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driveshaft shortening..

Before you drive it to the driveshaft shop, make sure they actually have a balance machine. Some of them don't.
There used to be several places in town that made and modified driveshafts, but none of them balanced.
I asked one guy, and he assured me that the parts he put on were already balanced from the factory........

That is why I always use a friend of mine's machine shop that does driveshafts. But, since I do, I don't have much to offer in the way of advice for home shop work.

He has a setup that lets him chuck the shaft in a big lathe.
Spins it and uses a cutoff tool to remove the yoke weld. Cleans up the cut a little, and then lets the power feed slide the new yoke in.

Lathe insures that its perfectly straight. Then, with it clamped tight, he spots it in 4 places, then turns the machine on dead slow and does a complete weld as it turns.

After that, he takes it to the balancer. Chucks the two ends up, hits a button which locks one end down and lets the other end float.
Uses a belt that swings down from on top to spin the shaft, and uses a strobe timed to the vibration of that end to find the right spot.

He has a big assortment of washers in a bucket, and a digital scale next to it. Reads out how much weight is needed and finds a washer that weight.

Puts the washer on with electrical tape and respins it. When he gets it right, he locks that end and unlocks the other and finds the washer needed for it.

When its all setup, maybe slightly light on each washer, he tacks them on and gives it a final spin.
If they are light, he adds a little more weld. If heavy he hits them with a grinder.

I don't know how fast that belt will spin a shaft, but I have seen one going so fast it was a blur and was rock solid.
 
Looks good on the screen......

Balancing prices seem a little high, but I have not bought one in years, so who knows.
 
My experiences with driveshaft mods is kind of limited but I've done a few --shortening them the way I was shown worked well for me--a friend showed me how to grind away the weld on the yoke until it can be tapped out,and he uses a pipe cutter to cut off what needs to be removed,it worked well and the cut comes out square,better than a chop saw or other home brew methods work usually...then its a fairly simple matter to tap the slug/yoke back in and weld it back up...You can use worm gear hose clamps as balance weights on the rear shaft too,they look ctude but work better than you think!..takes some fiddling to get them dialed in correctly...the 2 shafts I cut down didn't vibrate,so I didn't bother trying the clamps to balance it better..
 
Looks good on the screen......

Balancing prices seem a little high, but I have not bought one in years, so who knows.

eh, I'd pay a hundred to have it burned in and balanced... it's just the logistics suck..

I may actually wait till spring on this and just get the front shaft in for winter for now... it wont hinder me with chopping more off the frame/rear x-member/tubebed winter stuff....
 
I'm glad we made it through a driveshaft thread without seeing the words "square tube".
 
My work has had probably a few hundred drive-shafts done by the guy at Mr Driveshaft. All medium duty stuff, 4" tube up to 72" long, all come back nice a true. He's not the cheapest but does pretty nice work. If you know where Allaire airport is, his shop is right by it. It is kinda far from you.

I had the two piece drive shaft done in my dodge when I had the carrier bearing changed. Think the balancing was only 75 or so. I didn't think it was a bad price.
 
yeah, i used to live across the street from the airport.. good to know he's reputable...
 
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