What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Electronic Spark Module (Need Help)

Justin Fleming

Justin Fleming

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Posts
924
Reaction score
48
Location
Oxford MI
Hello

I have an 86 k5 blazer and I beleive the electronic spark module is bad. I have put in a complete new tune-up, entire new distributer and the only thing left is this module. Does anyone have any experiecne with these modules and how to trouble shoot the module or wiring. Such as what wire should have power to it and what not. The last time the truck would not start I tapped on the module and then the truck started right up.

thanks
 
are you taking about the one on the fire wall? if so it has nothing to do with the truck starting all it is for is the knock sensor.
 
Yup sounds like your module, soon the truck won't turn over at all. I had to replace mine a while back, I also have an 86. Is it a 4 pin or a 7 pin module. Either way they shouldn't be that much, the 4 pin is cheaper though but I had a 7 pin, anyways it should work fine when you replace it
 
I think he is talking about this module.

According to my information, here is the pinout.

Brown wire - AIR select valve control
Pink/Black wire - Power input
Black/Pink wire - Air Diverter Valve Control
Light Blue Wire - Carb fuel control - mixture solenoid
Gray wire - EGR solenoid

esc203.jpg
 
btolenti said:
I think he is talking about this module.

According to my information, here is the pinout.

Brown wire - AIR select valve control
Pink/Black wire - Power input
Black/Pink wire - Air Diverter Valve Control
Light Blue Wire - Carb fuel control - mixture solenoid
Gray wire - EGR solenoid
Click to expand...


I think he's talking about the electronic ignition control module located inside the distributor. It's an easy fix, but do your self a favor and get a real OEM AC Delco module. Take it from someone who's had numerous aftermarket one's go out on him..
 
I've a '86 V6 with the ESC. It sounds like the module (in the distrubtor). The price for these modules is ridiculous though. The stanadard HEI 4pin used from 73-85 is $20 at most places. The 5pin one for my ESC V6 was $120. The california 7-pin one was even more. I just bought an accell drop in replacment distributor without the ESC for $180 and called it done. (I was rebuilding the whole engine anyway..)
 
Well like I mentioned above the distrib. is brand new...which includes a new module in the distrib.

The only thing that I thought was left was the electronic ignition control module that is located on the fire wall behind the glove box. I have read that some say that the module has nothing to do with the truck starting? This seems odd as I can unplug it while the truck is running and it shuts right down? I could not access the bitmap attached to the one reply. Can anyone lend any more advice?

thanks
 
Ah, it sounds like you have a fully computer controlled carb and everything....just like my K5 used to have. Their is an ECM behind the glove box, similar in shape/size to the TBI computers.... I still have my old one, if you need it...

IMG_0586.jpg
 
btolenti said:
Ah, it sounds like you have a fully computer controlled carb and everything....just like my K5 used to have. Their is an ECM behind the glove box, similar in shape/size to the TBI computers.... I still have my old one, if you need it...
Click to expand...

can you email me that picture at [email protected] so I can see if we are talking about the same thing?

thanks
 
The setup needs to be clarified. It could be ESC or it could be CCC. But the emissions tag on the truck would tell, CCC was CA only for trucks. (as your experience attests to. :))
 
Yeah, there's definitly differences, My '86 c10 V6 is ESC only, carb was not computer controlled, just a regular q-jet.

If it's ESC only you should have a 4-pin weatherpak conenctor coming out the back of the distributor, disconnectit and you can bypass the ESC computer by jumping pins A & C on the distributor side. Truck should run. If not, you have a distribuor problem. Ignition coil, pickup coil or module. There's some tests for all of them , if you bought a rebuilt distributor, alot of times they don't replace the module, if it tests good, they put it back. Because they are so expensive for the ESC trucks.
 
Ok guys Brandon was nice enough to send me the two photos that he had listed. The module that I am talking about is not either one of those pictures. The module looks just like the ECM but in a little smaller scale and only one plug in connection. Auto Zone called it a Electronic Spark Control Module. I have not been able to jump the terminals at the dist. and see if the truck runs as I am dealing with some unexpected family stuff.

A big question that I have is: What kind of siginals does the ignition switch send to the truck? Is it only a power signal or does it also send other signals that would be controlling spark? Should I try replacing the ignition switch before the 120 dollar ignition controller?

thanks
 
As far as I've been able to discern, different years did different things. Early on, the ESC was tied into the dist. via the knock sensor...only when knock was detected was timing retarded. Later on, the distributor was controlled solely by that module.

The way to tell is if there is vacuum advance. If no vac advance cannister, its all controlled via the module. If vac advance, it's knock retard only. I suspect based on others experiences that even the early ones can fail and cause problems like you describe.
 
73k5blazer said:
Yeah, there's definitly differences, My '86 c10 V6 is ESC only, carb was not computer controlled, just a regular q-jet.

If it's ESC only you should have a 4-pin weatherpak conenctor coming out the back of the distributor, disconnectit and you can bypass the ESC computer by jumping pins A & C on the distributor side. Truck should run. If not, you have a distribuor problem. Ignition coil, pickup coil or module. There's some tests for all of them , if you bought a rebuilt distributor, alot of times they don't replace the module, if it tests good, they put it back. Because they are so expensive for the ESC trucks.
Click to expand...


Ok guys I am really at lost now. I have replaced the electronic spark controller and the truck still will not run. I have also tried jumping the A @ C pin as mentioned above, still no luck. Where should I be looking next? This thing is killing me right now.....

thanks
 
What exactly is not happening, other than it not starting, to make you think it was the ESC system in the first place?
 
dyeager535 said:
What exactly is not happening, other than it not starting, to make you think it was the ESC system in the first place?
Click to expand...

The truck has no spark.....call me I would apprecate it

2487896958

thanks
 
I would if I were near a phone. Although I think the quite-a-ways--international call would tend to get pricey. :)

No spark. You getting 12V into the distributor when key is in run AND when it's cranking?
 
dyeager535 said:
I would if I were near a phone. Although I think the quite-a-ways--international call would tend to get pricey. :)

No spark. You getting 12V into the distributor when key is in run AND when it's cranking?
Click to expand...

yes I get the 12v when cranking and key in on position.

How can I manually fire the coil to see that it is working correctly?
 
Ok, back to basics. Three things required for engine to run, Air, Fuel, Spark.
Air, usally isn't a problem. That leaves fuel and spark. You sure there's gas to the carb? (After trying many time to crank, you should be able to smell it quite easily anywhere near the carb).
Check for spark,basic poor mans test is to remove a spark plug, put it in it's boot, ground it to the frame and have a helper crank the motor. This is HEI, it should make you almost drop the thing,the HEI spark should be that strong. If no spark,or a weak spark (weak defined in this case as you can hold the boot in your hand with the plug end grounded with the engine cranking), then you have a distributor problem.
There are tests for the ignition coil and the pickup coil.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/11/43/ad/0900823d801143ad.jsp
You need an ohm meter to perform the tests, very basic.
Module can be tested at most autoparts stores.
I'm pretty close to you, if you can't get something out of the tests, I may be able to help you out, but not until Monday sometime, mabey Sunday night.
If I were to guess, at this point, I'd guess ignition coil. They are cheap at the store, like $20 for a normal one, $50 for a good one. Might be worth the $20 just for a trial and error. Check for spark first though....
Does it even hint at wanting to start? Does is cough or anything?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom