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Edelbrock off road needles and seats

The 7/16 is what is printed on the paper that comes with the needles. 1 1/4" drop is what I got from the link to edelbrocks page earlier in the thread. Are you having problems too Jiminy? I am gonna try and hack with it tomorrow morning. Let ya know what happens.
 
I am running a 1406 on my truck and had a hesitation during takeoff as well. What finally fixed it for me was going one step up on the rod springs. I had other issues which i also remedied with going one step rich on the jets as well. Now I have no issues at all with my carb until i get above 10k feet at which point I have to swap in the lean rods in order to keep the engine running. Oh I also run the off road needle and seat set and I have had no flooding problems since
 
The tech made no attempt to explain the discrepancies which I pointed out in my e-mail to him. So, there you have it. Edelbrock tech at it's best. If I have any additional problems with the float setting I'll post them.
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I've never called Edelbrock tech, guess I have'nt missed much. :D
 
Ok, so I reset the float levels (with preloading the springs), and removed the plugs from the bowl crossover. It started right up, no problems. Pulled it onto a little hill here at the apt (prolly 25-30 degrees) and no stalls or flooding evident. I have a somewhat rough idle, but like I said earlier, no way to fix that w/o a tach. Plus this motor is a 1980 crate motor, so its prolly on its way to needing a rebuild somewhere down the road. Thanks to all for the tips and tricks. I will be on the trail Feb 5, so I'll post up a report afterwards.
 
Sweet!!!

Seems like pre-loading the floats makes a big diference. You can adjust your air fuel mixture by ear if your careful and still get very close. Here are the instructions straight from the carb manual. IMS=Idle mixture screws. Idle Speed Screw = throttle position adjustment

1. Fully warm the engine and ensure choke is fully open

2. Air cleaner in place

3. Set desired idle speed

4. Adjust the IMS (idle mixture screw) on ONE side to get the maximum possible rpm. Don not go rich beyond the maximum speed point. Before you begin note the idle mixture screw position and keep track of the number of turns you adjust, just in case you screw up you can go back to the beginning. Bizee - this means you back out on the idle mixture screw counterclockwise 1/4 turn at a time until you get the highest idle speed. Don't go past the max idle - you'll hear it when the idle does not increase any further and that's when you stop backing out.

5. If the above changed the idle speed more than 40 RPM, then readjust the idle speed screw.

6. Adjust the side OPPOSITE of that in step 4 to maximum RPM.

7. Reset the idle speed screw if needed

8. Carefully trim each IMS (Idle Mixture Screw) to again get the maximum idle RPM

9. Now - go leaner (clockwise) with the Idle Mixture Screw just enough to get a 20 RPM drop in speed. Ok Bizee, listen carefully for an idle speed drop when you do this. The second you hear it drop STOP. I usually do this on one side only and STOP.

10. Reset the idle speed screw to the desired RPM

11. This is the Lean Best Idle Set. Setting richer than this will not improve the idle quality or performance, but could tend to foul plugs.
 
Awesome.. Those Dwell Tachs are only like $24, so I might pick one up and use it to do that. What is a target idle RPM for a 350 ci motor, and only mod is headers? Jiminy, you ROCK! Thanks a bunch.
 
Well, our work is done here, back to the lounge.:laugh:
Actually, I'm out to the garage, it's rebuild the p.s. pump day for me. I know it wont be time effective, but much cheaper than a reman pump. :doah:
 
BizeeB65 said:
Awesome.. Those Dwell Tachs are only like $24, so I might pick one up and use it to do that. What is a target idle RPM for a 350 ci motor, and only mod is headers? Jiminy, you ROCK! Thanks a bunch.
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The average recommended idle speed is 800 RPM. If you have a factory emission label under the hood or on the air cleaner it will tell you. To be honest I set my idle where I am comfortable with it. I run mine little higher than the factory spec, 800 just seems a tad low to me. Try the recommended speed and if you don't like it you can play around until you get what you want.

The dwell tachs are great, if you have your original hei distributor make sure to pick up a tach you can clip to a plug wire. The older dwell tachs clip to the distributor terminal which works well on older coils or aftermarket MSD style coils where you can access that contact. Remember the HEI style has a plug-in and you can't directly access the dist terminal.




theperfectgarage said:
Well, our work is done here, back to the lounge.:laugh:
Actually, I'm out to the garage, it's rebuild the p.s. pump day for me. I know it wont be time effective, but much cheaper than a reman pump. :doah:
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Thanks again for the help Cory, good luck with your Steering Box. It sounds like they are a pain if you don't know how to re-install the worm gear and ball bearings.
 
***UPDATE***

Havent tuned the carb in 2 months because of some other issues...

Tranny came out and was rebuild last month, and this past weekend the front end got new ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, and wheel bearings.

Also decided to do a valve adjustment while she was immobile, and to my surprise I found a broken rocker on the #5 intake, just laying on the head, and bent rod on #3 intake. That could explain some of my stalling out and flooding problems. With that fixed, the Truck is at the shop now getting the line pressure adjusted, and should be back this week. Then back to carb tuning!!! WOOHOO!
 
BizeeB65 said:
...to my surprise I found a broken rocker on the #5 intake, just laying on the head, and bent rod on #3 intake. That could explain some of my stalling out and flooding problems.
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Kind of like pulling a camshaft and seeing a few flat lobes - "that might be significant".

So, no intake charge to one cyl and a reduced charge to the other. I think with those fixed, it's likely to run just a teeny bit better. Let us know how it goes.
 
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