Muddytazz
1 ton status
I'm throwing a EGR failure code. Is it most always the EGR? I'm working on a 89 S10 4.3L. What other possibilities could it be if not the EGR valve itself.
CK5
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EGR Valve
- Thread starter Muddytazz
- Start date
Does it have an EGR solenoid by chance?
This might help you diagnose it:
Code 32- A egr failure will set this code. Either a faulty egr valve, egr temp. switch or the egr control solenoid. . When the egr solenoid is operating properly, the ecm will activate it, allowing vacuum to open the egr valve, this in turn will allow the hot exhaust gases to circulate through the egr valve, and the egr temp. switch will heat up until it reaches its activation temperature, will close and send s grounded signal back to the ecm telling it the conditions have been met. If the switch is closed on start up or does not close when the operating parameters are met, this code will be set.
This might help you diagnose it:
Code 32- A egr failure will set this code. Either a faulty egr valve, egr temp. switch or the egr control solenoid. . When the egr solenoid is operating properly, the ecm will activate it, allowing vacuum to open the egr valve, this in turn will allow the hot exhaust gases to circulate through the egr valve, and the egr temp. switch will heat up until it reaches its activation temperature, will close and send s grounded signal back to the ecm telling it the conditions have been met. If the switch is closed on start up or does not close when the operating parameters are met, this code will be set.
That setup may or may not use a temp switch. If it's TBI, it may use the drop in vacuum (MAP sensor voltage) of the EGR opening to signal the ECM that it is working.
If you look at the wiring diagram, you can probably provide 12V in and a ground, to operate the EGR solenoid. Make sure it's got power (or ground) where it's supposed to, if it does, I'd test the solenoid itself.
Also I'd check the EGR for free movement, if it doesn't open when commanded, it would obviously trigger that code. Lastly I'd check the EGR passage, lots of these end up completely plugged from carbon.
If you look at the wiring diagram, you can probably provide 12V in and a ground, to operate the EGR solenoid. Make sure it's got power (or ground) where it's supposed to, if it does, I'd test the solenoid itself.
Also I'd check the EGR for free movement, if it doesn't open when commanded, it would obviously trigger that code. Lastly I'd check the EGR passage, lots of these end up completely plugged from carbon.
Muddytazz
1 ton status
This is a TBI motor.
What I'm getting is the slow speed stubbles/stutters and it throws the Code 32.
What I'm getting is the slow speed stubbles/stutters and it throws the Code 32.
i had a very similar problem on my '95 4.3. the mechanic says it was common for these engines.
anyway, on mine a piece of carbon would loosen up in the intake and clog the EGR and keep it open - thus it stumbles at idle and slow speeds. there were two ways i resolved it: first i would try romping on the motor - get the RPM's way up so that the valve would open up as much as possible and the piece of carbon would fly thru and burn up in the cat. if that didn't work, tho it almost always did (i only had to do the following a couple times) - just pop the EGR valve off and get the piece of carbon out. on my engine, it was located just under the air intake where the air hose/tube met the intake.
anyway, on mine a piece of carbon would loosen up in the intake and clog the EGR and keep it open - thus it stumbles at idle and slow speeds. there were two ways i resolved it: first i would try romping on the motor - get the RPM's way up so that the valve would open up as much as possible and the piece of carbon would fly thru and burn up in the cat. if that didn't work, tho it almost always did (i only had to do the following a couple times) - just pop the EGR valve off and get the piece of carbon out. on my engine, it was located just under the air intake where the air hose/tube met the intake.
If low speed, I'd lean towards the valve stuck open, especially if it isn't 100%. (as in you start the truck and it runs fine, after short drive, it's acting up)
If it's not 100%, then it's *probably* not the solenoid, as if it was stuck open, the problem would be all the time, and probably not run at all.
If it's not 100%, then it's *probably* not the solenoid, as if it was stuck open, the problem would be all the time, and probably not run at all.
Muddytazz
1 ton status
Yep, this runs fine at idle warm or cold. But after a short drive it starts acting up. Could it be just clogged like colby said since I can physically move the diaphram with my fingers from the backside.
Yes, if the passage is plugged, there would be no "vacuum leak" like there should be, so the MAP sensor has no way of knowing that it's actually opening.
