driveability issues with a locker?

[58 apache]

thanks for all the input... im a little older guy and have had alot of experiance driving both muscle cars and hot rods. i understand the concept of understeer and also grew up in erie pa with lots of snow.i'm sure i can adjust...so it seems relativly easy to install one of these from what i've found, is this true? this 14bff has 4.56 do i get a locker specific to this or are they all the same? is it safe to buy a used locker? what do i look for? thanks again, eric

 

[JEBSR]

58 APACHE, that avatar is frigging awesome.

 

[Smitty]

I'm running lockers in my K5, my '56, and my 1031 (specs in sig). For some strange reason they both act totally different. Aside from the added traction, the only time I notice the locker in the '56 and the 1031 is when I'm leaving a stop into a sharp turn. The K5 reacts everytime I vary the throttle. It will pull to one side or the other as I'm going down the road and can make the driving a little scary if I'm in heavy traffic.

There might be something else causing the problem in the K5, but it didn't show itself until I put the locker in the rear.

 

[fireplug]

I'm running lockers in my K5, my '56, and my 1031 (specs in sig). For some strange reason they both act totally different. Aside from the added traction, the only time I notice the locker in the '56 and the 1031 is when I'm leaving a stop into a sharp turn. The K5 reacts everytime I vary the throttle. It will pull to one side or the other as I'm going down the road and can make the driving a little scary if I'm in heavy traffic.

There might be something else causing the problem in the K5, but it didn't show itself until I put the locker in the rear.

I'm sure weight dispersion will have a lot to do with that. As well as length, of the vehicle. I've found the same thing between my Burb and Blazer, definitely more noticeable with the Blazer.

 

[Ned Kelly]

I've got a Detroit in my K30 for 17yrs now. Only if it's icy on the highway, that's when I get the rear wanting to drift out. But like someone said, first time scarey, then you get used to it. Just ease up on the throttle and and slight counter steer and all is good. Not bad at all.

Now that the ARB is available, I think I would get that for the 14ff. The money you will save on rear tire wear (if you plan to drive alot on pavement, especially with larger more expensive tires) will pay for the higher cost of the ARB the first time you replace those tires (39.5" TSL's in my case). Also, you won't have to deal with the on road quirks of the Detroit. Again, the quirks aren't that bad.

 

[87BrnRsd]

Now that the ARB is available, I think I would get that for the 14ff. The money you will save on rear tire wear (if you plan to drive alot on pavement, especially with larger more expensive tires) will pay for the higher cost of the ARB the first time you replace those tires (39.5" TSL's in my case). Also, you won't have to deal with the on road quirks of the Detroit. Again, the quirks aren't that bad.

I just cant justify the cost of the arb. Not even just that, the locker is expensive, then the air tank is expensive, and the design seems fragile. Not the locker itself, but the whole air system seems fragile to me. I know the number one thing ive heard on the trail from people with arb's is "hey...are both wheels spinning" Often they arent because something happens with the air line. When I go to hit something with my detroit, I absolutely know for sure that it is in fact locked.
-Harrison

 

[Leper]

Lock-rites are a totally different animal and generally have worse manners than a detroit. You will get used to a detroit very fast and it is really no big deal

Agreed.

 

[Ned Kelly]

I know the number one thing ive heard on the trail from people with arb's is "hey...are both wheels spinning" Often they arent because something happens with the air line. When I go to hit something with my detroit, I absolutely know for sure that it is in fact locked.

-Harrison

I'll take your word for it. I don't know anyone with an ARB. Your right, a Detroit will die before it lets two tires on the same axle turn at different speeds.

 

[58 apache]

so do i have to get a detroit specific for my carrier? or are they all the same? and can gm gears withstand a locker or do i need to look at upgrading gears?

 

[Smitty]

so do i have to get a detroit specific for my carrier? or are they all the same? and can gm gears withstand a locker or do i need to look at upgrading gears?

You need to start with a 14bff that has an open carrier. The Detroit will be specific to the 14bff and is real easy to install. I've never had a problem with the gears in any of mine and I'd guess there wouldn't be any need to change them on your install. If your 14bff has a military history (4.56 gears...) you might want to make sure it isn't already loaded with a Detroit.

 

[k20]

I got a lock-rite in my 14ff. I drive the thing everyday, and I will say first time pulling out of the driveway, bang, clunk, shimmy, clang. I thought I had just seriously screwed up. Its worn in a little, and Ive gotten to where I dont hardly notice it (except in the rain on offramps). Other people get in the truck and they hear tire chirp and ratcheting noises and start freaking out.

Then I have to explain to em what is going on. In the rain you just have to be more gentle with the gas. Its VERY rare to get snow here, I think its snowed once since Ive had my truck (well, that Ive had my truck and it wasnt torn apart lol), so I cant comment on snow/ice.

The traction is alot better on the street and in the mud. I can actually give it gas off the line now without just boiling the tires, I can get it about halfway to the floor instead of 1/3 of the way down lol.

 

[58 apache]

You need to start with a 14bff that has an open carrier. The Detroit will be specific to the 14bff and is real easy to install. I've never had a problem with the gears in any of mine and I'd guess there wouldn't be any need to change them on your install. If your 14bff has a military history (4.56 gears...) you might want to make sure it isn't already loaded with a Detroit.

no locker 4.56 and i assume an open carrier? so i get a locker for a 14bff 4.56 carrier?

 

[Drey]

What would be better road manners a Detroit or a welded rear end. The rear end Im throwing under my truck is welded already, although It will be goin from 4.10 to 4.88 gears, so a swap could be done then.

 

[bowtiepower00]

I think the trans has a lot to do with things, too. My rig has a Detroit and a SM465, and you can definately tell the locker is back there. It's not all that bad under normal conditions. It does pop and bang, it does pull you from side to side when going from a coast to drive situation and vice versa. It does squawk the AT's when going around a corner, especially if you really get on it. You know it's there, but with a Detroit, you never have to worry about failure. If it fails, you've got a lot bigger problems than that.

Welded/ Spool? For a trail only rig, no problem. You would lose the torque steer of the locking and unlocking, but they would never unlock. With a locker, you can coast and turn tight without pushing. When you're trying to fit a fullsize into a tight parking spot, you need every bit of help you can get. My truck doesn't like to turn when that Detroit is locked, and pushing the clutch in just leads to popping and bucking, etc., not to mention sudden oversteer.

 

[Smitty]

no locker 4.56 and i assume an open carrier? so i get a locker for a 14bff 4.56 carrier?

Just look for one to fit a 14bff. Part number on mine was # DET225S10 and cost around $380 last year. It took me around an hour to install the last one.

 

[87BrnRsd]

What would be better road manners a Detroit or a welded rear end. The rear end Im throwing under my truck is welded already, although It will be goin from 4.10 to 4.88 gears, so a swap could be done then.

Detroit for sure. A welded rear end = tires chirping around every corner.
-Harrison