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All you did was complete the ground circuit!..if the positive cable is connected,and the negative dissconnected,bridging the gap between the negative and ground with the test light will complete the ground curcuit,and light the bulb..(this could indicate a "draw" on the battery though)--.
If everything is "off" in the truck,and all the doors are shut,no "juice" should be flowing from the battery to anything..(OK,maybe the clock,IF you have one,might still be "on").
....so ,by putting the test light between the positive battery TERMINAL,and the other end of it to the positive CABLE,the light should stay OFF if everything is "normal"..if it lights up something is draining the battery-a bulb is lit somewhere,a wire is pinched and shorted,etc---pulling out fuses or disconnecting suspect wires you think might be shorting out will put the light out when the offending device or wire is located..
If pulling fuses or dissconecting suspect wires doesn't put the light out,it could be the alternator causing the light to come on..
Blown diodes in the altenator can cause the test light to come on--the big red wire on the back of the alternator will have to be removed from the stud to see if the light goes out,because that wire is "hot" all the time,even with the key off..(so don't let it touch ground while it's off,or ZAPPP!!)..
I see lots of trucks with stoplight switches that dont release and turn the brake lights off,or with butchered trailer wiring added to the original harness that has shorts, and kills the battery eventually..usually the battery or altenator get the blame,but it's not their fault most of the time..usually its faulty wiring, or something not shutting off,like a trunk or glove box light,or an underhood light,etc..
