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emission failed again

dheavychevy38

dheavychevy38

1/2 ton status
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Man this is fun ok this time it was major i blew a 1500 hc limit is 200. I put cap rotor coil and bumped the timeing thing runs good. Sittin in the test lane motor builds up with fuel and dies :frown1: fire it up take the test major failure. So i came home yanked the plugs and the #8 cylinder was full of fuel it also made a mist of smoke come out of the tbi.Did a compression test lowest cylinder was 148 and the higest is 160. what the f&*k any ideas i am really gittin made goin to get wires and plugs tonight.





THANKS TO ALL THAT HELPED ME :bow: :thumb: she passed to day i retarded the timeing and hooked up my little tank idea and it passed by 2 points now to finish tuneing it i just ordered a adj pressure regulator just in case mine is bad. This is why i joined for all the good help thanks guys keep up the good work.
 
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I just found this on another site.
CO too high = Car runs rich, burns too much gas.
Bad carburetor adjustment, float too high, carburetor flooding, sticking secondary throttle, leaking fuel injector, leaking fuel pressure regulator, feedback system malfunction (oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor), emissions vapor system malfunction (purge valve, canister clogged) Be aware that NOX will RISE after you fix a CO problem. This must be checked after a successful CO repair.

HC too high = unburned fuel in exhaust; car runs very rich or very lean. This is the trickiest condition because there are different causes. If the car is running rich (high CO), the HC can be high also. If the CO is very low and HC is high then the vehicle has a lean misfire.

If The CO is high, fix that problem first. If CO is low and HC is high look for engine skipping, misfire due to vacuum leaks, ignition timing set too advanced, ignition misfire problem (plugs, wires, cap), low fuel pressure, carburetor adjusted too lean. If you can’t find a reason for the high HC then perform balance test then compression test to check for engine mechanical problem.

NOX too high = NOX forms in normal combustion. NOX too high indicates high combustion chamber temperatures or malfunctioning post-combustion emission controls.

CO and HC must be normal before attempting to repair NOX failure. Anything that can create high combustion chamber temperatures will make NOX reading high. Engine overheating, air cleaner hot air door stuck closed, egr vale not functioning, clogged egr valve passage, lean fuel mixture, ignition timing set too high. The two main systems that reduce NOX on a car are the egr system and catalytic converter. If your car is pinging, the NOX will be too high. Pinging is a symptom of high combustion chamber temperature. If all the test readings are just a little too high (slightly high CO, HC, and NOX) it is likely the catalytic converter is damaged or empty. If your converter is supposed to have air injection and it is disabled, the converter will not function properly.
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If you retard the timing alot and I mean alot like to 0 and it will accually burn alot cleaner you will have no poweer but it will burn way clean. Did it on my 72 wagon, retarded it so much that they had to push me off the dyno, not enough power to pull off, but it passed and I just pulled around the corner and reset the timing. Good Luck
 
You say full of fuel. If it's full of fuel, then your exhaust isn't working...it will exhaust the fuel whether or not it combusts. Had this happen on my TPI motor, the injectors don't stop firing, the cylinder doesn't stop ingesting fuel/air, but if it can't exhaust, it will fill up.

If it's TBI, and it's loading up and dying, it sounds to me like bad injector(s).

All you have to do to test cylinder problems (whether compression, spark, etc) is pull the wire to the plug while it's running. If #8 is not burning right, pulling that plug wire shouldn't affect idle quality at all.

Never hurts to replace plugs and wires if whats on there is old though, bad wires will make a world of difference.
 
The cylinder wasn't fuel to the top but the plug had enough fuel on it when i took it out that it was dripping off. Most of the cylinders had some oil around the threads of the plug but you could tell that they were burning clean just that one cylinder i found the fuel problem. The funky thing is i tuned it up except the plugs and wires the thing ran great i drove it for like 1 1/2 before i took it and in the lane idleing whating for teh guy in front of me the truck just up and dies fired right back up but. i don't know i am so tired of this crap just venting a little i guess just makes me mad cause it seemed like everything was working so good.
 
i ohmed out he injectors and they are within specs 1.2 ohms is what the meter read. Going to get plugs and put wires on in a little while i will let you know. On the distributer when you advance it you turn it clockwise and to retard is to counterclockwise right or wrong?
 
Do you guys think running hotter plugs would help any and if so which ones thanks i just need to get it to pass and it will be good for 2 years.
 
I just had the ANNUAL (agh) emissions test on the Jimmy done this morning, HC = 131 loaded, 178 idle, CO = .21 loaded, 1.08 idle. Thats with a Q Jet carb and no catalytic convertors or air pump. You definately have a problem. Are you sure the spark plug wire to the flooded cylinder is good? When you look down the throttle body at idle do you see a nice mist or drops of gas falling into the intake? Does your computer have any trouble codes? Does the oil on the dipstick smell like gas?


No, a hotter plug wont fix your problem. You've got to figure out why that cylinder is getting flooded with gas, enough so to foul the plug.
 
I changed the wires and am waiting for the plugs to get here to day.The injectors spray a nice mist just like my moms 94 burbin that passes no sweat. No trouble codes. Hopeing the wires and plugs help i just changed them in the middle of last summer.

The one thing that does through me is when i hook up my scanner the temp reads 188 but the gauge reads 200-210 is this normal or maybe thats the problem.
 
nope just changed it but the air filter does? Also when i pulled the plugs a cloud of smoke like unburned fuel came out of the tbi
 
Don't sweat the temp difference in the two readings.

Is the O2 sensor voltage bouncing around while it's in closed loop?
 
if this isn't a throttle body, i would look to see if the injector to that specific cylinder is getting stuck on.

Double check your plug and see if it is getting fouled.
 
Ok here is what i found i put all the new stuff on snd unpluged teh #8 cylinder when it was running it made a slight difference not amjor but was noticable. so i unpluged a different cylinder and it made bigger difference. So i am not sure if the distributer is messed up at all or not. I also noticed the driver side injector was putting out more feul than the pass side.
 
dheavychevy38 said:
Ok here is what i found i put all the new stuff on snd unpluged teh #8 cylinder when it was running it made a slight difference not amjor but was noticable. so i unpluged a different cylinder and it made bigger difference. So i am not sure if the distributer is messed up at all or not. I also noticed the driver side injector was putting out more feul than the pass side.
Click to expand...

Check compression on #8 again, if you have new cap, rotor, wires and spark plugs and you arent firing much on that cylinder you may have low compression via a burned valve or worn rings.
 
so i took it out for a drive and now it misses alot after driveing then sitting at a stop light not to the point it will die but is very noticable. I think the fix is a boom stick and a 12 gauge:p: well i am at that point anyway. Do you think the distributer is no good or has a problem.
 
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