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Driveshaft Opinions please.

Which driveline

  • Stock 1310 with conversion joint.

    Votes: 1 9.1%
  • HAD drive flange / super duty shaft.

    Votes: 5 45.5%
  • 1310 CV / JE Reel Flange / conversion joint.

    Votes: 2 18.2%
  • I dream about nekkid shafts and peanut butter..........

    Votes: 3 27.3%

  • Total voters
    11

chalet2506

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Skeddadlin
Now that I'm getting really close to getting the Chalet back together, I need to do something about a reardriveshaft. I'm going from a stock height truck with a th350/np203/12 bolt to a 4-6" lift(6" if you add the springs and blocks, but the camper sag offsets some of that) th350/np205/14bff. np205 is a 1310 fixed yoke right now. I'd like to just order the 1350 flange and cv shaft from HAD, just don't have the cash right now. Plus, I'd like to run the truck for a while to see how things work before I start investing that kind of money in it again.

1. I could probably use my old rear driveshaft, have a shop add some length, and a conversion joint at the 14bff. Probably be the cheapest route, but I worry about the angle. Also, since I'm running 3/4 tons and 37's I'd like a better driveline in the rear. Total cost about $80

2. Could buy one of Jesse's 1350 flanges, find a superduty shaft for $150ish, then pay to have it sized. Total cost around $350

3. Or, I've got a never used front 1310 cv shaft given to me by a buddy who had it built for a k10 project and then didn't use it. Has the flange to mount to a np241. Could buy this flange built by JE Reel for the 205, have this shaft lengthened, run a conversion joint, and when it wears out or goes boom upgrade to one of HAD's 1350 CV's. Total Cost about $200

Kind of like the third option. I've spent a lot more money lately than I wanted, and it seems the best way to start upgrading now, and gives me the option to bolt on a larger shaft down the line as needed. Looking for some input though.
 
i got lucky with my 400 205 and ~5-6 inches with a 14bolt my superduty shaft fit RIGHT in.
ive got an ord flip in the 52s position with tired 56's, two add-a-leafs and a 7 inch shackle and a zero rate.


heres how it sits with 37s
DSC_0159.jpg


DSC_0140.jpg


DSC_0141.jpg
 
I didn't realize they were that long, I'll have to check the junkyard down the road.
 
$220 at the local yard for one pulled out of 2002 f250 4x4 7.3 and 80k miles. Looked around on the intraweb and that seems reasonable. Still might have to have the length adjusted plus the flange cost. Would put me around $400.
 
I need to get pics of my driveshaft. Its like option 3. I had spare drivelines out of a 78 parts blazer. SYE'd the 208 with dodge parts so I was able to bolt on a front flange. The driveshaft shop took both shafts, bought a CV weld yokefor the 2&3/4??? rear tube, shortened it, rebuilt the CV and installed a conversion joint, and balanced for $175. I think I could have bolted in a front shaft from a 700r4 equipped truck but didnt have a spare so I never measured carefully.

Your 205 is fixed yoke right? Didn't I read about a special output seal to use 208/241 falanges and yokes or am I halucinating.

I know a chalet is considerably heavier than my 85(4" lift with 10 bolts for now) but it has held up for several thousand miles now. It didnt rub the CV stops at rest but I ground them down so there would be no issues later. If you have a rebuilt shaft and the splines are good, then it would only costas much as labor and tube. If you want, I can get pics up but I think my dribble gives you an idea
Kenny
 
I will tell you from what I know , if you actually wheel ( I don't think a Chalet will do hardcore rockcrawling with the camper LOL ) your going to go through a couple CV shafts in several years , mostly rebuilding the CV end .

I got tired of fixing them ( flex and rock hits ) , and dropped my case and shimmed my axle . I would rather buy junkyard shafts from a pickup and shorten them :D
 
Pauly, didnt you have a 1310/s44 whatever CV bolted on a hack and tap yoke or was this someone else? I havent been able to wheel much since the conversion so its mainly road miles. My CV(stock) was a compromise until all other variables were ironed out like the 14ff diy flip and whatnot. The angle it runs vs. max operating does leave something to be desired, but when/if I have to rebuild it once a year I will step up to one of HAD's 1350's when everything is finalized LOL
 
Think I'll go with the HAD flange and Ford d-shaft for now. I'll save some cash by using the nitrogen shocks that came with rc liftkit instead of buying new superduty ones - that was going to be close to $200.

Tranny went to the shop this morning and driveshaft/flange are both paid for and ordered. Hopefully I can get the drivetrain back together by the end of next week.
 
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I will tell you from what I know , if you actually wheel ( I don't think a Chalet will do hardcore rockcrawling with the camper LOL ) your going to go through a couple CV shafts in several years , mostly rebuilding the CV end .

I got tired of fixing them ( flex and rock hits ) , and dropped my case and shimmed my axle . I would rather buy junkyard shafts from a pickup and shorten them :D

I have to disagree. I am running a HAD 1350 rear shaft. It's been under the K5 since 2002 and all the joints are the origionals. The shaft has several dents from hitting rocks but it still going strong.
 
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