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dually half ton?

R

REDCRO_REDNECK

1/2 ton status
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Hey yall

I have a 1987 chevy k10 short bed, and was wondering if it is worth wile to convert it to a dually for pulling my mud truck. 60k 350, 700r4, 31" 3.42 gears

No I will not go and buy a new truck mine is too nice to sell.



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there are some extreme frame differences between a half ton, and a 1 ton. Not so much difference between a 3/4 ton and a 1 ton.

The frame is strucuturally weaker, and thinner. Could you do it? Sure. But you have have to change both the front and rear axles. You'll have to change the springs. You might have to drill new spring mounts. you'll probably want 4.10 gearing. the 700R4's never came under a dually. Their not built (in stock form) to handle that kind of abuse. Since its what you have, I'd use it. Get the biggest stacked plate cooler you can, tranny temp, etc.

You'll have to change your steering setup- I think you need a different steering arm, or something. (Never done this, I duno). there were no d44's or 10b 8 lug fronts for the 1 tons. Only 60's.

If I were you, I'd consider just swapping to a 14bFF SRW, or even a 14SF (they are plenty strong for your application), convert it to disc (if you have the money), and find a matching 8 lug front (doesnt have to be a d60). Try and find a 4.10, the 3.42 towing performance with 31" tires is dismal. You will need heavier duty springs for the rear. Your ride quality will suffer.
 
idk how big of a trailer your pulling or how big/heavy your mud truck is or how far/fast your going to pull it. But I would say you CAN stay SRW and still pull it lower gears would be a really good idea though and really the wheelbase is more of whats gonna be a issue.
 
I can convert a 10 bolt to a dually front, there is one in town using factory spacers from some dodge or chevy not sure.

My frame strength is not an issue, family has been using half tons in a lot worse pulls than I ever will.

I need new front springs anyway so spring upgrades are on the way.

I would go just strait 3/4 ton with rear disc brakes, but face it a short bed dually is unique.

look on my link to see the mud truck and it is pulled on a 16 foot trailer most it will be pulled is under 200 miles one way if I take my truck to springfield this fall for the Jamboree.
 
why did you ask this stuff if you seem to already have everything decided?

THere is one undeniable thing, a shortbed still sucks for towing. The trailer it going to overpower the truck due to the wheelbase, dually or not.
 
let me explain my thought process

I came up with an idea

Thought about the best way I know how to pull it off

ask about the thoughts and ideas of other (extra brainstorming)

decide if THIS is the course I wan to take.


I know that the loger the wheelbase the better for towing, but I have a good truck, and a good trailer. very controlable pulls great. The specs on my truck shows the gears suck for what I do ( no matter what needs lower gears). The brakes are kind of scary when in traffic ( needs larger brakes).
The easiest way to obtain a cure for my two biggest problems are 3/4 ton axle swap (bigger brakes, 4.10 gears). Then comes the other fact dually trucks have more control over a trailer, so why not make my k10 into a 3/4 ton dually, and cover all my bases?

Then comes the last part
"has anyone done this?, if so how and what would you do differently?"
 
3/4 ton front brakes are NOT larger. Marginally if any. It will not stop better with just factory fron 3/4 ton brakes.

Frame thickness may not be important to you, but it sure would be to me. A cracked frame at the hitch is a very bad thing.
 
if 3/4 ton fronts are smaller ( than what I think they are)why does one have to grind the calipers to put 15" wheels on them?

15's fit 1/2 ton

besides the rear brakes are a whole lot larger than 1/2 ton drums.
 
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I say what are ya waitin for? Git r done son!!! ;) A shortbed would be cool for hauling. It's like the difference between a cab over and a peterbuilt with a big sleeper and long frame... the shorter truck will maneuver a lot quicker and get you into tighter places. :waytogo: Never have hauled with a 6' space behind the cab but I would do it if that's what I had going. And a shortbed dually would be nice.
 
You only have to grind on a D60 caliper to fit a 15, not a 10 bolt(or a D44 for that matter). A 60 is a 1ton axle.
 
There is a local guy that has done this with a 2 wd short box 1/2 ton, using the the drivetrain from a 2wd dually. He says it pulls well, the extra weight and tires make up for the short wheelbase, his sits very low.

You won't be gaining much with the front brakes, however the difference in JB8 brakes and your 1/2 ton rears will be substantial.

Pookster, I'd be interested to hear about the differences between 1/2 and 3/4 ton frames. Yes, a 1 ton is a different animal, but 1/2 and 3/4 ton frames are identical, except in this case it would only be length.
 
1/2ton brakes and 3/4ton brakes are the SAME they use the same caliper pads lines everything the only difference is the outside diameter because they are 8Lug they have to be physically bigger but the contact size is the same. But converting to rear disks and a 3/4ton master cylinder will help quite a bit. the only way your gonna convert a 10bolt to dually is to put on spacers, which makes me ask WHY?! you are gaining absolutely no strength and actually making it weaker by bolting up nasty big spacers. If it were me I would keep it SRW up front and go dually in the back(if your dead set on doing this). Another thing is dually short beds have a look all of there own... yes differnt is sometimes cool and everyone should build there truck how they think is cool, but maybe you should photo chop a couple long beds before you decide to put some of these huge flairs on your truck. Another option is to make some little flairs hat bolt onto the inside of the fender that cover the outside wheel(I like that look alot) western haulers (western haulers used 3+3's in the early 90's) had a flair like this but was a little bulky but cut down they look cool they were made from aluminum.
 
you mean to tell me that any 8 lug front axle chevy offered did not have to be ground?

I call the BS card on that one, I just happen to have a 3/4 ton, eight lug 10 bolt front axle on my mud truck and that required me to grind the brake calipers to fit my 15x10 3.5" backspaced wheel on it

don't tell me it won't need grinding, been there done that
 
CHEVY 4WD said:
which makes me ask WHY?!
Click to expand...


It would really blow to carry 2 spare tires in a shortbed box. Shouldn't exert any more pressure on the balljoints due to the offset of the dually wheel.
 
thor said:
Pookster, I'd be interested to hear about the differences between 1/2 and 3/4 ton frames. Yes, a 1 ton is a different animal, but 1/2 and 3/4 ton frames are identical, except in this case it would only be length.
Click to expand...
Im almost citian 3/4ton frames are thicker an dmost already have 56" spring mounts
 
I do not have anything to photo chop with but it is a good idea, would someone mind doing it?

thanks for all help so far
 
REDCRO_REDNECK said:
you mean to tell me that any 8 lug front axle chevy offered did not have to be ground?

I call the BS card on that one, I just happen to have a 3/4 ton, eight lug 10 bolt front axle on my mud truck and that required me to grind the brake calipers to fit my 15x10 3.5" backspaced wheel on it

don't tell me it won't need grinding, been there done that
Click to expand...

Big difference in the ammount you have to grind. Yes the rotor is bigger, but the caliper is the same. You just had to clearance a little, mostly on the bracket... the guys running 15s on d60s are taking off a 1/4" or more.
 
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