Nah it's an open diff, or a broken locker lol, but I'm almost 99% sure it's just an original open rear cause it has never locked up on me.
CK5
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Driveshaft "binding" heavy vibration under hard acceleration
- Thread starter 76k5blazerr
- Start date
Ok so I just checked out everything and it doesn't appear that the axle is moving inside the ubolts but I did see what I think are signs that the axle might be moving a little on the leaf springs because there looked to be what I thought was disturbance in the dust/dirt on the leaf springs. Also the bushongs look pretty dry rotted and old. What do you think?
Dabba
1/2 ton status
Can you take pictures?
Yah I'll try to get some up on photobucket tomorrow.
Do you have someone that could help you for a second?
Have you or the other person do an almost brake stand. Not actually enough gas pedal to spin the tires, but enough to apply some power to the axle, with the brake pedal pushed in.
Have you or the other person looking at the underside (no dont lay under the truck lol). Get on the gas and off a couple times, see if anything appears to move or angle up down, clunk etc.
Have you or the other person do an almost brake stand. Not actually enough gas pedal to spin the tires, but enough to apply some power to the axle, with the brake pedal pushed in.
Have you or the other person looking at the underside (no dont lay under the truck lol). Get on the gas and off a couple times, see if anything appears to move or angle up down, clunk etc.
Alright guys I ordered new rear leaf spring mount bushings and shackle bushings today, the complete set, as well as new rear axle u bolts. Really hoping they come by Saturday so I can throw them on then. The axle hop thing seems like it is steadily getting worse, like it has been for the last couple months but now it happens a lot more often. You guys think these new parts will fix the problem? And what's the best way to go about replacing this stuff? I was thinking jackstands under the frame in the back and more stands under the axle then is it better to drop the axle off the springs or unbolt the springs and drop the entire contraption? Any tips/pointers on replacing those bushings? U bolts? Torque specs?
Anybody?
There are several ways, but here's how I do it (assuming springs with no military wrap and OE-type rubber bushings):
Lift vehicle by jacking up differential > Place jackstands under frame and let off jack until frame is on the stands, but keep a little tension on the springs > remove u-bolts (one side at a time if you wish) and then let off the jack until the spring unloads and the axle drops off the spring center pin. > remove bolts to remove springs > Drill 6 or 8 thru-holes in the old spring eye bushing rubber to relieve some tension in the bushing. > Drive out the bushing center sleeve > The outer steel bushing sleeve can be cut using a hacksaw or die grinder in the slot where the main leaf wraps around the sleeve and back onto itself (careful not to damage the spring itself) > Once the outer sleeve is cut, just use screw drivers or whatever you can to start folding it in on itself until jou can drive it out of the spring eye.
Installation is straightforward, and a piece of cake if putting poly bushings in it. U-bolt torque is a controversial topic. Some say all you can get, some say around 150 ft-lbs. Either way, check them frequently after you install them and retorque several times, driving for a day or two in between. Do this until they no longer need to be re-torqued after driving.
Lift vehicle by jacking up differential > Place jackstands under frame and let off jack until frame is on the stands, but keep a little tension on the springs > remove u-bolts (one side at a time if you wish) and then let off the jack until the spring unloads and the axle drops off the spring center pin. > remove bolts to remove springs > Drill 6 or 8 thru-holes in the old spring eye bushing rubber to relieve some tension in the bushing. > Drive out the bushing center sleeve > The outer steel bushing sleeve can be cut using a hacksaw or die grinder in the slot where the main leaf wraps around the sleeve and back onto itself (careful not to damage the spring itself) > Once the outer sleeve is cut, just use screw drivers or whatever you can to start folding it in on itself until jou can drive it out of the spring eye.
Installation is straightforward, and a piece of cake if putting poly bushings in it. U-bolt torque is a controversial topic. Some say all you can get, some say around 150 ft-lbs. Either way, check them frequently after you install them and retorque several times, driving for a day or two in between. Do this until they no longer need to be re-torqued after driving.
^^ this is good info and I would suggest soaking every bolt in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench the day before. Secondly I have found the easiest way to remove the rubber bushings is with a propane or MAPP torch, let them burn good and then they'll fall right out.
