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Driveshaft education

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centexk5

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Next year I need to address my driveshafts. The rear is at a nasty angle at the transfer case and the front is just beat to snot and worn out. Front I don’t have many questions on as I’m just going to have a new one built with a slightly longer slip joint on it but the rear I’ve got questions.

Current setup is a slip joint at the t-case and 1410 u-joints at the transfer case and a 1350/1410 u-joint at the axle. What would be the benefits of going with a slip yoke eliminator? My thoughts are to do a cv at the transfer case with a slip yoke but is that the right way to go?

I’m stupid when it comes to these things so feel free to call me as such. Trying to do some reading and learning but it’s just something I’ve never had to mess with outside of changing u-joints.
 
the SYE seals the t case to itself and not the drive shaft. So if you drive like me and break drive shafts, you can run on the front without the t case peeing out it's butt

Shortens the t case by about 4-6" which also helps the driveline angle a bit

To me the best benefit is having the support at the output using a SYE, since the CV is closer to the bearing than on a SY design
 
Definitely interested in helping the angles. I don’t want to drop the transfer case and sacrifice the ground clearance or screw with the front driveshaft angles.
 
If you are going to have a shaft built for the rear, is there any reason not to eliminate the wonky hybrid u-joints? Either 1350 all the way or 1410 all the way. Cuts down on spare parts you need to carry.
I agree with the SYE to a double-cardon CV shaft plan. Just remember that this will require you to rotate your rear axle to a new pinion angle.
 
Theres a ton of information for you to read on the tom woods website under tech articles.
 
I’ll convert it to one type of u-joint. The hybrid is because the new yoke was a 1350 and the driveshaft was 1410. It’s one of the reasons I’m looking at getting a new one.

@obijuank5 I’ve spent some time reading those articles. Just lots to digest.
 
Cliff notes.
Cv rear shaft has the pinion pointed at the tcase and then down 2 degrees ish for wrap.
 
Bringing this back to the top. I've spoken to Tom Woods and Full Torque for driveshafts. Both tell me that ideally a SYE is the best way to go but it can be done with a slip yoke. I understand why the SYE is recommended but that's another several hundred dollars to tack on. Would it really be worth it? Anyone done a CV with a slip yoke for a rear driveshaft?
 
centexk5 said:
Bringing this back to the top. I've spoken to Tom Woods and Full Torque for driveshafts. Both tell me that ideally a SYE is the best way to go but it can be done with a slip yoke. I understand why the SYE is recommended but that's another several hundred dollars to tack on. Would it really be worth it? Anyone done a CV with a slip yoke for a rear driveshaft?
Click to expand...
I've got a slip yoke cv on mine. 5 years and counting on it.

Here's the issue. Like others have said, the SYE is more ideal. I had to really stress the details to get the driveshaft angle right. The goofy slip/cv shaft ran me a few hundred through a Denver driveshaft shop. Now if I want to do a SYE I'll have that cost plus reconfiguring my driveshaft to have a slip section and add length.

What I'm saying is it totally can be done and as long as mine works like this I am not in a hurry to change it. I would do some research on the cost of a non-cv shaft with changing to a SYE vs a cv yoke shaft alone. Hindsight being what it is I probably would have been money ahead going the SYE route up front and just getting it over with.
 
I also have a slip yoke CV from Tom Woods, 1350’s all the way back. I don’t wheel mine hard, just some mountain roads and daily. If I had it in the budget and one was available when I rebuilt my t case I would have installed a SYE, but no regrets everything works well.
With a 4” lift and a 14 bolt in the rear, I used 8 degree shims.
Tremec has a cool app that you can use your phone to record your current angles, then you can speak with the driveshaft mfg. to verify what shim you’ll want to use.
 
I daily drove my slip yoke 1350 cv on my 6" blazer for a couple years. Took three cv rebuilds. 60 miles daily and up while I was in college.
Getting the longer driveshaft is ideal to sneak out a few more degrees and ease up on that constant angle.
 
The rear angle doesn,t look that far off for a double cardon at the transfer case. You might have a problem with your exhaust, as the yoke needs to go in about an inch.
 
I agree the angle is pretty close for a cv as it sits at the rear, but I wouldn't drive very far with it like that currently.
 
dont forget to look at the MAX working angles of each size of u-joint .

i know a 1310 takes more than a 1350
and a 1410 takes more than both 1310 and 1350 .

so before you pick any size do the math and also the longer the better .

if on a budget grab a 99-up front f-250 / f-350 superduty shaft and mid 2006up is better design . there 1350 all joints and c/v head . get the fixed yoke flange to match and make the shaft fit for length and run it . i did it on a blazer build and smooth as glass to 90+mph on 37" radial tires .
 
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