Alright guys here is my question have a drw chevy d60. I know a guy who is selling drw hubs machined down to srw by a local machinist and is selling them cheap.Now my question is if there is any problem running those hubs.
CK5
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Drw Hubs Machined Down To Srw?
- Thread starter JUNIOR-K5
- Start date
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
There was talk about them being weaker than normal SRW hubs. Something about having the ears with the studs coming through them rather than the normal full circle flange.
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
JUNIOR-K5 said:
Read it in the BV D60 Bible.....
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html
I read the bible a while back.Im just looking for personal experience.The guy who has them is willing to do an even swap for my drw for his machined down srw hubs.Just want to know if it would be safe to drive on highway to trails and occasional street use.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
I say keep the DRW hubs and run huge backspacing that way you protect the hub rather than have it sticking out
. Military H1s work perfect on DRW hubs.
Ira
. Military H1s work perfect on DRW hubs.Ira
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
JUNIOR-K5 said:
Right in the bible it states that they are not recommended for street use. If someone comes on here and says they have them and haven't had any problems doesn't mean they are safe or that you should do it.
The price you pay for used SRW hubs or new is far less than if you ran the machined DRW hubs and hurt or killed someone...
i agree, my friend then had a ring 3/8 thick and welded it to the flange then had it trued. I works fine and the only other prob is the meat on the hub must be able to fit thru the ring on the rim. If not machined down enough, the rims might not fit. I know this because he cant use any of my spare tires because his front hubs are thicker then my srw hubs are.Emmettology 101 said:
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
JUNIOR-K5 said:
You'd have to get a dually(not C&C) 14FF or D70 to get a similar width rear axle.
Keep an eye out on Ebay or check some of your local salvage yards for some SRW hubs.... Highonda on PBB sells brand new ones for $199ea. Or search alot of 4x4 BBS's for some used hubs..
Emmettology 101 said:
I´ve just read the bible but I didn´t find the answer to my question... (I´m looking to do the DRW to SRW conversion and will machine down the hub, but I haven´t bought the axle yet so I cannot look at it yet)
The hub and the rotor, how are the connected? I read about the machined drw hub being weaker since it has the ears and not a circular flange, but the wheel studs, are they pressed into the rotor and the holes in the hub are just "through"? Or are the studs pressed into the hub? If so, how´s the rotor locked into place?
i have mine machined down for 2 years and around 15000 miles and not a single problem and i beat my truck every weekend and then some .
they are pressed if i remember i will go look
I had my brother turn mine down in a lathe(Had to do it on the backside too so it would stay in the clamp of the lathe!). Then when I put in the wheel studs I tach them in with a welder because the studs are suposed to go through the disk first.
MTMike
1/2 ton status
sandawgk5 said:I say keep the DRW hubs and run huge backspacing that way you protect the hub rather than have it sticking out
Ira
Bluekrow said:
How do you prevent the rotor from rotating if you have the studs only in the hub?
I was thinking about putting the studs in the rotor and letting them go through the hub, that way you will bolt everything together with the wheel lug nuts and everything will be as strong as a SRW hub.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
I know, I know, old thread.
Stole the pic from the 60 bible. Thanks, somebody.
OK, seems to me people are worried that you only have tabs and or welds holding the wheel on after converting to SRW. However, I've been thinking. When the hub is used DRW the WMS isn't full thickness either. It's thinner with bosses for the studs, plus the WMS is father out, more leverage. Seems to me a good machinist using the right parts and processes could machine the hub down, install a WMS ring, and put the studs all the way thru the whole assy. Still not recommended, cuz it's not stock, but I can't see a weakness.
Stole the pic from the 60 bible. Thanks, somebody.
OK, seems to me people are worried that you only have tabs and or welds holding the wheel on after converting to SRW. However, I've been thinking. When the hub is used DRW the WMS isn't full thickness either. It's thinner with bosses for the studs, plus the WMS is father out, more leverage. Seems to me a good machinist using the right parts and processes could machine the hub down, install a WMS ring, and put the studs all the way thru the whole assy. Still not recommended, cuz it's not stock, but I can't see a weakness.
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