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Dynamat Xteme

Greg72 said:
Have you ever played with RTA software that runs off a laptop?

I'd always wondered if they are any good. It probably depends a lot on the quality of microphone and sound card used, but since laptops are SO cheap these days it might be an easier way to get RTA capabilities without buying yet another piece of standalone equipment.... :thinking:



Paul, Sorry for hijacking your thread! :blush:
There is a software/hardware package out called pcRTA that's considered one of the best out there. It has all sorts of display info, real-time analyzation (of course) and its fully windows compatible. Problem is it runs anywhere from $800-$1200. I have not used the system myself personally (although read alot of data its exported ;) ), but I would love to find a copy of it myself some day. I opted to buy this Coustic RTA-33 as a stand-alone cheap alternative (was about $300 used).

Here's Linearx's info on it: http://www.linearx.com/products/analyzers/pcRTA/pcRTA_01.htm

edit: And yes, generally speaking the analysis performance of any RTA product will be based upon the quality of the microphone used.
 
Issue 90% solved.

Took the plastic panel off this afternoon and packed it with a couple layers of 1/2" thick carpet pad. There is still a little ratteling, but nothing like before !!!!!! I didn't think I'd get rid of 100% of the ratteling, but I can live with it now. You do NOT hear any ratteling inside the car, and only a little standing behind the car with the stereo cranked up. I spend less then 10 dollors for a 6'x6' piece of 1/2 thick carpet pad. Only used a 3'x2' section of it.
 
Z3PR said:
Took the plastic panel off this afternoon and packed it with a couple layers of 1/2" thick carpet pad. There is still a little ratteling, but nothing like before !!!!!! I didn't think I'd get rid of 100% of the ratteling, but I can live with it now. You do NOT hear any ratteling inside the car, and only a little standing behind the car with the stereo cranked up. I spend less then 10 dollors for a 6'x6' piece of 1/2 thick carpet pad. Only used a 3'x2' section of it.
Great job. :) Often times sound deadening can be accomplished by everyday household products, rather than the expensive specialized stuff, as you've demonstrated here.
 
There is a gap between the plastic body panel and the metal of the trunk. It's held on by (8) 7/32 bolts and (2) 10mm nuts. Anyways, I tried Dynamat, but it didn't want too stick too the plastic, so I thought what would work in there. I though about expantion foam, but I didn't want it getting in the lock/latch. The carpet padding just made sense. It smashed down nicely when I tightened the bolts. There is still a slight rattel, but it's only noticable if you're standing behind the car with the stereo turned up and a low bass note hits.
 
You could try Play-Doh next..... :)

Seriously, I think I remember the famous Richard Clark car (Grand National) had massive amounts of clay in his doors to add mass and dampen the panels... That guy was more off the deep-end than even some of the guys here!!!!
 
Greg72 said:
You could try Play-Doh next..... :)

Seriously, I think I remember the famous Richard Clark car (Grand National) had massive amounts of clay in his doors to add mass and dampen the panels... That guy was more off the deep-end than even some of the guys here!!!!
Using modeling clay (type that doesn't harden) is quite common for deadening. Its mainly used to 'smoosh' down in areas to add mass and/or rigidity. One of the more common uses for the clay is in building kick panels and other interios panels that will be subjected to heavy vibration, as its easy to compress down into the small areas and remain there. For larger areas like doors, I prefer my own little concrete mixture Ive devised over the years. My S10 Blazer currently has both doors and the tailgate stucco'd with concrete, and I do not plan on competing with it at all. How's that for off the deep end? :p:
 

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