CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Dropped valve

ChevyWoods89

Registered Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Posts
9
Reaction score
0
Location
OK
Why did it overheat?

That piston is fubar'd.
 
What do the cylinder walls look like?

I'd be surprised if they don't have nice gouges based on the way that piston looks from parts bouncing around in there.

Edit: Damn, beat me to it :)
 
It was a leaking freeze plug that got worse as he drove 3 hours. The truck sat for a few months prior to that at my grandmothers house according to my father. All this happened while I was deployed. The cylinder wall looks to be in good shape. The oil was drained and was clean
 
If you can feel any kind of significant nicks or scratches in the wall of that cylinder then your looking at a rebuild for sure. Let me dig up some pictures of my motor that's in my Trans Am and show you how mine looked after pistons started coming apart. I was able to get by without doing a hone or bore. Long story short it was on a fresh rebuild when it did this so you can still see the cross hatching very easily. I got lucky. Maybe you will too.
 
Here you go. One thing to mention. The dark lines going up the cylinder wall were smooth. Not a scratch or rough spot on the wall. I spoke with the machine shop who did the machine work on the block only a few months before this happened, show them these pictures, and talked about what happened and they said I was going to be ok. Cause was detonation if you were wondering. Long story as I said...live and learn :whistle:

attachment.jpg

attachment1.jpg

attachment2.jpg

After looking a little closer at your picture it looks like there is rust forming at the top of the piston all around the cylinder? Will the motor turn? You said its sat for a while right?

attachment.jpg

attachment1.jpg

attachment2.jpg
 
Yea the truck sat from about August to October. It will still turn over and you can still see cross hatching on the cylinder walls but I can't feel any scratches on them
 
all those pints on the impact sights will create hot spots and lead to pre ignition ( aka pinging ) and over heat that cylinder and cause you lots of trouble.
 
I would say that if you are needing to get it mobile asap then you could slap it together with a new piston/rings. But it won't be trustworthy and expect to do a rebuild in the future.

Seeing the rust forming in the cylinder wall like that and seeing what I think looks like rust in the #3 cylinder next to it I would highly recommend at the very least a little hone work. But if your going to go through that your right there at getting a bore done.

None of that is the right thing to do by any means. But it MIGHT get you by for a couple months....key word might...

If it were me. I would do a full rebuild or find me a cheap running sbc motor to swap in...I bought a 350 short block out of a 87' Corvette when the 305 in my Jimmy spun a rod bearing. Got it for $300 bucks. Way cheaper then a full rebuild on the 305 with the added benefit of more cubes. Look around craigslist and talk with the guys at your local auto stores. They know of deals typically.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom