's and 4.56 when my truck was a DD with a well working 350 and for the most part was happy but when I started playing off road more I wanted lower. The 4.56's and 38's was back to being doggy, now with the 1 tons and 5.38 gears and 38's it works great offroad.

Take a look at my thread here
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=314064
 
Stomis said:
No not really. His first post clearly stated that he felt a 6in suspension lift on top of a 3in body lift would warrant a driveshaft adjustment based on 9 inches of lift. In fact he went on to say it again in his second post. Hence my original post of not being sure if he was serious. Then he just completely rubbed me the wrong way by getting his back completely up in the air.

So in the words of the piano man. We didnt start the fire.
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I didn't get that from his original post at all. Now, your quote from his second post, I missed that one.:doah:
 
Ya I do unfortunately have the g80 14 bolt so when I do gears I will prolly put a locker in there especially since my gears right now are only 3.42's :doah:
 
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