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Dumb Q - jump starting a vehicle from a Blazer with two batts?

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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High likelihood that I'll be working on my buddy's Toyota car again in a few. Seems to be a charging issue now. Anyway, I need to know if there's anything special to jump starting a vehicle with the dual battery setup?

I figure just hook the clamps onto one and go but yeah, AJM + electrical = shock/fire hazard. Thought I should ask.:crazy:
 
Either will work. Connect to Positive on your blazer batt to pos on the toy, neg on your blazer batt to a good engine ground on the toy. Good engine ground being basically anything on the engine that is bare metal (and sparks when you connect it) and won't get hit by the fan when you start it.

Going pos/pos and neg/neg can hurt something, i think the alt diodes, but i forget what. Just don't do it.
 
As long as you can combine them in parallel, (which I assume is how you have them wired up),you can use them both to jump start the car. When you combine them' you'll just have 2x's as big battery, just flip your switch, & jump the other car like normal. + to + & - to - off of ONE of your batteries.

Just a thought. Don't blame me if you screw it up!! ;)

Later,
Buddy
 
As long as you can combine them in parallel, (which I assume is how you have them wired up),you can use them both to jump start the car. When you combine them' you'll just have 2x's as big battery, just flip your switch, & jump the other car like normal. + to + & - to - off of ONE of your batteries.

Just a thought. Don't blame me if you screw it up!! ;)

Later,
Buddy


Basically, if its the stock setup, and the truck is running, they should be combined. I just didnt' go into that much detail.

You are good to go AJM, you can hook to either bat.
 
Along the same lines- What if its a CUCV that still has the 24-volt setup? Same procedure?
 
Basically, if its the stock setup, and the truck is running, they should be combined. I just didnt' go into that much detail.

You are good to go AJM, you can hook to either bat.
Yep, all stock. I guess this means I never have to worry about which side of the engine bay the battery is when I pull up.:laugh:
Along the same lines- What if its a CUCV that still has the 24-volt setup? Same procedure?
Nope. You can't jump a 12v car with a 24v car. No bueno.

Although on SteelSoldiers one time a guy did sit there and write out how you could do it...theoretically...and it involved parts that weren't on the vehicle and stuff I don't normally carry so I put that subject under the "DON'T" category.
 
Nope. You can't jump a 12v car with a 24v car. No bueno.

Although on SteelSoldiers one time a guy did sit there and write out how you could do it...theoretically...and it involved parts that weren't on the vehicle and stuff I don't normally carry so I put that subject under the "DON'T" category.


Really? A 24v system would be 2 12volters in series. So i think you could hook to just one of the batteries, or remove the battery cables from one and jump from that one.

But maybe i'm retarded.
 
Yeah, you can disconnect it from the battery cables and jump off of one battery but you can't jump with the battery cables connected. It'd be sending 24v if you did with the cables connected.
 
CUCV you can jump a 12v car off front battery.
Civi blazer your choice of battery.
CUCV to CUCV I would go to the bars on the firewall
 
CUCV you can jump a 12v car off front battery.
Civi blazer your choice of battery.
CUCV to CUCV I would go to the bars on the firewall

Yup. Theoretically, you should be able to jump a 12V car off just the rear battery of a CUCV... still a ~14V differential being maintained there when truck is running... but you'd be maintaining the 12V car ground at the same voltage as the positive terminal of alt1 (same as isolated ground on alt2) on the CUCV.

I wonder if that theory would stack up to real world test... don't see why not.
 
Yup. Theoretically, you should be able to jump a 12V car off just the rear battery of a CUCV... still a ~14V differential being maintained there when truck is running... but you'd be maintaining the 12V car ground at the same voltage as the positive terminal of alt1 (same as isolated ground on alt2) on the CUCV.

I wonder if that theory would stack up to real world test... don't see why not.

Yah, thats what i'm thinking. But its been a long time since i took circuits....and everything in my truck is 12v, so what do i know?

Closest thing i've dealt with to a 24v CUCV is a golf cart :haha:
 
I dunno, I wouldn't do it myself but again, I'm not good with electrical stuff and also this is GM's hodgpodge 12 + 12 = 24 setup with odd parts and weird things.
 
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