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Engine cranks but will not run on a 90 Blazer **UPDATE**

opfor2

opfor2

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 28, 2002
Posts
375
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Location
Ventura County, CA
**UPDATE**

Well, after spending my weekend trying to troubleshoot this problem and following the service manual flow charts which ALL indicated a faulty ignition module (which was the first thing that I replaced) I ended up having the Blazer towed to the stealer ship. And guess what? Faulty ignition module!!! How could this be? I bought a “top of the line” Borge Warner ignition module from Kragen with a life time warranty and it was bad?? The dealer also replaced the pick up coil because the connector broke as they were trying to replace the module. I’m pissed!!!! Oh ya damages, $ 311.00 US. What bull Sh!t !!!!! But the truck runs a hell of a lot better. The old pick up coil was functional but really corroded so replacing it was probably a good thing.

Dan..

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Yesterday morning I went to start my 90 Blazer but no go. It cranks fine but no spark or fuel from the injectors. Fuel pump runs with good fuel pressure. I thought it might of have been the ignition module, bought a new Borg Warner module but still no start. I have an OEM Chevy service manual and I followed all of the “Crank but no start” trouble shooting flow charts and still nothing. Disconnected the 4 terminal plug off of the distributor, with ignition on, put 12 volts to ckt. 430 with test light and injector test light blinked each time the test light was removed from ckt 430. This indicates a faulty ignition module or connection. Module was replaced, so could the new one be bad?

I also switched the coils and still nothing. This is my DD and I really don’t want to have it towed to the rip-off dealership tomorrow. Any ideas would be really helpful. BTW, I did check all fuses, and connections. Also, put my code reader on it and there are no codes stored, and the ECM appeared to be functioning.


Dan..
 
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Yup, I think this is what it is. It's going to be a bitch because I have to remove the distribator from the eng. Never done this before.
 
tip for ya

Take your time and don't sweat it.Get a permanent marker and mark the rotor position on your distributor housing and the distributor base and intake manifold so you don't get lost putting it back in.
 
true

That's right,you don't have to but it will make it easier,if your distributor is one where you have to drill to get the coil out.Don't know if that's the case here or not-I don't like new trucks-you know,the ones with those cumpuders,crapudors,confusors...aw hell,you know what I mean! :D
 
yes you do need to take the distrbutor out. The pickup coil is under the distributor shaft. The only way to get it out is to remove the distributor and remove the shaft by removing the pin on the bottom that holds on the drive gear. But before you go through all this measure the restance of the pick up coil with a multimeter to make sure that is the problem.
 
That's not the first time I've heard of a new-off-the-shelf part being bad. Same thing happened to a buddy of mine in his 89 1 ton. I forget exactly which part it was but the one he bought was bad. He had to get the dealer to look at it and they replaced a part he had replaced and that fixed it.

There's got to be a way to test these parts to see if they're any good.
 
I had a problem a while back, which all led to the ignition module. Code 42 IIRC. I got a new one, ran better, but still had an intermittent problem. Would sputter and die at a traffic light, or just generally run loud and stumble a lot. I ran through a bunch of tests, isolating different areas.

I had a hunch and borrowed a friends Snap-On scanner. I remember seeing something on the road test that didnt make sense. It was contradicting what everything elso told me. I looked at wiring schematics, and found that the only logical problem could have been faulty wiring or a bad computer. I tested resistance at a few wires I could get to, and took the gamble with the computer. Got a brand new GM TBI comp. Fixed it good as new. Re-used old PROM.

I dont recommmed throwing parts at it. Buy a service manual, and be parient, and isolate different areas to figure out where the problem lies.

I generally dont trust mechanics to find the problem. Truck has only been to a shop twice since I owned it. Once was out of my frustration and I was younger. 2nd was an order from my parents to get it out of their house. I will never take it back to another mechanic.

With the right tools and enough patience and guidance, there is nothing you cannot fix yourself...

Good luck, and post up what you can find, Ill try my best to help out...
 
The only modules anyone has had luck with seem to be the Delco replacements. (at least as far as not having new pieces bad out of the box nearly as often as aftermarket)

I think the Delco modules list around $50, so I don't think you were taken really.
 
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