ion
1/2 ton status
And you would personally hate your rig
not really
the square shaft wasn't that bad at all. got a little vibration when in 4wd at 35+ other than that I ran it on every run with a welded front end.CK5
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Driveshaft idea. (really bad paint drawing)
- Thread starter 85 Jimmy
- Start date
not really
the square shaft wasn't that bad at all. got a little vibration when in 4wd at 35+ other than that I ran it on every run with a welded front end.
mr250twostroke
1/2 ton status
The real problem with 4 spline drive shafts is the bind created from loading them up hard. It's not as bad in a front application but due to only having 4 splines vs. 18 or 20? of a normal slip the load on each spline area is enough to lock the shaft up and keep it from extending or collapsing.
Rear applications have issues with them breaking transmissions, fronts are just annoying cause 35 is too slow.
Rear applications have issues with them breaking transmissions, fronts are just annoying cause 35 is too slow.
Koh racing is not what he has in mind i dont think...... 35mph fpr most offroad is pretty quick.
35mph is slow even for an average trail truck. The trails are just a small part of it, what about access roads, distance from the nearest parking area etc.
It's not uncommon for me to see 15 miles of road that even the average truck is going 35+ on just to do a 5 mile or less trail, and while 4wheel drive isn't always needed there are parts that it is so you always have the hubs locked and thus the front shaft turning.
Honestly to each there own but the simple physics behind a 4spline shaft are enough to not want to use them. They are a quick and dirty solution that can end up costing you more than it's worth. Go back and look at Baddogs sagga of broken transmissions after he linked the rear of his rig. 4spline shafts at work.
It's not uncommon for me to see 15 miles of road that even the average truck is going 35+ on just to do a 5 mile or less trail, and while 4wheel drive isn't always needed there are parts that it is so you always have the hubs locked and thus the front shaft turning.
Honestly to each there own but the simple physics behind a 4spline shaft are enough to not want to use them. They are a quick and dirty solution that can end up costing you more than it's worth. Go back and look at Baddogs sagga of broken transmissions after he linked the rear of his rig. 4spline shafts at work.
There are other techniques to get a round item welded back together reasonably straight.
You can use angle iron as a guide.
If you have access to any machine equipment, there are a number of ways to use that kind of equipment. Quality machine vises and things of that nature. Sleeving it will work good if it fits tight, however, you still would need something like the angle iron for best results.
You need something to hold it straight that isn't going to be heated when its being welded.
You can use angle iron as a guide.
If you have access to any machine equipment, there are a number of ways to use that kind of equipment. Quality machine vises and things of that nature. Sleeving it will work good if it fits tight, however, you still would need something like the angle iron for best results.
You need something to hold it straight that isn't going to be heated when its being welded.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
I think my front square d-shaft works really well.
I've gone 55mph with it with the hubs locked.
Sure it was scary at that speed, but not more than can be expected with unbalanced 42" bias-tires
And 56" springs with really long shackles...
I don't think I noticed any imbalance i can blame the d-shaft for though
Just take care to get the yokes well centered in the tubes.
I see that it could be more difficult to get proper balance in a rear shaft though, since it's longer.
But in the rear you seldom need that kind of slip anyway.
If we were to calculate the difference in strength between a regular splined shaft and a square one, I don't think there would be much difference
I admit the square shaft doesn't have an optimal mating surface since it isn't parallel to the radius of the shaft like a regular shaft.
But I think it makes up for it with it's longer mating surface.
But I agree that the greater mating surface, can make it more prone to binding.
But I think it works well as long as you have a proper play between the tubes, and most importantly don't over lubricate it
To much grease adds drag between the tubes.
So never install grease zerks, take it apart now and then instead, and clean it and apply a thin layer of grease.
Then push it in and out a few times, to make sure there's minimal drag.
If driving in winter, consider using a synthetic grease, so it wont get as thick.
I've gone 55mph with it with the hubs locked.
Sure it was scary at that speed, but not more than can be expected with unbalanced 42" bias-tires
And 56" springs with really long shackles...
I don't think I noticed any imbalance i can blame the d-shaft for though
Just take care to get the yokes well centered in the tubes.
I see that it could be more difficult to get proper balance in a rear shaft though, since it's longer.
But in the rear you seldom need that kind of slip anyway.
If we were to calculate the difference in strength between a regular splined shaft and a square one, I don't think there would be much difference
I admit the square shaft doesn't have an optimal mating surface since it isn't parallel to the radius of the shaft like a regular shaft.
But I think it makes up for it with it's longer mating surface.
But I agree that the greater mating surface, can make it more prone to binding.
But I think it works well as long as you have a proper play between the tubes, and most importantly don't over lubricate it
To much grease adds drag between the tubes.
So never install grease zerks, take it apart now and then instead, and clean it and apply a thin layer of grease.
Then push it in and out a few times, to make sure there's minimal drag.
If driving in winter, consider using a synthetic grease, so it wont get as thick.
I think my front square d-shaft works really well.
I've gone 55mph with it with the hubs locked.
Sure it was scary at that speed, but not more than can be expected with unbalanced 42" bias-tires
And 56" springs with really long shackles...
I don't think I noticed any imbalance i can blame the d-shaft for though
Just take care to get the yokes well centered in the tubes.
I see that it could be more difficult to get proper balance in a rear shaft though, since it's longer.
But in the rear you seldom need that kind of slip anyway.
If we were to calculate the difference in strength between a regular splined shaft and a square one, I don't think there would be much difference
I admit the square shaft doesn't have an optimal mating surface since it isn't parallel to the radius of the shaft like a regular shaft.
But I think it makes up for it with it's longer mating surface.
But I agree that the greater mating surface, can make it more prone to binding.
But I think it works well as long as you have a proper play between the tubes, and most importantly don't over lubricate it
To much grease adds drag between the tubes.
So never install grease zerks, take it apart now and then instead, and clean it and apply a thin layer of grease.
Then push it in and out a few times, to make sure there's minimal drag.
If driving in winter, consider using a synthetic grease, so it wont get as thick.
The vehicle speed issue is the balance. And just to give you a little frame of mind I have gone 102MPH with unbalanced 42" tires, and it really wasn't all that scary either.
The point I'm trying to get across is the fact that a 4spline/square shaft binds up due to load. There isn't enough surface area to spread the load out on the splines to they bind.
I can see the validity in having them as a cheap trail spare option but IMO setting about running one long term is a bit off.
This was my first year using a square front, and I have to say I am going back to round. My yokes are welded in square, and it slips well, but it still vibrates, and it is very heavy. Both my pinion and output of my case have begun to leak. I attribute this to the heavy unbalanced shaft wearing the seals at a faster rate. I will keep it as a spare for sure as it works well and is very strong, but I will spend the $$ to get my long spline round re welded for sure.
Just my .02
To the OP just hit the junk yard or the scrap yard for a driveshaft with a longer tube. Use a new piece instead of splicing. I have spliced them before with success, but it does take some work to get it straight.
Just my .02
To the OP just hit the junk yard or the scrap yard for a driveshaft with a longer tube. Use a new piece instead of splicing. I have spliced them before with success, but it does take some work to get it straight.
Local driveshaft shops are really not that pricey. Just sayin. Sounds like lots of screwin around. Maybe try one as a spare
I just re tubed my rear d line. Cost me $80 for 26" of 3" .120 dom. Local d line shop wanted $160 to retube it with. 090 "drive line tubing" Just go pick up some round so it's done right.
