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Electrical help.

Cadden

1/2 ton status
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Jan 28, 2020
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Location
Oregon
Heya. Got the jimmy running and driving.
Its got a mess of wiring still. I've fixed the tail/stop lights. Hazards work, blinkers not yet and I did find 2 wires connected together near the front fender which I think from what I understand from the wiring diagrams I've got (color coded ones I found on another site) are for the blinkers.

Couple things I need some help with.
Temp gauge, doesn't read anything. If I ground the wire, the gauge pegs to hot, so I bought a new sender that goes in the head. No change. It stays at cold mark even when it's full warmed up.

My fuel gauge now works, after replacing the long wire that goes to the back of the truck. (Nice to know 20 bucks of non ethanol fuel only gives me a little under 1/4 tank lol) that stuffs spendy. But i figured since its got all new fuel lines and tank thats all i want to run in it and since the carb was all gummed up and green inside... yea. Anyways.

The front clip wiring harness was missing some sort of connector, and had a blue, black, red, and white wire with butt connectors on the ends ready to be hooked up, or so it seemed. I connected them to the corresponding wires. The front running lights work now, however now when I turn the key to on all my tail lights and running lights turn on regardless if the headlight switch us pulled out.

And also near the fuse panel, there's this little connector that has 2 terminals on the end in a T shape, but 3 wires going into it. From what I can tell 2 of 3 of the wires go to the brake switch connector, is it supposed to be plugged in somewhere?

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I should add that I also wired in a new ignition switch and ignition switch connector. The wires were in bad shape and some of the colors are hard to tell what they are
 
the t shaped looks like a flasher connection, green one is for the headlights at least on mine have a similar one going to headlights
hope that helps
 
The sender and temp guage resistance probably don't match.
I found a SW sender that was close to the original 1/2npt sender in 3/8 npt.
Need to swap it still.
Current sender just barely moves off cold at op temp.
 
the t shaped looks like a flasher connection, green one is for the headlights at least on mine have a similar one going to headlights
hope that helps

It kind of does, but those are more L shaped.
Also, headlights work, including brights without that plugged in to anything
 
The sender and temp guage resistance probably don't match.
I found a SW sender that was close to the original 1/2npt sender in 3/8 npt.
Need to swap it still.
Current sender just barely moves off cold at op temp.

There were only two options I could find, with light or with guage. I got the one that says with gauge.
I did see another post about testing the ohms
I'll double check that
Mine doesnt move at all, not even a little
 
The sender and temp guage resistance probably don't match.
I found a SW sender that was close to the original 1/2npt sender in 3/8 npt.
Need to swap it still.
Current sender just barely moves off cold at op temp.

You sure thats not your t-stat?
 
Can someone who has a 70 to 72 snap blazer/jimmy a picture of this area so i can see how its supposed to go together?
Also, I have everything now except blinkers, still trying to figure out the temp gauge.

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the t shaped looks like a flasher connection, green one is for the headlights at least on mine have a similar one going to headlights
hope that helps

Hey, you were right about the green wires. The plugged into the headlight harness and made the running light start working, I checked out the other side and saw it had the two green wire connecting at one plug and went into the right side of the headlight connector. Thanks
 
Can someone who has a 70 to 72 snap blazer/jimmy a picture of this area so i can see how its supposed to go together?
Also, I have everything now except blinkers, still trying to figure out the temp gauge.

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View attachment 357886

are those the steering column wires? Mines got a new harness so not sure a pic of mine would help.
 
Sweet. Blinkers work now after replacing the turn signal switch. I think the culprit was actually that half moon shape connector as when I took it apart it was pretty rough looking around the wires.

The dash/running lights turning on when I turn the key to on i think is because I wired the gray wire on my new switch wrong. So I'm re checking my diagram for that.

Also, got my new shift knob

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Fixed everything. Took some time to go thru the diagrams.
The reason the tail lights and dash lights came on when I turned the key on is because of a gray wire that was spliced into one of the brown wires (previous owners)
From what I could tell that was for the light in the heater.
I cut it, and taped it problem solved
 
And the gray thick wire on this replacment ignition switch connector is supposed to be pink not gray. But that wasn't the wire for the light issue.
Thanks autozone.
 

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