Driver's Door Hinge

[mudbuggy]

I have problems, my door sags, sags is an understatement, my door is sinking, no scratch that my door is sunk. I found this thing in a corn field where it sat for an extended amount of time (3 years). When I got it, I was really impressed with it. I am still impressed, just ready for the springtime to get here. I have an 89 V1500 and I was wondering how much of a bitch is it to get the front fender off to replace the door hinge? I know there is a kit for the pins and bushings, but someone with superior hillbilly skills decieded to bubble gum weld the pins in the hinge! Other then a torch I have no way to remove the pins, so on to plan B, removing the fender to do this! Am I missing something or is that the only way to get the hinge out?

Don't get me wrong the door works, just doesn't seal, it does close and I don't have to use a bungy cord to keep it closed. I'm just trying to get all of my ducks in a row so when the weather breaks I can high speed, low drag on this dude before it gets stupid hot!

Thanks

 

[tRustyK5]

Yeah, you're going to have to remove the fender. I'm not sure if you already know but there is one bolt that has to be removed from the inside, and it is a metric bitch to get to. The access hole is up under the dash area, and it's just large enough for a deepwell socket to fit.

Definitely scribe some reference marks around the old hinge before removing any bolts.

Rene

 

[mudbuggy]

What kind of time am I looking at doing the hinges, from tear down to putting the last bolt in without air tools? Any ideas, an afternoon or a weekend?

Thanks

 

[tRustyK5]

If the fenders come off somewhat easy it's a Saturday job...but that can be a big "if". I've had them come off easy, and I've had them where almost ever bolt breaks, or the captured nuts spin. It can be easier to remove the whole front clip in one piece, but you'll need a buddy or two to help lift it off. It just depends on rusty bolt issues and stuff.

Pre-soaking everything with PB blaster will help a lot.

Rene

 

[dhcomp]

Wait, an 89, as in 90's IFS style truck?

Really doubt you need new hinges. Possible, but i'd guess the hinge pin bushings are shot.

Get spring tool, compress door spring, remove, pound out hinge pins, bushings.

Press in new brass bushings with channel lock pliers. Install new hinge pins.

Done.

 

[mudbuggy]

really wish I could but someone hillbillied the pins in with some bubblegum welds on the top of the hinges!!! The only tool I have that is capable to get through those globs is a torch. I'm not cooking the paint off of all that stuff, I'll pull the fender thank you. If I think about it I'll get a pic 89 solid axle v1500

 

[imiceman44]

What kind of time am I looking at doing the hinges, from tear down to putting the last bolt in without air tools? Any ideas, an afternoon or a weekend?

Thanks

Yeah you have a V1500 blazer which means it's a solid axle.
Dhcomp confused it with a K1500 which would be a IFS truck.
TrustyK5 got it pretty good except I could do it in a few hours but it's because I am always parting trucks and have parts on hand.
I will see if I have any real tight hinges that I could send your way.

 

[dhcomp]

Yeah you have a V1500 blazer which means it's a solid axle.
Dhcomp confused it with a K1500 which would be a IFS truck.
TrustyK5 got it pretty good except I could do it in a few hours but it's because I am always parting trucks and have parts on hand.
I will see if I have any real tight hinges that I could send your way.

Yep, my bad. He didn't mention Blazer anywhere, and everyone screws up the v1500 vs k1500, so i never rely on that to identify stuff.

 

[mudbuggy]

I am hoping that the weather will break in the next few weeks, I'm tired of turning up the radio because of the bad seal around the door caused by it not sealing.
I ordered the hinges last night, since the rear barn door latch popped off, I ordered that too!
Thanks for the offer!

 

[Fordum]

Here is a thought. Bear in mind, you are looking at it, I'm maybe a thousand miles away.
Do you have a Dremel tool, or any kind of small grinder? Or maybe borrow one.
I am thinking of reaching in, grinding off the weld to the point where you can get the pins out.
With the pins out and the door off, you could reach in, mark the body half of the hinge and then take it off.
Do the same thing with the door side, and then see if they are salvageable.
Maybe grind the weld down smooth and redrill the holes so the bushings fit again.

Or split the new hinges, put the halves back where the original ones were and get someone to hold the door while you put the pins back in.

All this from someone who has never done a chevy door in his life. I am assuming that the hinge bolts are accessible once the door is off.

You folks who have done them, chime in if I'm not making sense.

 

[rjfguitar]

First I would do the door wiggle test. You stand behind the door, grab it at the bottom and top, and give it a good wiggle. If you have play that you can feel, it will be in the pins and bushings. If the door is tight, either the hinges have moved or the door striker is messed up. I've rebuilt the doors on both my 80's Chevys and a combo of new pins/bushings combined with a NEW striker and the result is doors that work like new again. A lot of times, when the pins/bushings are out it tears up the top of the striker, thats part of the problem right there.