CK5
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E-Brake question.

Have you tried adjusting them?
I know those old eldorado's weren't exactly a light weight vehicle.
 
Is that something you read or personal experience? I've accidentally left my line lock on a few times for weeks at a time and it's still had pressure every time.

I can answer that.
It's right there in the instructions that come from the manufacture.
Probably has more to do with liability on their part but it's enough to make you second guess buying one.
 
I can answer that.
It's right there in the instructions that come from the manufacture.
Probably has more to do with liability on their part but it's enough to make you second guess buying one.

I can tell you from almost a decade of personal experience, along with a bunch of friends with the same, that the "bleed off" thing is mostly a rumor. They aren't meant to be long term brakes, so don't trust them as such. If your lock bleeds in 60 seconds, it belongs in the trash.

As for following the instructions, what would the 70's Cadillac engineer say about using their calipers on your full size truck? :whistle:
 
You are right Chris, I have no experience with line locks. I have however read it many times. I also would rather have a mechanical system rather then rely on line locks but, I am just an end user, no pro like you. I do want to say, on another note, that I am in love with my brand new installed front 4 link kit from ORD. I am sure there's no other wagon like mine with this kit on it. Also the cross over steering is awesome. You will see it soon in my favorite 4 wheel mag. Thanks
 
Here is another one that says the same thing (circled in blue).
Liability, or unreliability?

image-38.jpg
 
I want to put discs on my Dana 70 HD, but haven't figured out what to do about the ebrake either. I use my brake all the time when I'm hooking up trailers, making quick stops, opening gates to pastures, etc. I also want more stopping power for the rear axle (which is the main reason I want to do the swap)

I've kind of had my eye on this t case brake from tsm. Does anybody have any experience with these? Do these mechanical calipers have enough clamping force to hold a truck and trailer that weighs up to 30k?
http://www.tsmmfg.com/np205.html

I've also thought about swapping in an AAM axle out of a newer Chevy or Dodge with the integrated park brake
 
Ok, so don't shoot me for not having the full scoop of info, but i have held a set of brackets that were supposed to adapt late model rear brakes to the old 14 bolt. The company that sent them to me, (ordered and paid for by a buddy for his truck) was Right Gear and Axle. www.rightgear.com I do not find anything on their website, and we have not as yet, installed them on his axle. The phone # is 1-800-99right, or 831-424-3715. I don't know if they make them, resell them, or what.
 
I don't see why they wouldn't work so long as the mounting holes line up and you use the right spacers where the bracket mounts on the axle. It's just trial and error when mixing and matching like we do, I was just asking what others have done, to see if there was a simple cheap solution. I figured why waste money experimenting when I'm sure someone else already has the answers.

I think a $50 hydraulic hand brake is probably the best solution, but I was trying to avoid plumbing the brake lines into and back out of the cab. Keep in mind I don't even have a pedal.
 
Something else you could do is get a forklift style handbrake assembly and cable, drill a hole in your brake pedal and route the cable through the firewall and connect it to the pedal. Then, when you need an emergency brake, press the regular brake pedal and pull up on the handbrake, thereby using your factory brakes as a parking brake.
 
See.... Something else I would have never thought of.
I guess a person could do the same with a twist type throttle cable that has the big red quick release button in the middle.

It would surely be better than the ol' stick wedged between the pedal and the seat trick.
 

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