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e-brake options?

T

Triaged

1/2 ton status
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I am going to install disc brakes (with Misfit's brackets) on my 14FF before it goes under my truck. I thought about using the caddy calipers but have heard that they don't hold too well. So here are some of the options I was thinking about:

1) Caddy calipers and a line lock
2) Driveshaft mounted e-brake
3) Just a line lock (which I would really not like to do)

For the Driveshaft e-brake I could:
A) Have to find a flange output for my 205 and sandwich a disc in the middle of the flange. Than I would have to get a mechanical caliper and fab up a mount for it.
B) Buy the kit and 1ton CV from High Angle Driveline ($$$ that I don't have)

I am looking for a cheep, powerfull, and relible solution...any advice?

'71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
 
I still like #4
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BE <font color=blue>AMERICAN</font color=blue> BUY <font color=blue>AMERICAN</font color=blue>!!!!

<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/geltyone>Webshots Pics.</a>
 
That must of been the front brakes only option??? LOL why not they do 80% of the stopping power. It's more fun if you have manual brakes too
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Sorry I can't help you Dan but i'm going to address the same thing in the future and also need the imfo.
Now for the dumb questions........
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1. I have never owned a 4 wheel disc brake car or truck so how do they do it? A pull up lever for e-brake would be a nice feature. maybe from a vette or?
2. Line locks seem like a great thing to have when working your truck around trails and rocks but how do they actually work? someone should do a write up on install.
I think it would be cool to lock a wheel and use it to pull you around a tight corner etc. but wouldn't it be tough on a locked diff.?
3. Wouldn't having a driveshaft e-brake need a lot of power to hold a truck with it's small dia. disk? and put strain on the drive train?
OK - dumb questions over.........

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<font color=red>[/b]"Rid'in HigH in my K5"
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<font color=blue>[/b]"8" Lift -<font color=purple>38.5's"
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Dan,

Maybe you should do what I'm going to do.....use the standard 3/4 Ton Front discs in the rear (Dana44 stuff), disconnect all those annoying e-brake cables and tensioning rods from the underside of the truck and throw them in the trash.....they shouldn't be able to tangle up in your leaf springs from there!
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Then make the promise to yourself to add the driveshaft e-brake mod when you finally figure out the driveshaft length you need anyway (there's probably some driveshaft work required)......eat LOTS of Mac&amp;Cheese to save money...maybe mow a few lawns for the neighbors..... ???

Anyway, that's my plan. If it helps, you can borrow from it.
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-Greg72

'72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
<font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
 
It sounds like you excluded the Caddy e-brake calipers...? They are $$$$ anyway. I am still messing with cable brackets so can't give you an idea on power - Steve can tho - his e-brake setup is complete.

What does Jesse say about the power of the dl e-brake?

Mike at Bent and Twisted said to use hand e-brake levers from small aircraft (!?!?). I said WTF but he insists he is not BSing me..... Stay tuned on this one cuz I plan to do the hand job :)

Dave

Rehab is for quitters.
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Daves-Pics>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Daves-Pics</a>
 
Compare prices on doing the Caddy calipers and line lock and then compare it to just regular calipers with the High Angle kit and I think you will find the difference is not that much at all.

See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
<font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
<font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
 
Strom Trooper (Dave)
Three styles of Parking brake or E-brake

1- The calipers are dual-purpose (like the caddy). The caliper piston works normaly with hydrolic pressure for service brakes. For E-brake opperation, the caliper piston is threaded, with an actuator the rotates the piston (unthreades) and forces it out against roter.
Advantage- Simple and addaptible, operates O.K..
Disaddvantage- Parking brake sticks/binds sometimes. Piston gets bound up. Low applie pressure, not enuff friction to hold.

2- Drum-in-hat style (current O.E. parking brake style). A roter with a drum inside. The service brakes are run threw the caliper. Parking brakes are drum-brake like.
Advantage- Simple operation, better holding (drum-brakes are self-engergizing), Both brakes are stand-alone and not interdependent.
Disadvantage- Complex assembly, requires a backing plate and a caliper bracket. Requires dissasembly to adj. parking brake.

3- Prop-shaft mounted parking brake. Can be drum or disk. Locking the drive shaft.
Advantage- Multiplies brakeing force with rear gears, so a heavy load can be held with less applied force (like in moterhomes).
Disadavantage- Only holds the shaft in postion, not the tires. If one tire was to slip, it maybe possible for the E-brake would not hold. Also, if something was to brake- down stream from the drive-shaft, there would be nothing to hold the load in position.

Line locs hold hydrolic pressure in the brake line and applie the normal service brakes. Possibly not street-legal parking brake sys. depending on local laws.

<font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
<font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
 
Does any one know what Jess' 205 e-brake setup would run (it said $249 on his sight so I guess I just need to know what the 1 ton CV would cost).

Also what does TSM charge for the caddy calipers? Don't they sell them with the springs and levers for the e-brake???

Thanks for all your sugestions. I am leaning in the direction of a driveshaft e-brake. I need to see if I could do it myself for cheeper before I fork over around $500 for the one from High Angle Driveline.



'71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
 
Isnt there some guys that adapted a snowmobile style brake onto the driveline? I know Ive seen some,.... just cant find them.
Mike


<font color=blue>Thumper
85 Fullsize Jimmy
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<font color=red>Aint Skeered!! </font color=red>
 
Thanks Eric for taking the time to write that up. whew!
All makes sence but can you use line locks in the rear and front with lockers? Stephen has them and it seems to work cool but I guess I was missing something. Seems like you would tear something up unless you disingauged the 4wd so you could lock only one wheel.??

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<font color=red>[/b]"Rid'in HigH in my K5"
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<font color=blue>[/b]"8" Lift -<font color=purple>38.5's"
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Line locks;
-First depress the brake pedal (applie presure)
-Engage the line lock (Blocks off pressure in the line)
So, If you wired it right, you could lock any-one of the four brakes, if you had line locks on all four brake lines.
If you had a open rear diff and locked the one rear tire, the other three tires would pivot around it. But, if you had a spool or Detroit lovker, it would still -try- to turn the tire that is suposed to be "locked". So I'm guessing, Stephan uses a line lc up front with a ARB.

As far as I know. The Line locs originated fom bracket racers, they would lock the front tires during a burn-out.

<font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
<font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Twiztid on 01/20/02 10:49 PM.</FONT></P>
 
Thats what I thought. Makes me think (4) line locks and 2 ARB's might not be a bad combo. Still looking at all options before I get the one ton in. Now if I could just find a dam 60!!!!!

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<font color=red>[/b]"Rid'in HigH in my K5"
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<font color=blue>[/b]"8" Lift -<font color=purple>38.5's"
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I'm thinking the same thing. So, along the same line (but in reverse), 4-wheel manual locking hubs would be helpfull too, being able to un-lock any tire as needed. Since a un-powered tire has 100% of the avalible traction needed to keep from slideing side-ways, like on a off-camber pass.

<font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
<font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
 
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