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Emission testing

scottsdale86

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 19, 2010
Posts
1,132
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Location
San Bernardino ca
I have to get my 86' K10 smogged here in the lovely state of CA. Yea me. Now I have every emission component on the truck that it left the factory with. The last time I had it smogged it passed the emission test but failed the visual test due to the timing being at 15 degrees when the decal on the radiator support says 4 degrees. This truck has been non op since then. Now I recently tuned it up and it runs great. I disconnected the vac advance, plugged it and checked the timing. It was pretty close to 4 degrees. Now it has me thinking the smog tech didn't check the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected. Isn't that how a smog test is supposed to check the timing when doing an emission test? It says to on the radiator support to set and check the timing the way I did it. So what say ye? Did he do it wrong and inadvertently fail me?
 
It was probably too long ago to do anything about it. Not sure he is supposed to or not but that is one of the tips to pass. Pull hose and put BB in it. Plug back in. Get smoged.
 
Hmm interesting. Are they supposed to pull it and plug it to test it though?

Yes, the timing cannot be off more than 4* or you fail the test. Proper method is just like you said, remove vacuum hose and plug it then check the timing.
 
That is what I thought. The guy didn't seem like he knew what he was doing. HE even said my headers were illegal even after I showed him the CARB E.O. decal and the paperwork from edelbrock not to mention the plate stamped onto the pipe. I am going to run a tank of fuel through it and then take it in to another place. Anyone know of someone who is friendly to older vehicles in the socal area?
 
Did you already pay the testing fee and do the full test (results sent to DMV, printout etc.?). Technically, you should have it "repaired" and then go back to the same testing facility so you don't pay for the re-test (unfortunately the vehicle is now in the DMV database as a "fail" unless you only did the prelim test). I've failed on timing before even when I tested clean. I tried to argue that the harmonic balancer had partially spun being 25+ years old. Yeah, most of the test guys really don't understand the older stuff so I would look for a different smog guy. I wouldn't trust anyone younger than the vehicle itself. I do know a shop in the LA area - he's pretty good with the older stuff and he's gotten me to pass (even if it takes 3 days).
 
Did you already pay the testing fee and do the full test (results sent to DMV, printout etc.?). Technically, you should have it "repaired" and then go back to the same testing facility so you don't pay for the re-test (unfortunately the vehicle is now in the DMV database as a "fail" unless you only did the prelim test). I've failed on timing before even when I tested clean. I tried to argue that the harmonic balancer had partially spun being 25+ years old. Yeah, most of the test guys really don't understand the older stuff so I would look for a different smog guy. I wouldn't trust anyone younger than the vehicle itself. I do know a shop in the LA area - he's pretty good with the older stuff and he's gotten me to pass (even if it takes 3 days).

This was in Feb of 2012. I have had the truck in storage ever since. It pissed me off to no end that I parked it. It didn't help my wife was 6 month preggers at the time and I was the only income we had working two jobs. So i didn't have the time or inclination to mess with it. Plus I had a 03 superduty for my truck purposes. Now that truck is gone and I need/want to get this truck smogged and road ready again. I started it and drove it a couple times a month around the neighborhood and it runs great but I fear if i can't get it smogged this time I am going to just part it out or scrap it. Which is a shame because you don't see many short bed k10's with everything mechanically on them working. Here are some pics
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g250/fr8owner/Truck/photo0179.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g250/fr8owner/Truck/photo0022.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g250/fr8owner/Truck/photo0024.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g250/fr8owner/Truck/photo0179.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g250/fr8owner/Truck/scan0007.jpg
 
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Thank you neighbor (San Bernardino here). It was my daily driver for a year and a half. It just needs paint/trim and a new windshield. It is just this smog thing is killing it for me though. he thing is when I bought it from the kid who had it before me he had a performer RPM manifold, 750 edelbrock carb, and none of the emissions stuff on it yet he still managed to get it smogged somehow. My issue is I don't know where he is or where he took it. I rather just get it running so it is on the up and up emissions wise but my patience is wearing thin.
 
Very nice & clean truck. it'd be worth it to keep it reg'd. Your truck should be a computer controlled carb & should be the same set up as mine - I have every wire/switch/sensor hooked up if you need additional referencing (unless your's fed specs). I honestly think that the state has an incentive for the smog stations to fail as many of the older vehicles as they can so they can be scrapped/destroyed. Try finding a different smog place and ask for a pre-inspection first that way youll know if it requires work before the real test. In my area, I seem to have better luck with the smog stations that are also repair stations as opposed to the "smog only" places. It may cost more in the long run but considering the condition of your truck, it's worth it (don't let the state win by forcing you to get rid of your truck).

If the smog guys are still hassling you about the headers, I have a pair of factory exhaust manifolds ('86 Cali) you can borrow. Im just not sure of the y-pipe's condition. A good shop shouldn't hassle you about the headers as long as the emissions pass. Good luck!
 
