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Electric back window not working

TBHShane

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Abilene, TX
When I hit the switch on the dash I can hear a click in the tailgate, but the window won't go up (it's down now). Regulator or motor?
 
could be the switch in the tailgate, ill try and find the link on how to by-pass it
 
there is a switch on the inside of the tailgate on the driverside on the latch that tells weather the window is up or down you can by pass it with two male plugs and about 3 or 4 inch' of wire just tie it up so the window don't catch on it. cant find the write up on it.
 
OK, I'll try to find it.

Another question....

I don't have a key that fits the lock/switch on the outside of the tailgate. I'd like to pull the lock cylinder out and take it to a locksmith to have a key made for it. If the electric window isn't working, how do I get the glass pulled out of the way so I can access the back side of the tailgate lock/switch?
 
you gonna half to crawl into the back and remove the tail gate panel from there you will then remove a metal plate it has about 15 or so bolts in it. after removing the plate/panel you can access everything. even the motor there are 3 bolts and one plug on it. then you can lower the window to drop the tail gate.
 
you gonna half to crawl into the back and remove the tail gate panel from there you will then remove a metal plate it has about 15 or so bolts in it. after removing the plate/panel you can access everything. even the motor there are 3 bolts and one plug on it. then you can lower the window to drop the tail gate.

The window is down inside the tailgate now, so I can just open it up. I took the cover off. I couldn't get the window to budge, so I figured I'll have to remove everything to get it out. I was just hoping there was an easier way. :)

hope you have a drill to hook to the cable to put it up and down

I have a drill. I'll post a pic of the tailgate with the cover removed tomorrow to get you guys to point me in the right direction for that. Do I need to disconnect the cable from the motor, or can I stick a drill in the motor somewhere to make it turn?
 
ya just unplug the cable from the motor hook the drill to it and zip away if it dont work your cable is broke
 
pssst. these don't have cables inside the doors




tbhshane-

unbolt the glass from the regulator at the bottom of the glass. then you can remove the glass right out.
 
:) I thought I was blind. I didn't remember seeing a cable in there. Is there a trick to get the glass unbolted when the window is all the way down inside the tailgate? I don't know if I can get a wrench down in there or not. It's raining right now, so I'll have to try later.
 
OK, thanks for the help, Kain. I did see that cable in there, but I thought it was electrical. When it quits raining, I'll crank it with a drill. I appreciate the help.

Then I just have to go through all the parts to see why it's not working.
 
Today I used a drill to raise and lower the window a few times. I took the regulator out and cleaned and regreased it. The power window motor will now take the window up, but when I flip the dash switch the other way to lower the window nothing happens. No clicking or anything. Maybe the switch in the dash needs to have the contacts cleaned, or maybe the switch needs to be replaced. I didn't have time to take it out and clean it today. (Had to go shoot our bows before it got dark to practice for next weekend's hunt.)

Progress....
 
Disconnect the plug at the tailgate (its the one that is on the tailpan, connects the body harness to tailgate) and check voltage with switch in both positions. That makes sure you are checking it correctly.

It is possible for one of the wires to be cut/broken, which would result in power only in one direction.

There is also a plug in the engine bay that feeds those wires, that can have bad contact(s) as well, if you aren't getting voltage in one direction at the tailgate. Process of elimination.
 
Let me know if you have more questions....I just dealt with this on my truck. The switch in the tailgate had failed long ago, and instead of cutting/splicing the wires to permanently remove the switch, I had jammed a wire as a jumper in there, which finally fell apart. On top of that, the connector in the engine bay for some reason wasn't always making contact, so had randomly been acting up before it completely quit working due to the poor switch bypass.
 
While you have it apart I would change the cable. It's 20 bucks from LMC. They get corroded and the shielding breaks down. I just had to do mine. I will be lubing it once a year from now on. Very tough to my 300 pound 6'4 butt stuffed in there to work on it.
 

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