Driveshaft problem

[Dafey]

After putting on a 4" lift my drive shaft fell out when I braked really hard [testing them , after new lines and bleeding]

I was thinking about a EZ inch, to go up a 1" and forward 1.5" between the 2 it should be ok....??
I cant afford a new DS at the moment
[$$$ ] and I need my truck back. Its been sitting for close
to 3 months!!!

Heres what it looks like now:

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

After putting on a 4" lift my drive shaft fell out when I braked really hard [testing them , after new lines and bleeding]

I was thinking about a EZ inch, to go up a 1" and forward 1.5" between the 2 it should be ok....??
I cant afford a new DS at the moment
[$$$ ] and I need my truck back. Its been sitting for close
to 3 months!!!

What's an EZ inch? If you mean adding a zero rate (which would lift the truck 1" more, making your problem worse) and using it to move the front axle 1.5"
back (which will make the problem better) it *might* work. Even if it does, it will mean you will need to trim the fenders a lot more.

Do you have a welder? Its not too hard to retube your own driveshaft.

 

[y5mgisi]

I think he is refering to the rear driveline.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I think he is refering to the rear driveline.

Oops , usually its the front shaft that has issues.

Anyway, most of what I said still stands. It may solve your problem and it may not. That depends on how much your springs are wrapping and that's tough to quantify. You could try the temporary zero rates for $50, you could have the driveshaft retubed for ~$100 or (if you have a welder) you could retube it yourself for less than half that cost.

 

[chevy wrangler]

or you can come down to el paso and i could find you one

 

[chevy wrangler]

if you get one for a 205 t-case its alot longer so it wont "pop" out of place

 

[GNERGY]

By the pictures it looks like you need more degrees on your blocks or a shim to tilt you pinion up, so your driveshaft is pointing straight towards you T case.
Tarey

Here is a pic of how the driveshaft should point towards the T case. It's the best pic I could find.

 

[Dafey]

By the pictures it looks like you need more degrees on your blocks or a shim to tilt you pinion up, so your driveshaft is pointing straight towards you T case.
Tarey

Here is a pic of how the driveshaft should point towards the T case. It's the best pic I could find.

I dont think that alone will fix it... Look at the pic, its about 1.5" to short.
Like 38377k5 said I need a longer one too.
And the front is just fine, the splines are just bearly showing...
I guess I could get shims and see what happens ...??

 

[lectric80]

For a non-CV shaft, you don't want to point the pinion at the t-case. That will create a lot more vibrations. For this one, you are going to need a longer driveshaft, and that isn't going to be very cheap. It may be possible to take it to a local driveshaft shop and have them do it cheap. Or you could always run in 4 high with the rear shaft out, until you can get a new one made.

 

[chevy wrangler]

here is a shot of the d-shaft from the '82
it has a th400,205
its 39.5" long.. only about an inch of splines show

the one from the 73 has a th350,203
its 37" long and only .5" splines show

the one from the truck has a sm465,205
its 16" long and no splines show

oh and btw i measured from center of joint to center of joint

 

[wayne]

For a non-CV shaft, you don't want to point the pinion at the t-case. That will create a lot more vibrations. For this one, you are going to need a longer driveshaft, and that isn't going to be very cheap. It may be possible to take it to a local driveshaft shop and have them do it cheap. Or you could always run in 4 high with the rear shaft out, until you can get a new one made.

Not always true. My first K5 had a 241 t case with the stock slip yoke driveshaft and I had to point the rear toward the t case to get the vibrations to go away.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Not always true. My first K5 had a 241 t case with the stock slip yoke driveshaft and I had to point the rear toward the t case to get the vibrations to go away.

That was my experience as well. Its just proof that as far as vibrations go there isn't a clear cut answer as to where to set the angles.

In theory having the angles the same will eliminate vibration but because our trucks are so far past the maximum 3 degree operating angle (Spicer's spec), things aren't that simple.

 

[pauly383]

Not always true. My first K5 had a 241 t case with the stock slip yoke driveshaft and I had to point the rear toward the t case to get the vibrations to go away.

They changed crossmembers and skid plates in the mid 80's . I don't have a W one here to check to one of my pre-85 ones , but the amount of raised/lowering could be different .

We need a measurement thread for different years and combos

 

[Dafey]

For a non-CV shaft, you don't want to point the pinion at the t-case. That will create a lot more vibrations. For this one, you are going to need a longer driveshaft, and that isn't going to be very cheap. It may be possible to take it to a local driveshaft shop and have them do it cheap. Or you could always run in 4 high with the rear shaft out, until you can get a new one made.

I did that to get home when it fell out

Chevy Wrangler I need that 1st DS ,2" longer would be just right.

 

[Dafey]

Would it hurt any thing to drive it in front wheel drive ? No rear DS..

 

[lectric80]

Shouldn't cause any problems, as long as you don't make it a permanent solution. The front end parts are going to wear a little more, but it shouldn't be a problem if you are only doing it long enough to get the new shaft in.

 

[Dafey]

Well Id really only drive it to a DS shop or the like.

And if chevy wranglers DS isnt right Ive got $250 saved to get mine reworked..IF the ol lady doesnt come up with some reason to spend it, like food or gas.

 

[lectric80]

Like I said, for a short trip it would work, I just wouldn't want to do it more than required. I ran mine with the hubs locked in most of the winter, but just popped it into 4 high when needed. I wish I could remove my rear driveshaft at times, like when I lose a u-joint, but I need to get a SYE for the 205 and have a new driveshaft made up.