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edelbrock carb on a CCC truck

COCHEV

COCHEV

1/2 ton status
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my buddy has an 86 blazer with the CCC crap on it. he has a new crate motor in it and he wants to put on an edelbrock carb. will he have any issues with the puter and the electronic controled timing if he removes the ccc q jet? i'm sure the ses light will pop on, but will it affect his timing at all? thanks,

jason
 
It might. I know when I had the carb & dist. rebuilt on my 85 at a local speed shop they took out the EST crap out. The carb was rebuilt to not use the electric controls and the distributor was rebuilt to act like a normal distributor and not use the EST stuff.

I don't know for sure, but I think if you rebuilt the dist with a module from a standard HEI ignition and disconnected the EST computer and Edelbrock carb would be fine. You might have to disconnect the SES light so it doesn't get annoying though.
 
Worst you could do is get a distributor from an older truck that didn't have the EST computer and swap that in with the carb. should be fine. If you removed the EST computer the SES light might not go on too. Just another thought.

Harley
 
Gotta replace distributor to remove the CCC system.

Personally I don't think that system is so bad, it's not much worse than TBI, about the same theory, except metering rods controlled by the ECM, and mechanical fuel pump/low pressure system.

AIR is the big engine bay clutterer. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
so does the computer adjust the timing based on what the carb is doing? and if so would it run incorrect timing with a different carb on there?
 
I am the dude that has swapped out the CCC system on my 85K5 in favor of an edelbrock Q-jet. I just slapped on a new Q-jet, vaccuum advance dist. and pulled all the extra wiring out of the way to the side. THe main issue is that it isn't smog legal here in Cali to do, but it does run better IMHO. I just worked on Hipinion's 85' the other day and it reminded me of how hard those computer Carbs are to work on. Your check engine light will come on and stay on permanently with everything unplugged but a simple "popping out" of the bulb fixes that.
 
Yes, computer controls timing. Without a different distributor, you will have fixed timing, and it sucks.
 
Personally I would get a Carter style Edelbrock carburetor over a Quadro-junk carburetor. Quadro-jets have four stages of operation Idle, Off Idle, Main, and Full Throttle. The Off Idle stage is where a problem always comes in with a Quadro-junk, which causes them to stumble and choke when the throttle is punched.

The Carter style of Edelbrock carburetor only has three stages Idle, Main, and Full Throttle, which makes them less complicated for performance engines, and responds well to nailing the throttle. 99% of the time the Carter style Edelbrock carburetors work perfect right out of the box with no adjustments.

You will have to get an early model four-pin connecter HEI GM ignition with vacuum advance. I cannot remember how the wiring connects, but if you search the Internet I am sure you can find a four-pin HEI GM distributor change over article with a wiring diagram for it. The vacuum advance will need to be connected to manifold vacuum and not port vacuum.

Also, ditch the timing light when comes to setting the ignition timing, unless the timing chain and camshaft are factory GM parts. First, use a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum, (2) advance the timing until you reach maximum vacuum, (3) back it off 1/2 an inch vacuum, (4) lock down the distributor clamp.

I am assuming you know how to install a distributor, but if you don't

1. Remove the number 1 cylinder spark plug.

2. Place your thumb over the spark plug hole.

3. Crank the engine until the compression stroke blows on your thumb.

4. place a socket on the harmonic damper bolt, and line up the timing mark on the harmonic damper with the timing chain cover timing tab '0' mark.

4. Install distributor with the Rotor cap pointing at the number one spark plug wire and your done.
 
Plenty of people running Q-jets that would disagree. No reason to get in a pissing contest, but if you can race Q-jets (and people do, successfully) you can do about anything you want with them.

"Problem" with them, as with most everything people complain about, is lack of effort in tuning. As good as the Q-jet is at "limiting" itself to whatever engine they are put on, there are so many variables with these carbs (and it is evidenced by how precisely GM set each one up for each and every drive train they were used with) that unless you set it up exactly how the vehicle likes it best, you will get less than optimal performance. No carb will work perfectly just bolting it on, there are too many variables.

Buy Doug Roes Quadrajet book, read it, and tell me if you think buying a one-size fits all (Edelbrock for instance) Q-jet will work optimally. Just because people can't or won't tune, doesn't mean something is a piece of junk. I've had nothing BUT Quadrajets on my carbed GM vehicles, and each one I worked on "perfecting" operated flawlessly and without anything I could complain about.

They might not be the best strip carb out there, or the best flowing carb in the world, or the easiest to tune, but there aren't many carbs you can buy a rebuild kit for $20, that will perform off-road like a Q-jet.
 
how bout the lock up tork converter. did the computer controle that too on these years or not? thanks for all the replys /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Seperate circuit for torque converter. I thought VSS was tied in, probably isn't though.

There is a vacuum switch on the firewall that controls it.

IMO the best thing to do with a CCC vehicle is to unplug everything, and tuck it all up inside the fender. As soon as you cut something, you will realize it was important.
 
[ QUOTE ]
how bout the lock up tork converter. did the computer controle that too on these years or not? thanks for all the replys /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Dorian is correct for some vehicles but if your is a Cali model like mine there is no vaccuum doohicky on the firewall, my lock-up was controlled by the computer. When I swapped in my 406 and unplugged everything I no longer had lockup. No big deal IMHO, It shifted much better afterwards like a normal th350 or 400 just with an extra gear. Make sure you have a good cooler though because lock up helps keep it cooler. You can get a switch from Bowtie OD to wire up your lockup without the computer or if you are good enough with electrical work you can just get the parts at an electrical shop and do it yourself like I'm doing.
 
Yes, good call, thanks for catching that. I'm not super familiar with the CCC trucks, anything with a 700R4 had lockup, so it looks like the trucks that were 700R4 and CCC were locked up via the ECM. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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