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Driveshafts: Has anyone done this?

Blue85

Blue85

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Is it possible to take a CV joint from a Blazer/truck front driveshaft and convert it to work on the rear driveshaft? You would take only the two U-joints from the CV and everything inbetween them. Then it would attach in place of the front U-joint of the rear driveshaft. This would lengthen the driveshaft by probably 3-4 inches, so the driveshaft would have to be shortened. If you had a big lift in the truck, this modification might make the driveshaft about the right length without shortening.

Just a brainstorm. I wondered if it could be done or if anyone has already done it, because it would be a lot cheaper than paying for a custom driveshaft.



'85 JIMMY
'90 paint/grill/trim 5"susp 33/12.5/16.5
Fresh 350 B&M '87 TH700
 
On that same thought, does anyone know of a vehicle that takes a driveshaft that is about the right length for a Blazer with a common lift like 4 or 6 inches? Myself, I'm more interested in 208 'case vehicles, but it would also be good info concerning 205s, 203s and 241's

'85 JIMMY
'90 paint/grill/trim 5"susp 33/12.5/16.5
Fresh 350 B&M '87 TH700
 
I tried this a few years ago with no luck, the rear driveshaft yoke was to large and would hit the CV housing on rotation. I didn't want to start trimming away metal because it might sacrifice structural integrity, so I gave up. If you do try it please let us know what the turn out is.

<font color=orange>1979 BLAZER Cheyenne
smile.gif
 
Jesse at High Angle Driveline would be the best to ask on this. 530-872-5725

I think you have to change the tcase yoke. I just got a rear 1350 CV shaft from him to fit my 205 & 14 bolt setup.



Shawn
87 K5
few mods
 
I have a big caddy cv in my rear driveline, it was for a 70's caddy with the huge engine, come to think of it my 360hp Riviera has them too, its big, but i needed a flange from a dodge for the transfercase (203)it uses that big GM joint, about the same size as a 1330, i think. Seems to work just fine, but you know what i was thinking, my Riv, has two CV's one in the middle (its a two part shaft) and one at the pinion, i wonder if you could find the right combo of parts to use two, one at the tranfercase with a slip joint, and one at the pinion, do the car and truck 12 bolt yokes interchange? Hmmmmmm, its an idea!

RaisedK5

"Friends don't let friends drive Fords"
 
Blue85 I have a shaft from a shortbox chevy on my Blazer with 4" lift works great.You could goto the junkyard and look through their shafts and find the right shaft you need.Brady
 
there is not really a good way to do what you want- you can use a cady slip yoke c/v its good for lifts around 4-8 inches max- and not real heavy wheeling - its a bit of a smaller joint -and the design is a little weak- if you have a 241 t case you can get a shorty kit from bayougeep - 337-527-1044 + with this you can run a one ton c/v joint i make and its strong - 32 spline and 32 degree's flex-
 
I am planning to use a Saginaw CV on the rear with my 205 and 4" lift. So I made this Saginaw drive flange. (click at left to see pic) It will be bolted to the back of the 205. Is this like the 203-Dodge drive flange mentioned above????? I wish Ida known about it if it is the same. Is there a true 1350 size or larger CV out there? I did not see one in the Spicer book. ALSO....what is the part number for the HUGE CV on the Phord Expedition?

SteveB
 
Yeah thats basically what my flange looks like, they had to go over the books a few times to find it, and then i needed a different seal for the tailshaft, but it all worked out with a little research and off the shelf parts.

RaisedK5

"Friends don't let friends drive Fords"
 
the saginaw c/v only flexes to around 22 degrees and is not very strong - is your flange welded together ? that's a weak weld - cast iron to cast iron- not trying to be a jerk- there is a 1350 c/v 2 types - i stock both - and even an 80 degree 2 ton c/v for extreme stuff - call 530-872-5725 ask for jesse
 
Hi Jesse! Yes, it is welded... I machined the NP flange ID .003 under and pressed the splined chunk into it. Then
machined a groove for the fillet, preheated the pressed assy (checked with dig pyrometer, to 400F) then welded with nickel rod. Then wrapped in asbestos blanket and buried in sand for a slow cool down. Maybe it is weak, I dunno. BTW...what's that Mopar part number???? What is the difference in the journal diameters between the Saginaw and the Spicer 1350? Spicer also makes a Saginaw look alike.

SteveB
 
well you know your welding on cast iron steve - personally i do not think it is a good idea - i am not downing you - but you never see oem welding cast iron + believe me its cheaper to do and they would do it if they felt it would work- your question on journals - i beleive its around .075 larger - the cap is larger too -and the h yoke is huge compared to the 3 r - you can get 32 degree's working angle on the 1350 -by the way your flange looks long for a 205 - does it have a 2" thru hole? it appeard to be around 3 1/2 long from your pic- let me know what you think about all of this - jesse
 
Hi Jesse...I agree, the cast iron weld is far from ideal. I was doing
my best to retain the properties of the ductile iron. Plus, I like to weld!
The thru hole I machined in the flange was about 1" deep, and the spline
chunk was press fitted into it the full 1 inch, .003 interference fit.
Thus the weld has to withstand some torque, and not much
if any radial stress. We'll see what happens :)

The spline-chunk engages the Gear Vendor output shaft just short of it's
output shaft bearing. I did this because I have 2 or 3 Blazer
front drive shafts laying around!...and...hey...this is a hobby!

BTW, I checked my J300 again...what page are you on for that 1350CV?
...or are you making yours from other NonSpicer components? Naapco has
an unwelded CV shaft assy that looks very nearly 1350 size.
Steve in NC


SteveB
 
well steve i like to weld too- and its fun to come up with something new -you will not see the 1350 series spicer comp. listed for a few months or even a year- neapco does not have anything for this yet- do you run a driveline shop somewhere? you seem fairly knowledable on what fits-the other company builds for gm mainly but gm is not doing the 135o c/v yet either - i have alo of conections in the buis. and have acess to alot of new info . before it comes out in print- do you want some pricing on the 3 X .083 c/v head? call 530-872-5725 ask for jesse
 
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