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electrical help ... how to convert to switches ?

sweetk30

sweetk30

Back to play nice .
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the 87 wiring in the plow truck just crapped out on me .

was cranking to start and it was a FIZZ & POP and now no dash power / no key hot power / but the power to trigger the edelbrock pcm on is still working .

anyone know if its a fuse ( checked and didnt find a blown one ) or a fusable link i should look for . thanks for any help . . . p.s. i hate wiring :doah:
 
Last edited:
sweetk30 said:
the 87 wiring in the plow truck just crapped out on me .

was cranking to start and it was a FIZZ & POP and now no dash power / no key hot power / but the power to trigger the edelbrock pcm on is still working .

anyone know if its a fuse ( checked and didnt find a blown one ) or a fusable link i should look for . thanks for any help . . . p.s. i hate wiring :doah:
Click to expand...
I am pretty sure it's a fusible link.
Start checking from the wires at the starter and feel for soft area or a crunchy section
 
I have the 87 wiring diagram. Give me a few minutes and I’ll sent it
 
Fuse links feed the fuse block. Do you have power at the fuse block? There are at least 2 fuse links sometimes 3. Normally there are 2 at the battery lug on the starter and sometimes 1 at the firewall bus bar.
1st inspect your battery cable connections, both ends. What is the the battery voltage now ?
Question will be what caused the issue.
 
just got the truck pulled / turned / pushed in the shop by my self and the help of the 01 3500-hd flatbed truck and a strap and tire .


be tuesday before i get to it .

i know what caused it ......... the truck has BAD JUJU . its played hell on and off since i started building it . i think she is ready for the cut up pile as i am done with it . i will build another and be rid of the curse .
 
any idea on amperage rating for the fuseable links on the starter ?

my plan is to just use a maxi fuse from a newer truck i am parting out .
 
sweetk30 said:
any idea on amperage rating for the fuseable links on the starter ?

my plan is to just use a maxi fuse from a newer truck i am parting out .
Click to expand...
I would use a maxi fuse if I can.
I believe 100amp is the right size
 
found some good gm fuseable links i had stashed away . moxed them up top on the battery off the starter wire and still nada .

i hear my edelbrock fuel pump relay turn on for its cycle and thats it . no dash lights / no acc power / no crank / . . .

i think i am DONE with this dam truck its taken me 1/2 the day and still no better and like i said before its been a PIMA from the first time i fired it up . . . hell the dam needle fell off the autometer vac guage the like 2 days before it lost all power .
 
Sounds like one of main cables has high resistance. Do a voltage drop test.
Take your volt meter, set 20v, parallel the positive cable( one end at battery plus, the other at the starter lug). When turn on a load, ie head lamps, see what the volt meter displays. If it more than 1 volt you have high resistance. Less than .5v is ideal.
Do the same for negative cable
 
so my buddy stopped over for 1hr and we tracked it down to power switch bolted to top of steering . changed it with another gm one i had and it clicked the starter a few times and then back to same old problems .

the fuse block has power i checked the fuses with power on/off and the funny part is i have power at the block with key on but stuff not turning on at all . like i have my gps and dash cam key hot for power off a relay triggered from acc port on the block and it has power but stuff wont turn on if that makes scene . . battery is 12.5 volts . only power to starter off battery now . rest is direct off top post adapter on battery to feed the truck .

i am not going to play with it anymore tonight . . . we will see what the next day brings .
 
You need to check all the grounds too for bad connections or corrosion. They’re just as important as the positive connection in order to make a complete circuit.
 
It sounds like a resistance issue. Though having the fuse links supplying power to fuse block and ignition switch, direct from the battery the dome lamps radio and other accessories should power on and work.

Which leads me back to the main cables .
 
so you say main cables ..... unless i tear out the whole engine bay harness to get these 2 wires then i dont know . . the big mains off the battery now only go batt to frame to engine block to body ground .... or batt to starter .
 
I mean the battery cables positive and negative. having the power drop out when loaded, is classic high resistance. Or loose/bad connections.
 
I have duel terminal battery .

Side post only feeding ground and had off looks clean . Pos feed starter motor only .

Top posts have adaptor to stud and all the rest is on them 2 . Had them all off and clean surfaces .
 
Have they ever had any corrosion the battery cables? if so they maybe damaged inside.
 
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