The light behind my fuel gauge seems to be bright and shiny, then just goes away whenever it feels like it.Also when I first got the truck the voltage meter worked fine, now it shows nothing. The two generator lights that come on when you start the truck, one of them stays on until I actually start driving. Any common problems you guys see here? Also where is the best place to run the two power cables for a radio? Any help is much appreciated, brand new to the diesel scene, and I have always been terrible at wiring...
CK5
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Electrical issues with my CUCV
- Thread starter us74k5
- Start date
Also, my left blinker works fine. Right blinker didnt work when I got it, think I hit a bump or something and it started working fine. Now the right blinker light just stays lit and there is no clicking, anyone care to chime in on this one?
Pull the light socket out and clean the connections, then slightly bend the tabs back up so they make a good contact with the housing.
smalltruckbigcid
1/2 ton status
Right blinker is bad ground on the front under the battery tray...
Gen lights - when one comes on and stays on give the throttle a blip after it starts. Sometimes the truck starts so quick and the idle is so low the alt behind the light never starts charging and you have to goose it once to get it to come on. Big Ugly does this occasionally.
If the light stays on or comes on at other times then you have a problem.
Radio - Frankly I'd run them both to the constant 12v power source on the firewall. Instead of having a switched 12v source have that constant and with a switch on the dash. A fuse as well obviously. I did this because we have no ALT position on the ignition so you can't sit in the truck and listen to the radio with the engine off without having it in the start position and the glow plugs cycling.
You just have to remember to turn the radio off using the switch when you get out. However I left mine on for most of a week once and the truck started fine...brand new batteries though.
If the light stays on or comes on at other times then you have a problem.
Radio - Frankly I'd run them both to the constant 12v power source on the firewall. Instead of having a switched 12v source have that constant and with a switch on the dash. A fuse as well obviously. I did this because we have no ALT position on the ignition so you can't sit in the truck and listen to the radio with the engine off without having it in the start position and the glow plugs cycling.
You just have to remember to turn the radio off using the switch when you get out. However I left mine on for most of a week once and the truck started fine...brand new batteries though.
sixb
1/2 ton status
Here's what I'll do when the time comes.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/39007-battery-move.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/39007-battery-move.html
What he said.
I, being slightly dumb, went down to Advanced Auto and bought the same size batteries as the military ones. Group 31's I think? Anyway they're tractor and equipment batteries and have a deep reserve capacity. That said...we really don't need it. Get some good regular sized 1000cca or so batteries and do like is done in that link. As soon as I need to replace mine (I'm guessing 2025 or so) I'll be doing the same. Lord knows I spent $150 on the two of them...
I, being slightly dumb, went down to Advanced Auto and bought the same size batteries as the military ones. Group 31's I think? Anyway they're tractor and equipment batteries and have a deep reserve capacity. That said...we really don't need it. Get some good regular sized 1000cca or so batteries and do like is done in that link. As soon as I need to replace mine (I'm guessing 2025 or so) I'll be doing the same. Lord knows I spent $150 on the two of them...
