Teamstatic2001
Registered Member
Anyone know where to find some SRW hubs for the front, Checked ebay and everyone wants around 400 for new ones but I don't really think I need new ones. Anyone interested in some DRW hubs.
CK5
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DRW D60 to SRW
- Thread starter Teamstatic2001
- Start date
nothing is better then new. you can get them from any GM dealership. $160 a side and they come with rotors, studs, races, and the hub.
they may try to charge you more. $160 is my employee cost. but if you find the right parts guy you can get a deal.
they may try to charge you more. $160 is my employee cost. but if you find the right parts guy you can get a deal.
76zimmer said:
The general consensus is that this is dangerous on anything but a trail only rig.
johnnychimpo
1/2 ton status
try GMPARTS $318.00 for both shipped.
Duellys are trail only now??
Machining the dually wheel mounting surface is considered dangerous for street use. Using dually hubs as they are is perfectly acceptable.dleroy43 said:
Dually hubs have the mounting surface further out on the hub and some people machine that off and machine the piece I circled to use as the wheel mounting surface. There is obviously less material there and if it fails your tire will fall off.
Others take that a step further and weld metal in between each one of those "fingers" to try to make them stronger. How well that works is debatable concerning the material that is being welded to.
SRW hubs is on top, DRW hub is on bottom
Teamstatic2001
Registered Member
Ive heard of the dangers here, you've got the wieght of the vehicle restings on the 8 fingers intsted of a solid ring.38377k5 said:
Teamstatic2001
Registered Member
Where is this did a google and all I could find was www.gmparts.commx i believe and it was all in spanglish.johnnychimpo said:
ratki
Registered Member
I have to ask because I've thought of this myself. Is the weight of the vehicle not truly resting on the spindle. Of course the wheels are attached to the lugs which does hold the weight, but even with the outer mounting surface isn't the weight still transfered to the inner mounting surface. I've read about rotational forces as well and wonder how the force would be any different if the wheel is mounted on the outside. If the hub doesn't twist, which it doesn't, then the twisting force must still be the same at the hub to rotor mounting surface. One more thing I wonder about, if the wheel mounting surface was brought in closer to the hub to rotor mounting point would the tension on the bolts actually be less given that the weight is closer to the lugs. I wonder how much arm is created by mounting the wheel further out on the hub? Esentially given the trucks weight more torque on the 9/16 bolts due to the longer arm. I don't want to say this is safe or not, I am truly just trying to look at some of the points.
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
i'm currently waiting on a set of DRW hubs to get machined for a trail rig only, any failures and i will let everyone know. until then...
in the dana 60 bible, it shows a pic of a welded ring on the 8 fingers which would increase the strength of them.
ratki-- the inner surface is for the rotor mounting only on DRW hubs, not supporting weight.
in the dana 60 bible, it shows a pic of a welded ring on the 8 fingers which would increase the strength of them.
ratki-- the inner surface is for the rotor mounting only on DRW hubs, not supporting weight.
hey guys i just ordered mine from GMPARTSDIRECT.com for 318 shipped to my house, gonna be here tommrow!! brand new, hub/rotor/studs pressed together, just get bearings races and good to go
ratki said:
The full weight of the truck is applied to both the wheel mounting surface and the hub and wheel bearings.
The further out the wheel is from the wheel bearings the more force is applied to the wheel bearings, hub, etc. i.e. less backspacing (wheels that stick out more) and dually front axles put more stress on the wheel bearings and hub than their SRW counterpart.
I converted my DRW 60 to SRW. If I had to do it all over again, I would have kept the DRW 60 and run stock (not recentered) H1 double beadlocks.
YZEATER said:
I think machining DRW hubs for a trail only rig is perfectly acceptable and probably the way to go (again, for a trail only rig).
If the truck is driven on the street, I think you should buy SRW hubs. IMO, machining off the wheel mounting surface from DRW hubs and using the rotor mounts (which are not machined or designed for a wheel mounting surface) is a bad idea. Those 8 tabs have way less material than a SRW hub and although I'm not going to do any stress calculations on it, I can tell you its probably not safe (especially when you probably plan on putting big tires on it).
As for the argument about welding material in between the 8 "tabs":
If you are a really good welder, do all the right prep and lay down good welds then machine the new wheel mounting surface true, that would be an ok solution for a street driven vehicle IMO. The hubs are cast steel and you can weld to them.
The problem I have with it is this: That hub is probably 20-30 years old. It has probably had lots of grease/oil on it its whole life that has saturated into the hub. Its pretty unlikely that you will get a decent weld out of it.
Besides, once you do all of the work to cut 16 gap-filling pieces, weld them all in place and machine them true you are probably better off just buying new ones (unless you are a good machinist/welder and your time isn't worth much).
stockk5 said:
the races are also already installed.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
38377k5 said:
same here
I scored a drw 60 with 4.56 gears already in it..add some cheap stock h1's and its a bitchin set up for cheap!
ratki
Registered Member
Thanks for all the input. Its nice to be able to post a question and get reasonable replies.