See that is the thing bubba it doesn't have a computer or the (mv4e I believe) carb. It is just an electric choked quadrajet. According to the decal under the hood and the factory service manual I have it is hooked up correctly as well. I thought it also had a computer controlled carb. But it does say it is a low altitude vehicle. I will take a pic of the radiator support decal and post it.
It passes the actual smog test just fails the visual on the timing which I don't think the guy checked right. My only other option to keep it on the road if it doesn't pass after this is to do a later engine conversion. Maybe a TBI motor or something. I just don't know enough about CA smog laws to make an educated guess yet. All I do know is that I have so much time and work into this truck with the new interior, lockers front and rear, rebuilt np208, crate engine with all new cooling system, grill, rear window, suspension lift, brakes, exhaust etc I will be damned if I am not going to get this thing on the road again in some shape or form. If I could find a pre 75 swb truck I would just 'transfer' all of the good stuff off this truck to that chassis and never deal with these smog nazi's again.
 
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I have two blazers at my house, one is mine (1988 tbi) and a friends (1982 carb). They both pass smog. If you want to come by some time and check them out and compare to yours you are more than welcome to.
 
I may take you up on that. I am pretty sure it is all hooked up correctly according to the engine decal but when I got it it had nothing emissions related on it at all. It looked like a hot rod engine. Aluminum valve covers, chrome air cleaner, perfromer rpm manifold and ede carb, the only emissions type thing he had on there was the edelbrock T.E.S headers. Of course they weren't hooked up correctly but i don't think he actually had the correct manifolds anymore. I have since have found a donor engine identical to what came out of the truck and replaced everything that came off the original engine with the correct components and hooked all of it up. The vaccum stuff was a mess but I got it done and running. Now after all of that the smog nazi's are bitching that the timing is off a few degrees. I think what another member said is true that CA just wants all older vehicles off the road and they just look for any reason to fail you regardless if the vehicle runs clean or not. The shop I took it to in 2012 was a very reputable shop but they nailed me for everything, one gas cap was bad, the timing issue, my thermostatic air cleaner heat riser had a pin hole in it and they said the headers weren't legal. Well $15 for a new gas cap and heat riser tube, some documentation from edelbrock and checking the timing the correct way (vac advance disconnected and plugged) I think I am ready to retry. I just need to find a place that knows what the heck they are doing and not just use to OBD II stuff.
 
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If you adjust the timing within spec does it run ok?

If I adjust it like stated above with the vac advance disconnected and plugged and adjusted to 4 degrees it runs okay. Obviously not as peppy as it does with a few more degrees of timing but yeah it runs fine.
 
Do you have a temporary cert. to drive it? There is a place in Riverside that is a smog place and repair. They did my friends blazer, it passed and runs real strong. It's Brockton Auto Cliniic they are located behind Riverside community hospital. I took my blazer to the for some help with tuning and they were great!
 
scottsdale -

sounds like you have a fed spec vehicle (aka "49 state"). I wish I was closer b/c I know two shops in LA/Pasadena that would pass your truck - legally too!

I dunno why I forgot about this but there are specific areas within certain counties that do not require a bi-annual (reg renewal) smog check (http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2539). You can try to register the vehicle in one of those areas. For instance I looked up Zip codes 92225 (Riverside) and 92364 (SB) through this web site (BAR smog reqs throughout the state) and it says for this you only need it when there's an ownership change:

http://smogcheck.ca.gov/pubwebquery/Ziparea/ZipLookup.aspx

Your truck is so clean that in a "worse case" scenario, I would swap all your parts to an original diesel or pre '75 model or do a newer engine swap before even thinking about scrapping or parting it out.
 
Do you have a temporary cert. to drive it? There is a place in Riverside that is a smog place and repair. They did my friends blazer, it passed and runs real strong. It's Brockton Auto Cliniic they are located behind Riverside community hospital. I took my blazer to the for some help with tuning and they were great!

No i dont Bowen but i could get one if need be. I know exactly the place you are talking about. It is right next to the RCC baseball fields. I will look into them.

Bubba Blazer, how does one go about registering the vehicle in another zip code if i live in 92407?
 
I only know one person do this and it was because they had a relative in the zip code so they used their mailing address (or I think it was a "gift" transfer to his aunt?) Sorry - it's been a while. There is a form for filling out the change of address online or you can do it with AAA if you're a member. I'm trying to look up more info but it appears that you'll still need to get the vehicle smogged (updated reg) first before changing address - hopefully someone who's done this will chime in since you're neither changing ownership or initially registering it in Cali. However, once transferred into a "smog-free" zip, you won't have to worry about the 2 year renewal.

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/02_SmogCheck/Program_Areas.html
Change of Ownership Areas: Vehicles within specified model years are required to be certified only upon change of ownership or initial registration in California. Vehicles registered in this area must receive a TSI (Two Speed Idle) Smog Check.
 
Yeah I just probably need to get it smogged and go from there. I would love to never smog it again just so I never have to deal with the stress or headache of emissions again. I don't even want to modify it, i just want to drive the damn thing.
 

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