Drum Brake Guide for First Timers

[dhcomp]

Ok, So I've needed to do rear drum shoes on my burb for a while, but have NEVER attempted to do any work to drum brakes. It's kinda been an intimidation thing more than anything, because I never have anyone to help me when i'm working on my truck.

I wanted to make this list of things i learned, but if there were better ways to attack it, i'm all ears. I just want a good informative post so others can search for tips and not come up empty handed like i did.

I learned quite a few things, and alot were things i wish someone had told me before i started. I am friendly with all the guys at my local kragen, but most are worthless. After 4 or so trips back and forth for random parts i needed, i got the info/encouragement out of them that i needed.

When I do jobs of this type, i like to have what i need on hand before i start, and like everyone, I get frustrated with multiple part store trips. I don't mind spending a few extra bucks on a tool that makes the process way easier, or on the extra hardware kit to replace questionable hardware.

I followed the standard Chiltons service manual, and would expect any novice to follow a good repair guide. Remember, Autozone has free repair guides online!

Ok, on to the tips!

Buy some good grease designed for brakes. I hate those little packets, so i got a jar that is basically a lifetime supply. Rear drum brakes last a long time, and i figure i better do a good job lubricating everything while i'm in there, as it probably wont' be opened again for another 30,000 miles or more.

Buy the specialty brake tools. My guy at kragen recommended the following:

Brake Spring Pliers http://kragen.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=648404
They were $7, and i don't think i would have removed the springs and lived to tell about it without them. Yah, I could have put on a face shield, and attacked the springs with a screwdriver, but thats not how I like to work.

Brake hold down tool http://kragen.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=648592
This was also only $7, and I had no idea what it was for until i needed it. It helps you release and reinstall the hold down spring retainers easily. At first, I didn't' think it was that great, but when you are holding everything together with your other hand, and knee, and chin.....this tool comes through in a pinch and helps you get that retainer washer installed on your first try.

Kragen also had this kit, but i didn't buy this one http://kragen.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=640579&CategoryCode=3479
I was told i didn't need it, and am curious to hear from others if it would have helped. I sorta think any extra small tool to help with some of those springs would have been nice, but probably not necessary for another $20.

Buy the hardware kit! I didn't even know this existed until i lost a E clip and washer and went back to the store trying to find a replacement. This little kit contains most of the critical springs and hardware involved in the brake job. The one for mine was somethign like this:http://kragen.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BHH&MfrPartNumber=H7055
At only $4.29, it saves your a$$ if you lose a spring or clip, keeps you from having to clean up all your old hardware/springs, and lets you replace parts that are probably warn and ready for replacement anyways.

Wheel Cylinders: I didn't originally buy new wheel cylinders, but after seeing the age of mine and the conditions of the seals on the first side i did, i went back and got them. This item is up to you, but i'd rather have them and return them if not needed. I paid about $10.99 a piece, and you would need one for each side. Glad i had bought them when i got to the passenger side, as that one was leaking pretty bag. I was planning to bleed the brakes to rid myself of some other issues i was having following this brake job, so it wasn't a big deal to replace these. If you aren't planning to bleed, realize that you will have to re-bleed the system after you change wheel cylinders.

Besides that, take good pictures as you go along, and do one side at a time. That way, you can go look at side 2 when you realize you don't know how to put side 1 back together

Hope some of these tips come across as useful! Forgive my rambling as its late, and i'm not thinking too straight......

Tomorrow i get to re bleed the system, and i'll post back to let you know how everything works after its adjusted!

 

[StevoandaRedK5]

Awesome Darren! 'scribed for later use...

 

[jonrpick]

I call BS on the brake spring pliers.

I tried them. I've come to a couple of conclusions regarding them:

1) They do nothing
2) They were designed specifically by a bunch of guys who were really stoned and needed more money for their weed. They got really high, made these God-forsaken things, and then couldn't quit laughing over the idea of some actually trying to use them. They were so amused that they sold the design to someone who put them in production.



Now, seriously... I believe that these things exist for a reason, but neither myself, nor a mechanically-inclined friend (all his vehicles use discs) could manage to do anything other than cuss.

I'll need video proof of someone actually using them, ON CHEVY REAR DRUMS, to believe that they actually work.

Regardless, subscribed... I completely rebuilt my rear using 95% new parts, except for the stuff I couldn't find. Somewhere, I screwed up on one of the wheels, because they don't retract as they should.

 

[dhcomp]

I call BS on the brake spring pliers.

I tried them. I've come to a couple of conclusions regarding them:

1) They do nothing
2) They were designed specifically by a bunch of guys who were really stoned and needed more money for their weed. They got really high, made these God-forsaken things, and then couldn't quit laughing over the idea of some actually trying to use them. They were so amused that they sold the design to someone who put them in production.



Now, seriously... I believe that these things exist for a reason, but neither myself, nor a mechanically-inclined friend (all his vehicles use discs) could manage to do anything other than cuss.

I'll need video proof of someone actually using them, ON CHEVY REAR DRUMS, to believe that they actually work.

Regardless, subscribed... I completely rebuilt my rear using 95% new parts, except for the stuff I couldn't find. Somewhere, I screwed up on one of the wheels, because they don't retract as they should.

Haha, i actually used them. I used the round end to take the return springs off the top stud, and used the pliers with the hook part to put one spring on, and used the spoon deal to put the other spring on. And used them to disassemble the adjuster thing. For some of the springs, i just used them as a giant hook (with really dangerous sharp other ends, haha) to pull the springs into place. My other favorite tool was a screwdriver style small pry bar.


So, i did the adjustments as best as i could, and drove back and for pulsing the brakes in reverse to get them to self adjust the rest of the way.

Do these things work when well lubed? I did notice some change in pedal height, which was good, but kinda wanted more.

