Dying while accelerating between 30-40 need help

[K5trs]

My jimmy runs good until I get to 30+. It dies while I'm accelerating then it starts right up again when I pull over. Could it be possible that it's the carb running too rich? The exhaust smells strong enough to bring a tear to my eye! I recently installed a new fuel pump if that matters. Any advice is welcome!

 

[big pappa b]

Check fuel filter and plugs

 

[K5trs]

What do I check for? And which plugs?

 

[454Sub]

See if its clogged, but that would cause a lean condition. Check every plug. It could quite possibly be the float"s" in the bowl"s" are saturated with fuel, causing an over fueling condition as well. Did you put a stock replacement pump on it? Or a high output high pressure pump instead? That could also cause it.

 

[K5trs]

So that would mean carb problems? I'm kinda confused. And it's just a stock pump.

 

[Fordum]

If its running that rich, and blowing black smoke, then unless its skipping badly, its a carb problem.
A bad spark, either wires, distrib. or plug could cause one or more cylinders not to fire and let the gas blow out the back, but its most likely the carb.

Is it blowing the black smoke and smelling when it quits? I suspect that it's not. Dieing at speed and running at idle is almost always fuel delivery.

Which in most cases is the fuel pump or filter. Basically you are pumping enough gas to run the engine at idle, but not enough when you get up to speed.

In this case, you have replaced the pump, so unless you got a bad pump, not impossible, then its most likely the carb.

Right off the top of my head, it sounds like major float problems. Like the float is stuck.
At idle, it lets too much gas into the float chamber because it is not cutting off. But, since it is stuck in one position, it cannot open up enough when you start needing more gas and you run out at 30.

Having said all that, if the problems all started when you changed the fuel pump, I would take a hard look at it first.
If you changed the pump because of these problems, then its probably the carb.

 

[big pappa b]

The Jimmy I bought had a similar problem. Slow sppeds were fine but anything over 25mph it would lose power and want to stall. Someone had dumped a bunch of dirt and rocks in the gas tank when the previous opwner had it. It was clogging the fuel filter

 

[K5trs]

I replaced the pump because no fuel was getting to the carb, but then after it was done it turned out to be a heavily cracked fuel line. So how should I go about fixing the carb?

 

[Fordum]

Unless you are good with carbs, or know someone who is, your best bet is probably going to be a rebuilt.

They used to sell rebuild kits that were good and had good instructions, but I don't know if they still do.

It may be something simple like a piece of trash in the needle valve of the float, which would be simple to fix, and could probably be fixed with it on the truck.
But if you have never worked on a carb before, you might want to go rebuilt.

 

[K5trs]

So you think I can rebuild it myself? Would o'reilly or autozone have a rebuild kit? What if it just needs an adjustment?

 

[Fordum]

Depends on how handy you are. I rebuilt mine on the kitchen table one sunday night at midnight when I had to go to class the next morning.

And I did not have a kit.

But, I'm fairly good.

The kits come with instructions on rebuilding and adjusting. I don't know if any of the regular parts houses stock them anymore, you could call and ask.

Be sure to price a rebuild carb at the same time.

I note this outfit is still going strong.

http://www.carbkitsource.com/

You can get a price for one of their kits to give you an idea of cost. If it does not come with a float, be sure to order one also.

Nothing worse than tearing down a carb only to discover the float is bad and you don't have one.

If time is not critical, you could hold off on the float until you get it torn down. If yours is brass, you shake it to see if it has a leak and gas is in it.

If its plastic, its a little trickier, because it can absorb gas without showing it and sink.
In that case, you are supposed to weigh it, but its usually easier to just replace it.

 

[K5trs]

So you think the tear down is necessary? Should I just try cleaning it? I think i could follow instructions and rebuild, and Time isn't an issue. I couldn't figure out the price of a rebuild kit because idk what carb I have. So I'll need to figure out. And you don't think it's just a adjustment problem?

 

[Jester1]

You tube has about 5000 videos of carb rebuilds. And if it is quadrajet, a rebuild kit will run about 40 bucks. I think chief bought a reman quadrajet for the Brody mobile and it ran like 350-400 for it.

Start cheap and replace the filter for like 10 bucks and make sure you are not getting air sucked in anywhere on your new line. Check the sparkplugs as they will tell you if it rich or lean or not firing at all. Do you have a manual for your rig it will explain what the plugs should look like and will most likely have pics.

Also give the carb a good visual inspection and note anything that looks like the PO monkeyed with it (bent linkage, buggered screw heads) that will start you off on the cheap.

 

[diesel4me]

I'd check the choke,make sure it opens fully and stays open during acceleration....could be a choke pull-off has failed,and lets the choke butterfly close and flood it after it gets above idle speeds--being manifold vacuum operated,they will lose the vacuum signal above idle and can let the choke shut and smother the engine out...then once you pull over,it will start up again and the process repeats...it probably doesn't act up as much after starting it from a cold start I'd assume,as cold engines like richer mixtures..It could be the float or other carb problem too...i'd have someone old like me who remembers what carbs are look it over if you dont feel qualified,carbs are tricky to fix and you have to take a lot of them apart and put them together again RIGHT before you can feel confident about rebuilding one..they are not rocket science,but they do require good eyesight and precise measurements to get them working well...