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Dynatrac Inspired 14BFF?

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PsychoticDeadGuy

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I will be pulling my 14bff in a couple weeks or less and I wanted to build my own Dyna D60 but I dont feel like spending the money on a rear D60. So I am gonna build a Dyna 14bff.

So, if I cut the whole bottom section off of it and rebuild it with 3/8" plate and MIG welded with a TIG weld over it would it work good? (TIG to make it look purdy)

Are the Yukon or similar 5.13 ring gears the same as the 3.73 in outside diameter?

How much can I shave the ring gear without sacrificing the strength?

I know these are more of the extreme questions but I wanted to find out what the CK5 guys had to say. I have been spending more and more time at pirate because I am getting more into the exteme side of the sport. Still gotta represent CK5 and the full size Chevy though. Thanks.
 
PsychoticDeadGuy said:
I will be pulling my 14bff in a couple weeks or less and I wanted to build my own Dyna D60 but I dont feel like spending the money on a rear D60. So I am gonna build a Dyna 14bff.
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really dumb question I'm sure... but why? ff14b is about as good as it gets. If you want another inch of clearance, just buy tires 2" taller. :grin:

j
 
the housing is cast iron. do you have the ability to weld to cast iron? not easy and you have to carbon arc weld it. you cant mig it. between prehating the metal and whatnot, its not easy.
 
PsychoticDeadGuy said:
OK, I wont MIG it then, I can TIG or Stick weld it. If I stick weld it, what rod do I use?
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you should really do some research on it becuase its pretty indepth. ive never done it but tlaking to my dad (he used to be a millwright, was a welding specialist) its very hard even for expierienced guys to get proper penetration, preheat it enough, no cracks etc...
 
Alright, I understand that. I work in a welding shop. I mostly do TIG. But there are many certified Stick welders in there that could do it for me. I dont go back until monday and was just wondering if there was anyone here that knew what i needed to do.
 
THERE was a write up somewhere about a guy migging it up and plating it all in .....id do a serch for it here and on pirate . I dotn remember where i saw it but it was a good article .
 
85mudblazin said:
The housing is NOT cast iron, its cast steel. You can weld to it no problem.
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ooppppps!:doh: what i said still applies though...only to cast iron and not 14 bolts...
 
It is still good to pre-heat just for penatraction purposes. Just get it nice and hot and start welding. You will be amazed at how well it penatrates with the pre-heating.
 
I preheat everything that I weld when I am doing stick. It does help a lot. That link was awesome. That axle has 1" more clearance than my 10 bolt with 39.5" Boggers. I am definatly going to do it. Dont worry, the 10 bolt I have in front will be gone soon enough. No flaming.
 
here is mine. i have abour 1/8" clearance at the ring gear. i sticked it but i would not worry about MIGing it. i am installing a BTF truss but the main reason it for an point to attch a traction bar.


2587DSCN0093.JPG
2587DSCN0068.JPG
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MTBLAZER89 said:
Here is the link for somebody that got crazy clearancing the 14B:eek1:

http://www.rps4wd.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1107071496;start=0
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Yea but read the end of that thread carefully..... that guy is still chasing leaks and his housing is now flexing enough that the ring gear hits the lower plated area at times....

The ground clearance is sexy, but losing all the strength and integrity of the housing isn't.... :thinking: I'll betcha that eventually that axle folds in half starting right where that new lower plate is.... :deal:





This is one of those times where the cure might be worse than the disease.
 
personally, i dont like the idea of cutting out part of the pig, and attempting to weld it back together. just get out your grinder, and smooth everything out, install a good quality thick cover (probably good to have it on hand before you start grinding), and dont worry about the clearance. if you smooth it good enough, you should be able to drag it over just about anything, and not worry about ripping you lower plate off.
 
beater_k20 said:
personally, i dont like the idea of cutting out part of the pig, and attempting to weld it back together. just get out your grinder, and smooth everything out, install a good quality thick cover (probably good to have it on hand before you start grinding), and dont worry about the clearance. if you smooth it good enough, you should be able to drag it over just about anything, and not worry about ripping you lower plate off.
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thats exactly what i believe. what did he gain an inch at most? if you really care that much about ground clearance get a eaton, you can shave it to have more ground clearance than a dana 44. as long as your 14 bolt is smooth underneath you shouldnt have a problem with rocks.
 
Greg72 said:
Yea but read the end of that thread carefully..... that guy is still chasing leaks and his housing is now flexing enough that the ring gear hits the lower plated area at times....

The ground clearance is sexy, but losing all the strength and integrity of the housing isn't.... :thinking: I'll betcha that eventually that axle folds in half starting right where that new lower plate is.... :deal:





This is one of those times where the cure might be worse than the disease.
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yeh that is another reason i am trussing my pig. i trimmed just enough to stay out of the ring gear, a trim like i did is plenty enough. i'll post some picks when i get it put back together in a few weeks
 
I'd get an eaton before I'd go modifying a 14bff housing. I drag my 14 bolt over the rocks with 36" tires and I don't drag my eaton with 35's. You can use the guts of the 14bolt in an eaton too. There is of course, idiosyncrosies about the two, but if I was to do the K5 rear axle again, I would have looked for an Eaton, mainly because 4" lift and 36" tires is as far as I want to raise the COG.
 
Greg72 said:
Yea but read the end of that thread carefully..... that guy is still chasing leaks and his housing is now flexing enough that the ring gear hits the lower plated area at times....

The ground clearance is sexy, but losing all the strength and integrity of the housing isn't.... :thinking: I'll betcha that eventually that axle folds in half starting right where that new lower plate is.... :deal:





This is one of those times where the cure might be worse than the disease.
Click to expand...


I agree,I saw the write up on pirate and thought it sounded like something I would like to do to a 14bolt Im going to use.I printed all the info out and started to lay it out and fiqured by the time you add your plate back in there you have not gained that much at all.Plus you would be cutting into the webbing on your pinion bearing if you removed as much as they did!
Also read the link from here about the guy who cut his and is having some issues like the ring gear rubbing the cover when he puts the brakes on,just imagine crawling with a wheel off the ground would probably crack the welds on the outer edges.
I think a good truss would be a must,sounds like beater74 should have no problem with his.
 
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