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EGR Delete (TBI) & Custom chips - Info/Links

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4x4chvy

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This thread is NOT FOR ARGUING about what EGR does or if it sucks or whether deleting it has any benefits.
This thread is only here to save people time, aggravation and money by providing links to QUALITY parts & services.

Most of the pollution crap has been off my truck for years. I finally deleted the EGR valve and EGR solenoid. Because my Blazer is TBI - I had a hard time finding a Block Off Plate that lined up with the bolt holes in the GM TBI manifold (Ya, the carb'd EGR block off plates are cheap and easy to find... but they DON'T work for TBI.)
...and I needed someone who knew wtf when programming chips.

This guy Jim is a one man machine shop and does outstanding quality work:
http://www.custombilletworks.com/products.php
(541) 760-7292 and he returns calls.

This guy programs custom chips for Performance & Towing. He'll delete the EGR off your chip so your truck isn't throwing codes at you. He will program you a custom chip for your modded truck.
http://www.tbichips.com/truckmods.htm

He also has a store on ebay.
 
Block off plate can be made with 1/8th plate, a cut off tool (or a hacksaw will work), a drill, and a couple drill bits. If you don't posess some basic fab tools and skills then follow the link above to have one made, otherwise you can make one in about 20 minutes including a 5 minute coffee break. :D

But, to have the chip reprogrammed, I would have to send my chip out to TBI chips right? Wait for it to be done and sent back? That leaves me without a truck for 'x' amount of time. Or does he have chips in stock that can be swapped out? Maybe it's worth sending him an email...

I already deleted my EGR and made a block off plate and blocked off the vacuum port. Every once in a while at cruising speed the CEL will pop on and will only stay on till the truck is shut off. Somewhat annoying but I can live with it for now.
 
MT86K5 - Yup, dunnit already (or I wouldn't have posted it). Is workin' awesome! Wish I had taken the EGR crap off a long time ago, when I pulled off the smog pump, cats, & the rest of that nonsense.


496TRUCK - Good deal for you if you can do quality work and have the right tools. I had a buddy cut me plates out of alum, then steel. Neither one was *pretty* but I coulda lived with the Caucasian Modification if worked. It didn't. They kept leaking. Got sick of fcking with it and got a good, solid (& fancy lookin') one for $15 from the CustomBillet guy.
Done and Done :waytogo:
 
I suppose you could mail off your chip......if your truck isn't your daily driver and you don't need or want a better chip.
I got a few ECm's with stock, HyperTech & custom chips (not custom for my truck) sitting around from parts trucks, but I neeed the TowMaster chip he makes. I just asked him to delete the EGR off the TowMaster (no extra charge). Had the chip within a week, no problems with it and it works exactly as advertised.
 
I wasn't concerned with looks on the EGR plate but 15 bucks is a good deal.

Never really considered a better chip as the rest of my engine is stock. And at this point I'm on the fence to do a 5.3 or 6.0 swap. So, we'll see.

Thanx for the additional info though!
 
Well, like he said there is a lot of discussions about the pros and cons of EGR.
It doesn't help that the results of having one have changed over the years.
Probably a lot of the reason for the discussion.

For instance, I predate EGR.
When it first came out, you could usually get a noticeable performance improvement by removing it.
Been there, done that.
But that was because of the way it was implemented.

If its on at idle, the engine is not going to idle worth a darn.
On at WOT, you lose power.

So ideally you only want it on at part throttle. The mechanical methods of doing that back in the day were crude or nonexistent, so it made most cars run poorly.

The only purpose for having it in the first place was to reduce NOx emissions.
Well, maybe a little to clear up any unburned fuel.

When you have part of the combustion charge being taken up by burned gases, the flame tempreture is lower and NOx is reduced.

Nowadays, the computers do a much better job of controlling when its on, so the performance hit is much reduced.

BUT, if you remove it, and do nothing else, two bad things can happen.
Three, if you count NOx going up.......

First, you will get a check engine code.
Depending on the computer program, your performance may be reduced because of the code.
Second, since the flame temp is higher at part throttle, then you are more likely to have ping.
Naturally, if it keeps pinging, you can get engine damage. If the knock sensor is present and hears it, the computer will retard the timing and reduce performance and/or gas mileage.

Higher test gas will help, but costs more money.

The solution, of course, is a reprogrammed or programmable chip. The part of the programming that opens the EGR and checks it is removed so no codes are set.
The computer no longer even knows EGR exists.
Plus the timing can be tweaked to stop the pinging without the draconian reduction normally caused by the knock sensor.

Of course while the reprogrammers can do an amazing job just from questioning you about your setup, the best way is to get a chip reprogrammed that is as close as they can make it and then fine tune it yourself with a tuner.

You can watch the knock count and play with the timing and other things to get it running the best.

Lots more work than just leaving the EGR in place, but also more fun.

Personally only, if I were building an engine from scratch today, and had no inspection worries, I would build it without the EGR.
Less to go wrong.

But its hooked up on all my vehicles because I am to lazy to bother with them for a small amount of possible gain.

If I were doing an engine rebuild........It would depend on the vehicle. I would not touch it on my Mercedes. Way too complicated computer system for me to fool with for with for too little gain.

