engine build up questions

[85 Jimmy]

ok guys i'm takeing out a loan to build my engine and need to know what i need. i'm taking out a $5000 loan for the engine and a new tranny
i know what the main things i need are but i need to know:
-what cam should i use
-what length push rods
-should i use 1.6:1 or 1.5:1 roller rockers
- what cam do i need for the TPI

give me a whole list of things to get
and the engine is a 350 that is getting bored .30 over with a speed density TPI system on it

any other things ya'll need to know to answer this question, just ask

 

[littlejimmythatcould]

$5K? Man, that's awesome. I did a pretty mild build on my motor for about $3, but I lucked out on finding a used set of world products heads that saved me $700. I just used the 1.5 ratio rocker arms and a comp cams extreme offroad camshaft with .462 intake and.480 ehuast @.050. I don't remember the duration off hand but the powerband is 1300 to 5500 although I have yet to get it past 4300 rpm even when romping on it. I'm running a carb though. I think you'll have to find a cam that will work with your computer, I'll admit I don't know a whole lot about anything other than carbuerated motors though. But what tranny will you be running? I picked up a TH350 from my local advance autoparts for $650 plus core. It's their "bullet proof" tranny with a shift kit already installed with a 24 month 24,000 mile warranty and I've been pretty happy with that. But don't forget to factor in all the little stuff, that's probably the best advice I can give you. I'd factor in at least $500 for "little things" (filters, hoses, pumps, bolts, gaskets, sealants, plexigauge, etc.).

 

[blazinzuk]

The name of the game here is torque. That said you need to gather a lot of info. Read some books. Search the internet talk to more than one machinist. Some people can put up with a cam that doesn't idle super well, some poeple have to have a rock steady idle at 700 rpm. Airflow is the name of the game if your motor can't get air in or out it aint gonna make the power. Are you ever gonna put nitrous on it, if so put more money into the bottom end and open up the rings a bit. If not put together a solid bottom end (just medium level stuff no need for carillo rods) and put the money into the valvetrain. Just remember this, your engine is a system from the moment the air enters the air cleaner to the moment the fumes spew out the exhuast. Don't throw 3 grand on heads and use a stock ignition. Most of the companys that sell stuff will talk to you as long as you have questions so don't be scared to question suggestions. The more questions you ask yourself and others the more satisfied you will be with your motor

 

[littlejimmythatcould]

Not to mention, have you thought about crate motors? Just something to keep in mind. But if you're like me and you like to get your hands dirty then go for it! Just pay attention to detail. The motor in my truck is the first one I've ever built and I'll tell you there are certain braggin rights I think a person deserves after building a motor, even though I could have saved a little by going with a crate motor. I agree, do some research into what motor component combinations work for different applications and a machinist will be your best friend while you build your motor.

 

[sled_dog]

pushrods are the last thing you should install in a custom engine. If it is usuing factory heads, and factory block(No decking or resurfacing) you can probaly get awayu with stock pushrods. Otherwise you will need to figure out at the end of the build what length push rods you need. If you just buy some and slap them in your valvetrain geometry could easily be off and now all that money you spent is wasted because you aren't getting your potential out of the motor, or maybe even damaging it. Crate motors are an excellent choice. Otherwise get with a local engine shop and start talking shop with them about options. If you are looking at building an engine and the only thing you are worried about is what length pushrods to use, you need to stop and think some more because there are a lot more factors to worry about.

Is the TPI setup stock? how old are the injectors? what do you use your rig for?

 

[dyeager535]

It doesn't look like you've got the TPI setup yet, the advice from someone that went about the same path you are going to take, (me, and I guess Ryan too went eh same path originally) look to Ryan B and his posts for motors that are worth swapping. I wished I had known more about the newer motors at the time, for the cost and the results, the newer motors are better. There is no question in my mind on that.

It makes a heck of a lot more sense to spend 3K on one of the newer motors than it does on the older ones. The torque curve is flat, they make tons of power, are efficient, and they last a long time. If you have $5k to throw at one, you will not be disappointed I'm sure.

 

[85 Jimmy]

well i have the block and heads from a post 87 vehicle, but right now that's all i have

i plan on running a full MSD ignition system, i would like to bump my compression ratio up to 9:1 and i'll be throw forged flat top pistons in it for that, and if needed i'll mill the head. i'm not using anything stock. i was thinking about 33 lb. injectors. and for the exhuast i was going to run 3". i won't be running any boost or juice so my plan was to build a solid top and bottom end.

the truck is my DD but i use it to tow and go out mudding and trail riding all the time, i'm not looking for great MPG

i've got a 66 mustang that i rebuilt the entire engine in so it's not new to me, but fuel injection and all the electronics are new. also doing anything more than throwing in a slightly bigger cam is new to me also

i've done the searches and found some good stuff, but need to know more about the little things. i guess i'll serach more

thanks and any more info ya'll would like to throw out is welcome

 

[danny7139]

Like dyeager535 said, Gen III motor swap is a really good swap. You get a motor that gets good gas, makes plenty of power, will last a long time and will take alot of beating. Good option for a DD/Trailrig right there. I would look into it if I was you.