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driveshaftsuperstore.com?

josh86k10

josh86k10

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Posts
423
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1
Location
Knoxville, TN
In my efforts to tuck 40's under 6" of lift, I have decided to use some zero rates to go up another inch and move my front axle forward 1.5" and my rear axle back 1.5". Time for driveshaft modifications. I'd love to throw some business towards HAD, but unfortunately that's just not in the budget. The front shaft is simple enough to have lengthened locally, but I figure now is a good time to put a CV out back at set my pinion angle once and for all. Local shops seem to know how to build a standard shaft but non-stock applications seem to be a little over their heads, and my pocket book doesn't want to make them think outside the box. So, I am thinking about a driveshaft from driveshaftsuperstore.com, seems to be my cheapest option for a new shaft. What do ya'll think? Anybody dealt with them before?

Also I am trying to decide between a 1310 CV with a 1350 at the bottom for my 14bff for $265, or a 1350 CV with 1350 for $340. I don't exactly have a high horsepower engine (stock 305, eventually will become mild 350), but I am spinning 39.5 TSL's with lockers. Opinions?

http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/blazer_rear_drive_shaft.htm
 
Who/where are they? Their website blows... It just hangs Firefox as it tries to load hundreds of lines of Java code. :mad:

If they are in ANY way connected to Gloeco, or Arizona Drivelines (As I recall, those are both the same outfit), then RUN the other way. There's have been several posts about those folks selling junk that doesn't come anywhere close to meeting their specs.
 
when I asked about them, everyone said that they change names a couple times a year and seem very shady. But, I didn't get any direct feedback on their quality.
 
That is the same company that offers a kit to convert a 208 to fixed yoke by, get this, just drilling and tapping a hole in the outputshaft and bolting a yoke on :rolleyes: . In the words of Montey Python "Run away, run away!!!!!!!!!!!!"

I also remember seeing a picture of a driveline that got kinked and was supposed to be .25 wall but it tore like a beer can. Not sure if it was theirs but I think it was.


Ira
 
Like Harry and Ira said. It's Oscar's BS, AZ drivelines, one and the same. Search for my previous posts. Search on Pirate. It's been hashed over and over again. Total CRAP. [Disclaimer]- This is only my opinion based on my experience with their "product" [/Disclaimer].
 
OK so it did not actually tear but here is a picture of Fred's (FWP) shaft of AZ drivelines.
1326Crap_1.JPG


Ira
 
Whoever you get your driveshaft from, get the 1350 cv. Getting the 1310 with 40" swampers will powder the roller bearings in a 1310 quick. After I built my truck, I tried getting away with running a semi-stock driveshaft for about 4 months- 1310 at the case and 1350 at the axle. I went through about a dozen 1310 joints at the transfer case and zero at the diff. Both joints were running at 14 degrees. Switched to 1410's and have had no problems in the last two months. Moral- don't waste your money on 1310 anything running big tires and any kind of gearing/power.
 
hey, i talked to a guy from driveshaftsuperstore.com the other day and they did know alot, especially about the k5. they knew about the lift height with a stock driveshaft and the swap of 1 ton axles. it seemed like the dude knew what he was talking about. i just ordered an extended driveshaft with 1/8" walls. just the tube with 1350 ends only cost me $165. i will post up again when i get the shaft. i should be getting it tomorrow.
 
PsychoticDeadGuy said:
hey, i talked to a guy from driveshaftsuperstore.com the other day and they did know alot, especially about the k5. they knew about the lift height with a stock driveshaft and the swap of 1 ton axles. it seemed like the dude knew what he was talking about. i just ordered an extended driveshaft with 1/8" walls. just the tube with 1350 ends only cost me $165. i will post up again when i get the shaft. i should be getting it tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Hope that works out for you... :dunno: :yikes:
 
Would I be fine with just a normal 1350 driveshaft (no CV) with 7" (Short bed p/u + 1.5")? If so, I may just go that route. What trucks would have a 208 slip yoke 1350 shaft? Then I can just have it lengthened or shortened locally.
 
I am a 50/50 on them. I won't use them again however. The driveshaft in my K5 was done by them while I waited, it was as I asked. We dropped off the crew cab and it came back with used (actuallly original) u-joints. I would never mail order from them.
 
This is a picture of another AZ Drivline drive shaft. This one did not even make it out my friends driveway before it twisted. It was literaly made out of mild steel exhaust tubing. Oscar was low on money, so he scamed my buddy out of a few hundred dollars to pay his rent. My friend never got his money back on this. Oscar said it was my friends fault that it twisted like a pretsel at 3 MPH. BULLSH!T!!!

bent0yb.jpg
 
my buddy had his done if i recall correctly was Dicks Driveshaft, he had pretty good service and new exactly what i needed when i explained to him my problem findin a combo u joint for my d/s and rear end.
 
Do Not Buy From These Assholes! Ever! Save yourself the hassle and look up any of their names (Arizona Driveline, Driveshaft Superstore, etc) on this board or Pirate and see what folks have to say. Any business that needs several different names to stay in business is not a good one to buy from
 
Well, despite all the wonderful things ya'll have to say about them, I just don't think I'm going to go this route anymore. Thanks guys!
 
I purchased one from them, I am happy with it so far. they built the driveshaft while i was there, and they put in what I asked for. I had the weight of my blazer resting on the shaft at one time and it didnt get any dents! I think I would have purchased my shaft from someone else though after hearing about the horror stories that you guy have told. :doah:
 
I am never using them again based on what I have heard .

Now my shaft did come from them before I knew better . And I have over a year on it . No problems , knocking on wood now as I type :wink1:

I replaced u-joints once at 9 months old , but that is probably from wheelin' a lot and not bad joints . Lifted trucks eat joints occasionally .

Mine was made the day I called , and had new u-joints in it . They had to do new u-joints on mine . They had none already built for a np 208 slip CV with 10 bolt joints , and a 12 bolt on the other end at the time I called .
 
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