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Drivetrain Oil?

If your case is in 2wd and you lock both front hubs what happens when you try to turn the front shaft by hand?
 
With both hubs locked and in 2WD, when I turn the front shaft it spins freely. When I jack the truck up and spin the wheels they spin freely as well. Also noticed that when I jack the truck up at the differential only one wheel comes up lol I have to jack it up and set it on a jack stand then jack the other wheel up.
 
Thars your problem rite thar.......

If the hubs don't engage, then the front shaft is sitting still while you are moving so the case is going to grind when you try to tie a stationary gear to a spinning gear.

Of course, that also probably means you have an non-synchronized box.
 
Pretty sure its ATF for the transfer case, and gear lube for the tranny. You can use the same stuff in the front and rear ends as the tranny.

I run 85/90 Amsoil in my front and rear, and the same in the transfer case since its a 205. But yours needs the ATF.

Most GM 208s were syncroed, but some from other makes were not. Plus your syncros might be worn.
 
That wouldn't surprise me, everything on this truck seems to be worn. Would Synthetics vs Conventional make a difference? I'm wondering how it would respond to a switch since I'm almost positive it's running all conventional, except for the motor lol
 
Might want to change your title to DRIVETRAIN OIL. When I first seen your title I was like WTF, someone thinks the driveline is supposed to have oil in it. :haha:

:haha:

I agree, I was thinking, you put that into the reservoir right next to the blinker fluid. You can probably buy some here...

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2

On a more serious note, I run Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90 in both my diffs, (I wouldn't run it in a clutch type limited slip though), I would run it in your SM465 too. I also run it in my NP205, but if you have an NP208 then I would just put in some Dex III.
 
Awesome, now just out of curiosity, what if the diffs have ARB lockers?

doesn't matter, synthetic lube is fine with ARBs because they mechanically lock, there are no clutches/frictions.
 
FWIW, my F250 has factory limited slip with clutches. About once a year, I would start picking up loud clunks after a long straight run when I turn a corner.
The clutch plates would stick and release with bangs.

Every time I would either change the grease if it had been in water, or put in the friction modifier in a tube that they sell.

After I switched to Amsoil, I asked if they sold the modifier. They told me it was not needed with that oil.

I ran it for 2 years with no clunks, and both tires pulled every-time I needed them.
 
My philosophy...

If you drive it pretty much on the road and don't have to change it besides service intervals, I go with a quality synthetic lube. (My Camaro)

If it gets heavy or off-road use... I check and change it a lot anyways, so I use regular ol' cheap gear oil. (My Jimmy)

All gear driven stuff gets gear oil. Anything with frictions of any kind in it (like synchro's) gets ATF. When in doubt on a T-case, I would err on the side of ATF if I were you. Most gear boxes will run fine with ATF... But gear oil will trash anything with frictions or synchro's REALLY quick
 

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