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easiest (cheapest) way to get 6 inch lift?

K30Blazer

K30Blazer

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I currently have a four inch lift on my 87 Jimmy with blocks in the rear and springs up front. I run 35's and have some rubbing. I am thinking of going to 36 or 37 and will be doing some more trimming than I currently have.

I am looking at a 2.5 inch shackle flip for the rear combined with 4 inch springs and adding 6 inch shackles up front with my 4 inch springs. The shackle taking me up another 2 inches.

I hear a lot of talk about 52's and 60's etc for springs. From what I understand that is referring to eye to eye measurement? Is there a junkyard or cheaper spring I can buy to get me the four inches I would need in the back?
 
4wheelinfury said:
I currently have a four inch lift on my 87 Jimmy with blocks in the rear and springs up front. I run 35's and have some rubbing. I am thinking of going to 36 or 37 and will be doing some more trimming than I currently have.

I am looking at a 2.5 inch shackle flip for the rear combined with 4 inch springs and adding 6 inch shackles up front with my 4 inch springs. The shackle taking me up another 2 inches.

I hear a lot of talk about 52's and 60's etc for springs. From what I understand that is referring to eye to eye measurement? Is there a junkyard or cheaper spring I can buy to get me the four inches I would need in the back?
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Well, first things first...
Using a 6" shackle in the front wont get you up to 2 more inches of lift. Maybe about 1- 1.5 inches max. That and your pinion angle is going to go to sh*t.

52"s up front will give you about 4 to 5" and a lot more flex. If you wheel a lot and dont daily drive the truck 52's are the way to go.

If your just looking for a little more lift on the cheap just to help clear the bigger tire, I'd just put in 1" body lift and call it done. But if you deff want a lil more suspension on the cheap, then I'd say Offroad Design 4" shackle flip in the rear and zero-rates front and rear.
 
Easiest way (cheapest) to get a 6" lift ??

Put one or all of my ex-girlfriends under your tires :doah:
 
okay, someone explain to me what zero rates. I need to learn about zero rates vs 52's vs whatever. Where can I do some reading?
 
38377k5 said:
Don't swap to 52's unless you have crossover steering.
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Got a question about that myself...if I do the 52" swap is the crossover steering something that I can do a little later? I know that the stock steering can suck when wheeling, but will it work (even if it leaves a lot to be desired)with the 52s? I'm just having to do this thing a little at a time.
 
OffRoad said:
cheap? sawsall! that's easy.:D
Click to expand...

Yep, just cut more out of the fenders.

Plenty of guys run 38's or bigger with only 4-5 inches of lift. 37's would be easy.
 
gibby2268 said:
Got a question about that myself...if I do the 52" swap is the crossover steering something that I can do a little later? I know that the stock steering can suck when wheeling, but will it work (even if it leaves a lot to be desired)with the 52s? I'm just having to do this thing a little at a time.
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No, 52's push your front axle forward about 2 inches IIRC. You have to do the cross over steering at the same time
 
heres my question with the 52s why cant you just move the shackle back instead of the front hanger to keep the axle in the stock location if you dont want it moved forward then you could keep your stock steering for a bit i know the stock would suck for flex but couldnt this be done just my opinion i have never done a 52 swap but am lookin into it:confused: oh and put some limit straps on it so your stock steering arm doesnt get snapped
 
if you move just the shackle hanger back it will move your axle back. you have to move the front hanger foward even to keep it in the stock location. if you move the front hanger directly under the radiator support mount it will allow you to keep your axle in stock location but there is some debate as to whether or not the radiator support mount is strong enough. personally I think if you want to do the 52 swap and keep your axle in the stock location get some b-52s from kurt at diy.

its basically a new mount with several different holes. you remove both the spring hanger and radiator support mount and the different mouning holes allow you to move it foward several inches at a time or keep it in the stock location.
 
okay, so for me to get 5-6 inches this is what I am considering. 4 inch axle flip in the rear with my stock 52's and a zero rate for another inch or so. Up front, I have 4 inches and can run a zero rate or get 52's and B-52's from DIY4x.

I am trying to stay away from a body kit.

Does this sound decent?
 
52's up front are going to be really soft and flexible. do you drive it daily or is it strictly a wheeler?
 
strictly a wheeler. I have heard that I need crossover up front. Would I be better off just adding zero rates to my 4 inch springs?
 
4wheelinfury said:
okay, so for me to get 5-6 inches this is what I am considering. 4 inch axle flip in the rear with my stock 52's and a zero rate for another inch or so. Up front, I have 4 inches and can run a zero rate or get 52's and B-52's from DIY4x.

I am trying to stay away from a body kit.

Does this sound decent?
Click to expand...

Shackle flip in the rear will replace your lift blocks, but still leave you with 4" of lift over stock so you'll need to gain another 2" of lift somehow. Cheapest way would be a 2" body lift, but you can compromise with zero rates front & rear to add an inch, then add a 1" body lift to that. I know you don't really want to run a body lift, but it will allow you to keep your current lift shocks instead of having to buy new ones and that alone will save you $150 or so. Plus that's not taking into consideration the possibility of needing longer brake hoses or driveshafts. Stepping up to a lift taller than 4" requires much more parts/modifications/$$$.

4wheelinfury said:
strictly a wheeler. I have heard that I need crossover up front. Would I be better off just adding zero rates to my 4 inch springs?
Click to expand...

I say do the rear shackle flip, add zero rates front & rear, and do a little trimming. Or if you're not too attached to the sheetmetal, just do the shackle flip, bypass the zero rates, & trim some more.
 
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