My old Ford truck........Well, the AIR pump already had a fatal accident, but the weird EGR is still hooked up........
So far......
 
To be quite honest, I only removed mine for cost reasons. EGR leaking, ruck running like crap, no money to buy one, but I have steel laying around and tools. Block off plate was made and haven't looked back.
 
"There are hundreds of cleaning $olution$ available on the market to remove the carbon deposit clog$ caused by EGR valves."

Do a Google image search for "EGR Carbon".

Other than emission testing requirements ... I've personally never seen (or seen proof of) any gains to having it. The BIG advantage to not having EGR is no soot getting pumped back into the motor thru the exhaust.
Once the engine gets mileage on it and gets f'ked up with carbon buildup because of the EGR, all that buildup is going to restrict air and fuel flow enough to make mileage and performance worse.
How is that "helping the environment", your truck, or your wallet?
Pumping exhaust back into in your intake coats everything in soot and over time you get a wicked amount of buildup on the back of the valves and intake ports. Not to mention the potential for stuck valves, and how the noxious exhaust fumes could kill a Zombie horde.
:zombie18:

For all of you who love emissions testing more than your old Chevy's...that's your choice. My choice was to leave NH because they went Nazi and changed the lift laws, making my truck illegal, after 7 yrs of it being legally registered there. I now choose to only live in states/places with no lift laws and no emission testing. (and...no income tax and reasonable weapon laws...but that's a different thread, lol).
 
4x4chvy said:
"There are hundreds of cleaning $olution$ available on the market to remove the carbon deposit clog$ caused by EGR valves."

Do a Google image search for "EGR Carbon".

Other than emission testing requirements ... I've personally never seen (or seen proof of) any gains to having it. The BIG advantage to not having EGR is no soot getting pumped back into the motor thru the exhaust.
Once the engine gets mileage on it and gets f'ked up with carbon buildup because of the EGR, all that buildup is going to restrict air and fuel flow enough to make mileage and performance worse.
How is that "helping the environment", your truck, or your wallet?
Pumping exhaust back into in your intake coats everything in soot and over time you get a wicked amount of buildup on the back of the valves and intake ports. Not to mention the potential for stuck valves, and how the noxious exhaust fumes could kill a Zombie horde.
:zombie18:

For all of you who love emissions testing more than your old Chevy's...that's your choice. My choice was to leave NH because they went Nazi and changed the lift laws, making my truck illegal, after 7 yrs of it being legally registered there. I now choose to only live in states/places with no lift laws and no emission testing. (and...no income tax and reasonable weapon laws...but that's a different thread, lol).
Click to expand...

When you coming to Texas?
 
:waytogo: Right on!
I was about headed thataway when I lost 2nd/OD in my 700R4.
Swapped it out with the rebuilt one I keep handy, took it for a test drive and found out a head was cracked....... F******ck!
Put a new engine in and I'll be on my way shortly. Plenty of CDL-A Heavy Haul jobs there, and most of TX still knows what "Freedom" means.
 
4x4chvy said:
This guy programs custom chips for Performance & Towing. He'll delete the EGR off your chip so your truck isn't throwing codes at you. He will program you a custom chip for your modded truck.
http://www.tbichips.com/truckmods.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOWM...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Click to expand...

I personally don't like the method used to delete the EGR by some TBI Chip programmers. To correctly delete the EGR function from the chip, you need to program many parameters. Some TBI Chip programmers only eliminate the EGR error code "Check Engine" light from coming on in the chip programming.

My method to correctly eliminate the EGR from the chip program is to set the "EGR ON" speed to 255 MPH and then set the "EGR OFF" speed to 252 MPH. Sometimes the ECM will see a glitch of 255 MPH, so it's possible the EGR could come on, but having the EGR OFF speed set to 252 MPH will then turn off the EGR should a glitch happen. I also set the EGR ON Temperature to 310 F, and EGR OFF Temperature to 300 F, for the same possible glitch reason.

Ever drive a TBI vehicle and have something weird happen? I've seen data logs actually showing vehicle speed of 255 MPH. The TBI vehicle will act weird if it thinks the vehicle is going 255 MPH, even if for only a couple seconds.:doah:

Most TBI Chip programmers know about the Fuel Tables the ECM uses when the EGR is either "ON or OFF. I've wondered why some chip programmers do not take the time to correctly set the EGR ON / OFF fuel tables when EGR is eliminated?:dunno:


dave w
 
"TBI vehicle will act weird if it thinks it's going 225 mph":haha::haha::haha:
Haven't got to the "Let the Beatings Begin" stage with the new engine...but I can tell you that the old one, with nearly 400k miles and a cracked head - couldn'ta done 70 mph if ya threw it out of a plane.

So far, no problems, no codes and no weirdness with the chip programmed by tbichips.com but if I do have any - I'll be right back here to let everyone know to and to delete the link to it.
 
This is one of the parameters needed to program a PROM without EGR.

For a 2 bbl TBI:

BPW = 1461.5 * (VOL/RATE)

VOL = Vol of 1 Cylinder in liters
RATE = Injector flow in gms/sec

dave w

7747 BPW.jpg
 
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