Do the self adjusters work better with quick hard stops in reverse, or just soft pulsing, or what? I'm guessing they only click once for each stop, so I would need to do this a LOT of times following a brake job to be sure they were in proper position, right?

Any experienced guys have any insight?

 

[rufusbooth]

Just stopping normally keep the rear brakes in proper adjustment. No need to slam on the breaks to get the adjusters to work but your thoughts on having to do it A LOT is correct if they were not adjusted properly in the first place. The self adjusters are intended to keep the brakes adjusted not take up major slack. And, if there is too much slack they may not work at all.

The brakes should be adjusted with either the brake tool or a screwdriver through the hole in the bottom of the backing plate or the front of the drum spun to align with the adjuster (been too long since I looked at my truck to remember where it was). Tighten the adjuster a bit then spin the drum. Repeat as necessary to get the shoes to just drag on the drum. You should still be able to easily spin the drum but you should still hear the shoes dragging and feel the increased drag when you spin it. After that normal driving will keep the brakes adjusted.

Hope that helps.

Rufus

 

[dhcomp]

Just stopping normally keep the rear brakes in proper adjustment. No need to slam on the breaks to get the adjusters to work but your thoughts on having to do it A LOT is correct if they were not adjusted properly in the first place. The self adjusters are intended to keep the brakes adjusted not take up major slack. And, if there is too much slack they may not work at all.

The brakes should be adjusted with either the brake tool or a screwdriver through the hole in the bottom of the backing plate or the front of the drum spun to align with the adjuster (been too long since I looked at my truck to remember where it was). Tighten the adjuster a bit then spin the drum. Repeat as necessary to get the shoes to just drag on the drum. You should still be able to easily spin the drum but you should still hear the shoes dragging and feel the increased drag when you spin it. After that normal driving will keep the brakes adjusted.

Hope that helps.

Rufus

Ok, sounds good. I did the adjustment from teh book, slide the drums on and off while adjusting til there is drag, then back off 1.25 turns. That set the baseline on each, then i backed up a bunch to get the adjusters to adjust. Sounds like either way i was backing up would let them work.

Thanks!

 

[rufusbooth]

Further information on the self adjusters and how they work. You actually need to drive forwards and stop then drive backwards and stop. The act of "spinning" (for lack of a better word) the shoes forwards and then backwards is what gets the adjuster cable to ratchet and spin the adjuster.

Simply driving backwards and stopping multiple times while never changing direction will not self adjust. Drive forwards like 5 feet and stop, then drive backwards 5 feet and stop. Forwards, backwards, forwards, repeat, repeat, repeat.

Rufus

 

[rufusbooth]

More info I just though of .

You can tell if your adjusters have taken up all the slack by checking your e-brake pedal height. As the adjusters take up the slack your e-brake pedal will get higher. Once the pedal stops getting higher then the adjusters are not going to do any more. Feel free at that time to adjust your e-brake cable if necessary.

Rufus

 

[dhcomp]

Got it. Some of the time i heard a click or 2, but you never know what is clicking on that damn old truck, haha.

Does that one adjustment nut on the ebrake cable really adjust the whole system (aka both sides)? I'm a mech engineer, and can't wrap my head around why tightening one of the cables would equally tighten both....it seems more of a left/right balance adjustment to me. But maybe i'm just too burned out for it to make sense. Regardless, i need to let my adjusters finish their job, then tighten the ebrake cable. Its been really low since i've had the truck.

 

[Brady]

The only thing I have to add is remember to put the shoe with the longer pad towards the rear.When I was having brake problems last month.I didn't realize they were different.Untill I went to do the other side and noticed.Had to do the first side all over.:facepalm:

 

[rufusbooth]

With regards to the e-brake adjustment I am not sure as you have a 91 and mine is a 73. There was a significant change in the system for the later models and I don't want to disseminate improper information for the later models.

Hopefully someone from the brotherhood can chime on on the e-brake adjustment for the later model trucks. Sorry I cant be of help on this one.

Other than that I think you have got it!

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[dhcomp]

The only thing I have to add is remember to put the shoe with the longer pad towards the rear.When I was having brake problems last month.I didn't realize they were different.Untill I went to do the other side and noticed.Had to do the first side all over.:facepalm:

On mine, they were not marked differently, but i realized one was slightly thicker. And after some online research, the thicker (or longer) shoe is the secondary, and goes towards the rear.

I didn't notice the frames were SLIGHTLY different until they were installed.

So yah, good catch! Put the thicker/longer shoe towards the rear of the truck!

 

[90Suburban]

Great information here. Subscribed for later use!

 

[dhcomp]

I saw the thread title, and thought to myself "wow, that thread looks useful, wish I had seen that when i did drums"....and then realized i wrote it....

 

[90Suburban]

I saw the thread title, and thought to myself "wow, that thread looks useful, wish I had seen that when i did drums"....and then realized i wrote it....

Haha, that's awesome!

I was searching for information on how to adjust my emergency brake. It goes all the way to the floor with little resistance and does basically nothing for holding the truck.

Do you have any tips or tricks on how to adjust the e brake?

 

[dhcomp]

Do a manual adjustment of the rear shoes first. This is probably your issue, not the ebrake being out of adjustment.

If you adjust the rear shoes, and still have no ebrake, start tightening the cable at the adjuster til just before they start engaging. Make sure to adjust evenly side to side.

 

[90Suburban]

Do a manual adjustment of the rear shoes first. This is probably your issue, not the ebrake being out of adjustment.

If you adjust the rear shoes, and still have no ebrake, start tightening the cable at the adjuster til just before they start engaging. Make sure to adjust evenly side to side.

Sweet. Thank you. I will definitely need to look at the manual as i have never had to do this before.