CK5
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wonder how i am going to drill the carb hat for the MAT sensor and make it work?
i wish my brain would stop thinking about this
 
He's probably just going by the current list of approved coils. I just asked the PF4 board. Lets see what they have to say since thats what I run.
https://forums.edelbrock.com/forum/pro-flo-efi/pro-flo-4/37155-any-reason-not-to-run-msd-blaster-3

Same exact specs:

Blaster 3
Brand:MSD Ignition
Manufacturer's Part Number:8223
Coil Style:Remote mount
Primary Resistance:0.700 ohms
Coil Internal Construction:Oil-filled
Coil Wire Attachment:Male/HEI
Coil Color:Red
Maximum Voltage:45,000 V
Turns Ratio:100:1
Secondary Resistance:4.70K ohms
Inductance:8.00 mH
Peak Current:140 mA
Spark Duration:350 uS

Blaster 2
Brand:MSD Ignition
Manufacturer's Part Number:8202
Coil Style:Remote mount
Primary Resistance:0.700 ohms
Coil Internal Construction:Oil-filled
Coil Wire Attachment:Female/Socket
Coil Color:Red
Maximum Voltage:45,000 V
Turns Ratio:100:1
Secondary Resistance:4.70K ohms
Inductance:8.00 mH
Peak Current:140 mA
Spark Duration:350 uS

BTW that PF4 tech board is great for questions for the techs. Sign up when you get a chance.
 
For the IAT sensor hole, I used a stepper bit. Its on the back side of my rounded velocity stack air cleaner.

You can see it plugged in the back here in this pic.
20190323_155408-jpg.347736


96275_W3.jpg
 
For the IAT sensor hole, I used a stepper bit. Its on the back side of my rounded velocity stack air cleaner.

You can see it plugged in the back here in this pic.
my concern is the aluminum is about an 1/8 thick
 
If you want a screw in style, then you can do this and weld a bung on your carb hat.

Edelbrock offers a GM style 3/8" NPT air temp sensor, #3588 or you can use a GM 25036751 or equivalent. The air temp sensor should be installed immediately ahead of the throttle body.

tempsensorair.jpg
 
If its not forced induction, the standard IAT rubber gromment is fine for 1/8"
 
what size so i can go get one?

Its in the instructions I posted eariler. 3/4"

quote-
Mount the air temperature sensor in the air cleaner base. Drill the air cleaner base with a ¾ drill and deburr any sharp edges. Install the air temperature sensor grommet in the base, then slide sensor into grommet. Connect the main harness air temp connector to the sensor.

Also, both PF4 tech's on the forum said the Blaster 3 coil is fine to run. I bet you talked to someone that was just going off the list of approved coils. Blaster 3 is not on that list but still fine to run. Either is fine just personal preference. I've used both. I had a difficult time trying to make the old style coil terminal work with the newer HEI terminal post on the cap. Had to custom make the wire and didn't like how the coil wire flowed.

quote-
The MSD #8223 Blaster 3 Coil should be fine to run. It is essentially the same thing as a #8202 Blaster 2 but with a male tower terminal instead of female.terminal
 
Its ALOT to take in. But not too difficult.
 
i took my stock gm 4 barrel air cleaner and drilled the hole on the bottom of the snorkel tube and popped in the rubber grommet and sensor . its still there to this day no problems.

i still have the snorkel tube up to the rad support and on the plastic baffle screwed in the rad support . so i am getting cold air and true intake temp of whats going in the throttle body to the engine .
 
Hole saw. Find a grommet that fits the wire good and size the saw accordingly

mine is a 77, and I cut it too high. Maybe one of the guys with a TBI era truck can tell you the factory measurements to the location of the hole
 
May or may not help. When I did TPI I am pretty sure I ran mine through the heater hole (not positive due to the fact it COULD have had a hole for ESC since it's an '85 tub).

I dont like adding holes and what not, most of the firewall grommets on these trucks are way larger than they need to be for how many wires they put through them anyway.
 
My ac and heater work so I’m going to get a 2 inch hole saw and use that clean up the burs with dermal and make it work.
 

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