Easy, except the fill hoses IMO. Don't cut them either, unless you are 100% sure you have replacements. The big one used to be tough (and costly) to find. Not sure if that has improved lately.
I do it with a floor jack and a chunk of wood to cushion the tank, between the straps. Siphon most of the fuel out if its full. You can do it with maybe a quarter tank or so, but it's unwieldy and will shift unexpectedly. Don't forget to disconnect the ground and gauge wires before you start unbolting stuff.
I loosen the strap bolts up front, and remove the nuts at the rear, using the floor jack to keep the tank in place. As long as you don't have dual exhaust (one reason I don't!) you can sit in front of the rear axle, inside of the passenger rear tire under the truck, and undo the fuel/EVAP line clamps with pliers, then disconnect all those hoses. You can remove the clamps from the fill hoses, but if they haven't been off recently, good luck disconnecting them at this point.
After everything is loose/removed that is possible, from the rear of the truck you can splay the tank straps side to side to clear (most likely, or just bend them downward a bit, they will take it) drop the tank a bit until there is tension on the fill hoses, then reach up in there and twist them until they come loose. You can try to break the bond with a screwdriver under the rubber where it connects to the fill neck on the body if it's stubborn. But once you can twist them, they will come free eventually.
Once those pop loose you can just drop the floor jack and yank it out, the straps might be in the way a bit, but the tank will come out.
I put the fill hoses back together with dielectric grease in an attempt to make sure they don't bond to the metal as badly for the next time.
I try to be careful with the cushion material on the tank straps and top corners of the tank, but if they get damaged or need replacement, roofing felt works fine.
