Driveshaft angles

[86gmcjimmy32]

Hey guys I got the cucv 14 bolt and Dana 60 Axles under the k5 but have some questions about driveshaft angles. I’m running a slip yoke eliminator so a cv shaft is in order. I understand that this will require my pinion to be pointed directly at the transfer case or a degree or 2 below. I have the rear all mocked up by eye at the moment and it appears I do have it within that range but how can I use an angle finder to make sure. The transfer case should be at about 0 degrees but how do I know what angle to put the rear pinion to? Does everyone just eyeball these? And how about the front axle pinion angle? The K5 is lifted 7” and this caused the front to point nowhere near the transfer case? Should I just leave it the same so I don’t affect caster? Or should I shim it?

 

[Bent77]

I use my phone these days. The angle finder is easier to read, just as repeatable, and will figure the difference for you. But get out a piece of paper and doodle along with the class. That’s makes it easier for you to reference later and not make a mistake

The front is a mess on lifted trucks. More lift equals more mess. There are solutions, none of which are cheap or easy:

1. Add a doubler if you need more reduction. Pushes the case back ~10” making the front angle better (makes the back worse though)

2. Some people use shims, but that changes the steering and can add death wobble. The solution there is to remove the outer C assembly and rotate the housing to point at the case similar to what you do for the rear. Then set the C so that all of the steering geometry works properly

3. High Pinion. This is the best option as it raises the front joint 6” or so. Really it is the solution to the problem, where other things are a bandaid for the side effects

 

[JoshHefnerX]

I had a magnetic angle finder, but a phone works too. I measured the driveshaft - at say 12deg. I put the anglefinder on the diff housing looked for that same 12deg, and then went 2 deg down from there - and tacked it in.

 

[86gmcjimmy32]

I had a magnetic angle finder, but a phone works too. I measured the driveshaft - at say 12deg. I put the anglefinder on the diff housing looked for that same 12deg, and then went 2 deg down from there - and tacked it in.

Problem is I don’t have the drive shaft yet. I understand how to do it with one but not how to do it without it. I have a guy building a drive shaft for me right now for the way I have it set up at the moment. I’m hoping I have it close enough that if I do have to change the angle it won’t affect length enough to have to have it shortened or lengthened.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

You can use a laser pointer or a big stick to point to the output stub on the trans to get you ballparked if you're not opposed to using a small shim to get it in fine.

 

[AJs72K5]

Use the yokes on both the transfer case and the diff. If you picture it like a right triangle, with the driveshaft being the hypotenuse, the sum of the transfer case yoke angle and diff yoke angle should equal 90*. Then adjust the diff down the extra 1-2* you need.