the dip stick is supposed to be a press fit, and getting a new one into a block can be a chore. I put 1/4 bolt and gently persuade with a dead blow. don't forget the lower tube, that one just slide in.
CK5
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Engine dipstick tube side determines year ?!?
- Thread starter ColAdo82K5
- Start date
I use a closed end wrench, 3/8" I believe. Slide it down the tube and rest it on the flare. Then get a long extension to smack it with a hammer.
Yes that method works too, I did damage the bubble, it cracked, one time. Might have been a second or third install of that tube.
There's a lower tube or 2 piece on the '88 blocks huh
for sure the 1st gen, I won't b et money on second gen, could be all in 1
Info on some of this stuff is tough to find. i think. I read that the extension kept the dipstick clear of the crank? Mine is immediately above the pan.
I cracked one when I first started out wrenching and afterwards started putting the tube in the freezer for a while then put a little heat to the block area and used an open end of a wrench on the flare of the tube then gently tap it in place - worked great.
I'll try that since it's such a press fit, I'm gonna guess you don't need silicone?
I did use bearing mount compound a few times but I would assume that there will be no taking the tubes out in good condition after that - never had to go back into those motors to find out first hand.
All others there was no sealant used and never an issue - the interference fit seems to work out well enough.
All others there was no sealant used and never an issue - the interference fit seems to work out well enough.
Good thoughts
Thank you.
Thank you.
Now that I've frozen my dipstick off I've discovered another problem: when i move the shifter into park, the transmission? grinds. It's a fresh 700r4. Maybe the tc? Because teying to shift into 4wd makes the same grinding sound. thoughts ? Anyone ?
If your t case is in neutral the tail on the trans will still be spinning when you try to select park. you should be stopped when trying to select 4wd, in park pref.
It's normally in 2H and when i stop to put the trans in park. Though it has done the same thing when stopped and trying to shift the tc into 4H or 4L, so idk if the two are related. Im wondering if the servo in the trans is holding a bit too tight on the band idk...
If im stipped and moving the selector from D to P, the output shaft shouldn't be turning, right ?
It shouldn't be. what transfer case do have ? maybe something in t case is worn enought to allow the trans output to continue to turn, but not enough to over power the brakes. Could also explain t case noise issue
It's a 203. It's definitely seen better days. I had ahold of the shift arms, trying to move it into 2H by hand, and had to use a prybar on the arms to make it move. The prev owner converted it to part time, but i have no idea if he rebuilt it, or not. I seem to recall clutches in that tc ?
I did just drain it, and refill it, but its been acting up for many months now
Hey, Wes, do you (or does ANYONE) happen to have pics of the linkage and shift arms connected to shifter and 203 tc ? Im wondering if somebody reversed the rods, or swapped ends etc. I sure wish i had taken pics while it was all out. C'est la vie.
Thanks, Wes
This is just a pic off of the 47~72 forum but I think it is OEM correct ( it’s a 465/203 setup but the linkage is the same ).
Also, no clutches inside a 203 either full time or converted part time.
HTH’s, Tom
