Clear hose...
CK5
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Engine not reaching operating temp
- Thread starter Slade001
- Start date
Yeah, but I've got vacuum line handy! lol.
Good idea. Going to look into clear stuff.
Good idea. Going to look into clear stuff.
Since getting a good clear hose I have not tasted anti freeze, gas etc... 
72blazerguy
3/4 ton status
Do you have an air compressor and a blow gun? Put a piece of hose in the radiator and point the other end towards a bucket. The blow compressed air right in front of the end of the hose also towards the bucket, it will start the siphon. If that makes sense
But in all seriousness antifreeze is poison to kidneys and liver is what kills you so ever little bit you drink is toxic. It's a horrible way to die for many cats and dogs who find a pan full and think it's tasty...
You guys are hilarious. I'll just get the cheapo siphon. I can use it in other places as well. I got a gift card from my dad for Christmas.
I'll drain the radiator, check the CTS resistance, the seating of thermostat and post the results.
Thanks for all the help.
I'll drain the radiator, check the CTS resistance, the seating of thermostat and post the results.
Thanks for all the help.
Blow gun idea is good too if that's an option. Minimizing exposure to any chemical/concoction is a good idea, pretty much every liquid/chemical/concoction used on or in a vehicle is toxic in one manner or another.
I went and bought a cheap siphon from harbor freight, it worked like a dream. NO mess at all.
So I drained off as much coolant as I could, removed the thermostat housing and inspected the seat. It was "fairly" clean. But after everything that was said about dirt and debris, I took a razor and cleaned off all the old gasket material and then took a brass brush and cleaned the mating surface. 100%. There is the smallest gap between the edge of the thermostat and the edge of the seat, but its clean and seated as well as it can be. Hopefully this won't affect the thermostat operation.
So right now I have the positive terminal off to "clear" the codes and tomorrow we'll see how things go. I was about to take a reading on the CTS and realized that I don[t have a good set of multimeter probes. So I'll do that tomorrow. I'll post the results of the resistance check and we can go from there.
Thanks again.
So I drained off as much coolant as I could, removed the thermostat housing and inspected the seat. It was "fairly" clean. But after everything that was said about dirt and debris, I took a razor and cleaned off all the old gasket material and then took a brass brush and cleaned the mating surface. 100%. There is the smallest gap between the edge of the thermostat and the edge of the seat, but its clean and seated as well as it can be. Hopefully this won't affect the thermostat operation.
So right now I have the positive terminal off to "clear" the codes and tomorrow we'll see how things go. I was about to take a reading on the CTS and realized that I don[t have a good set of multimeter probes. So I'll do that tomorrow. I'll post the results of the resistance check and we can go from there.
Thanks again.
black dawg
1/2 ton status
If you feel that the fit of the t stat in the intake manifold is poor, you can use a little silicone to seal it.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I may do that with mine as well once I get it running again, I was thinking the other day that maybe the t-stat is being pushed up and out of it's seat slightly, just enough to let coolant slip through and enough to not let it get warm enough on those stupid cold days.
Maybe the newer t-stats are made thinner, sure they sit well in their little area, but maybe once you put the housing on, it doesn't sit flat on the t-stat holding it down tight enough.
OK here's the scenario. I have driven the Blazer for a week since I pulled the positive terminal over night to "clear the codes". The truck still is not getting to the designated 195º. I checked the CTS resistance, it was fairly close. However I am no longer getting the code 15. I am NOW getting code 32
- EGR circuit fault or Barometric (BARO) sensor or circuit fault (Check
the vacuum source and all vacuum lines).
What's the deal with that? I haven't touched the EGR since I replaced it with a brand new AC Delco. I replaced all of the vacuum lines with brand new rubber.
Thoughts? Ideas?
- EGR circuit fault or Barometric (BARO) sensor or circuit fault (Check
the vacuum source and all vacuum lines).
What's the deal with that? I haven't touched the EGR since I replaced it with a brand new AC Delco. I replaced all of the vacuum lines with brand new rubber.
Thoughts? Ideas?
In the Injection Section Stickys there is a link to TBI Codes and shows how to test all the EGR circuit and wiring like the solenoid.
Also there are 2 different types of EGR that look identical that have caused issues for guys in trucks and the third gen Camaros etc... yes coming straight out of an AC delco box...
That said there has always been issues with EGR Code 32 with a modified engine or even dual exhaust. I've found the Code 32 tests in the chip and can now adjust them so the test is still run, but passes with modifications.
Also there are 2 different types of EGR that look identical that have caused issues for guys in trucks and the third gen Camaros etc... yes coming straight out of an AC delco box...
That said there has always been issues with EGR Code 32 with a modified engine or even dual exhaust. I've found the Code 32 tests in the chip and can now adjust them so the test is still run, but passes with modifications.
