CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Electrical Help

BozoWise

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 28, 2002
Posts
1,223
Reaction score
0
Location
Lubbock, TX
I hate to double post but after 5 days in the 79 forum I got no hits and I know this is an easy question for you motor guys:D

I started gutting the wiring in the bucket today as I cut into the dash for the cage. Does anyone know what wiring is "required" for a 79 K5 to run. I have about removed anything factory over the buildup period.

I am going to replace all the wiring but ONLY need the minimum. I am going to run a aluminum dash with a minimum of gauges, none of them factory, so I think it would be easier to rewire everything instead of splicing factory. Just planning on a tach,water temp, oil pressure and trans temp guage. I already have dual batteries in the rear to a shutoff switch and then a distribution block from there to run electic fans and accessories so really the only thing I currently have on the factory system is the ignition switch and starter. The starter will be wired to a switched power push button on the dash and I am installing an aftermarket fuse panel/relay board in the dash. I have a no factory lights.

So long story short what wiring is need to get a 400sbc carbed and a th350 to come alive?
 
switched hot for ignition
push button for starter
switch to fan relay
 
468k5 said:
switched hot for ignition
push button for starter
switch to fan relay

Got the fans wired, got the interior controls for the winch, have the push button started.

BUT what all does the engine need for ignition? Is there just one wire that goes to the coil? I already have the alternator tied into the main battery disconnect on the firewall and Seabass is cutting the dash panel switches for me this week.

cage4.JPG
 
Any motor guys out there that can lend a hand with what switched power ignition wires there are on the 400sbc?
 
Great that is all I needed to confirm is that there is only one switched power needed to get-ir-running. I already got the alternator switched over into my main battery disconnect and I'm going to run a high current relay off the dash panel to run multiple switched power outputs.

Oh now I just thought about something. I think I will have to run a light to excite the alternator since I removed all the dash hoop-la. I'll have to check that with a voltmeter in the AM.

Could I just replace the build with a 10ohm resistor and diode since I don't want an idiot light?

I also found some great info at http://brochures.slosh.com/
 
Last edited:
yep...

You could use a resistor,or simply put a 194 bulb and socket in the wire to the altenator that "excites" the field,the white or brown wire..

You might need the diode to ensure it will shut off when you kill power to the HEI..sometimes power "backfeeds" from the altenator exciter wire and it keeps right on running,without a diode inline..the diode must be installed in the right "direction"..should have an arrow on it,to tell you which way the current is allowed to flow,since its a "one way valve" for electricity..:crazy:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom