Driver side Power window stuck down...Raining

[Arizona 85 K5]

I'm in the middle of restoring my 85 K5. A month ago I finished the door panels, seals, regulators, motors and switches. all has been great, working perfectly. Until today, rolled down the window and when I went to roll it back up...no go. Passenger window works fine Locks fine power good, switch good can hear a faint click(i assume from the motor) when I toggle up or down.
Took off panel, looked around, all looks ok. Loosened regulator mount bolts in case of binding, shook everything around, can't see anything out of place.

I want to pull out the regulator/motor (assuming it's a bad motor) but I don't think that's possible with the window down. not looking forward to pulling all my new felts, vent window, etc to get to it, even if I can??

Bottom line...If I can't raise the window, I can't get it off the track.

If I can't remove the window, I can't get the regulator out.This had to have happened before...right...there is a fix...RIGHT??

Please Help..it's raining, and I can't drive with a tarp flapping down the side of my Blazer.

Thank You

 

[brokenparts]

You should be able to unbolt the regulator from the door frame. If you can, then just push the window plus the reg motor up as a whole. Hopefully this give you enough room to unbolt the motor. After you get the motor free the you should be able to inch the regulator off the track.

 

[Arizona 85 K5]

OK, Soooo, Visualizing now, since its dark out and still raining.

To be able to lift entire assy up I will have to remove the vent window assy and track first, and hopefully not ruin my new felts in the process.

Then if I get it up high enough to remove the motor from the regulator, the second I do that the spring tension will release then BOOM BANG CRASH the regulator slams into the bottom of the door or the window slams upward, worst case scenario, the window shatters and I leave body parts behind. I may be overstating that a little, but the concern is real and I need to be prepared. How should I prepare to avoid this possibility?

I still hold out hope that when I loosen the vent window assy and pop the regulator from the mounting where everything is loose and sloppy I will try the motor again and it will work (went down too far and bound up) we shall see. If it doesn't work could someone let me know what to expect when I remove the motor as described above?

Thank you, Bob

Oh, and by the way, I love the site and will be posting past and future photos of my project as soon as I get dry

 

[Arizona 85 K5]

Well, turns out we're not going to learn much from this one after all,
Went out to start investigating, and , like magic it worked. Maybe when i closed the door last night with the regulator bolts loose it un-bound itself, COOL!!
I'm going to put some kind of rubber bumper at the bottom to keep it from going down too far (if that's what it was) hope it doesn't happen again.
Thanks for your response "Broken".

 

[brokenparts]

Glad it worked out. Mine is currently is stuck in the "up" position... waiting on LMC for my new regulator and motor.

 

[Blue85]

They do have a safety device that cuts the motor when current gets too high. This takes some time to self-reset. Sometimes on older motors this thing trips way too soon, so it's nice to bypass them, actually. Just don't roll it up on your neck.

There is no need to remove the vent window or tracks to get a motor out. The only exception I can think of is if the window itself is truly wedged in place, but normally it's just the motor/gear unit that's not moving. Once you unbolt the regulator assembly from the door, you can flip it around until you can get the little rollers out of the tracks. At that point you should be able to push the window up and down manually by hand and then fish the motor/regulator out. But it does suck working with your arm jammed through the sheet metal.

 

[brokenparts]

They do have a safety device that cuts the motor when current gets too high. This takes some time to self-reset. Sometimes on older motors this thing trips way too soon, so it's nice to bypass them, actually. Just don't roll it up on your neck.

There is no need to remove the vent window or tracks to get a motor out. The only exception I can think of is if the window itself is truly wedged in place, but normally it's just the motor/gear unit that's not moving. Once you unbolt the regulator assembly from the door, you can flip it around until you can get the little rollers out of the tracks. At that point you should be able to push the window up and down manually by hand and then fish the motor/regulator out. But it does suck working with your arm jammed through the sheet metal.

Would you mind telling me about the reset process and/or the bypass? I pulled my regulator/motor out to test it outside the door frame. I used a powerprobe to run power directly from the battery to the motor to bypass the switch completely.

From what I could tell was that the motor was getting kinda bound up if I let the window "top out" at the top and would not go back down. If I unbolted the motor from the regulator and flexed the regulator a bit and re-installed the motor... it would go back down.

 

[Blue85]

There is no reset procedure - you just have to wait. As for bypass, you have to disassemble the motor and find the PTC on one of the power pins, then solder across it or something. Sometimes as they age, the PTC starts to drop voltage which slows the motor down and also makes it trip. Cutting out is the only external indicator that the problem is an old PTC and not just a worn motor.