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Engine oil- gotta decide what to run!

blowedupmotor87

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It is WAY past time for me to change the Jimmy's oil. It still has break in oil in it (been only MAYBE 2000 miles, probably a lot less, but has been in for almost 3 years now, DOH!!!). So, gotta change it out.

All my other vehicles have either been new enough to have the manufacturer specify an oil type or old enough to have it not matter! So, the Jimmy is my first vehicle that I am completely starting fresh on oil-wise!

I am assuming it (like many other GM's) likes 10w30, correct? So, do y'all recommend running synthetic, conventional, blend? Specific brand preferences? Oil filter preferences? (bought a K&N for this time around but, am open to suggestions!)

I've got about 6 quarts of various 10w30 oils in my garage (Mobile 1, Valvoline High mileage, Valvoline generic, and I think some Pennzoil) that are a mix of synthetic and conventional from over the years (from vehicles of mine and my friends). Could be the makings of a free oil change BUT, seems to me that a random mix of oils (though all 10w30) thrown together may not be the wisest course of action?

Thanks for any input everybody!!! :thumb:

EDIT: Forgot to give details on the motor! It is a stock replacement 350TBI, GM crate motor, nothing souped up. (200HP 300LBFT (IIRC?)).
 
Lots of people have their opinions.

I would not combine all the oils you have.

I would run a WIX, or Napa Gold Filter.

As for oil, it depends what you want to spend. Lots of guys swear by Synthetic's, and I run full syn in my BMW....but in my truck, i run conventional.

Would rather just change it every 3k.
 
new motor, synthetic and top quality filter. You paid alot of money for that new motor, try to keep it clean and running for a long time.

I switched all my vehicles over to synthetic, even the higher mileage ones recently, and i won't go back to anything else now, just from little things it helps and does to the engines.

My Burb that i just put a brand new motor in is running 10/30 full syn with Mobile 1 filter.

I had a hard time with the expense of the synthetic oil at first, but the more i thought about it, the more i realized, yes, it's twice as expensive, but then again, you don't have to change the oil for two maybe three times as long as conventional oil, so it basically works out to be about the same price, BUT the added benefit to the synthetic is better heat protection (viscosity) of thermal breakdown, and a cleaner running oil, it's not suppose to sludge up like conventional oil does. THAT'S what i don't want, that sludging part or dirty crap left behind as the mileage gets up there.
 
oh yeah, Wix filters all the way,

Napa Gold or the Top Car Quest oil filters are all WIX fileters.

DO NOT run Good oil with a cheap filter....even a POS fram
 
Anybody ran the K&N filters yet? I'd never seen a K&N oil filter before this latest trip to Advanced (my nearest auto place). Seems like a pretty stout piece, good sized, with a convenient welded on nut to put a wrench on for removal. They look good... :dunno:

General consensus seems to be WIX or NAPA gold. Maybe I'll return the K&N then.

Seriously considering running Mobil 1 full synthetic. Or maybe Royal Purple? On a separate note- what's the deal with AMSoil, is it really that great?

Definitely not gonna mix the rag tag bunch of left over oil in my garage, LOL! :haha:
 
and fyi if tbi engine from 87-up ish thay take 5w-30 oil spec . or the thicker you go the more fuel thay drink. all the bearing clearences are set for the specific oil weights. so thicker is not always better.

and 5w or 10w in the first half is for cold temp weight.

30 or 40 in second half is for the hot weight of the oil.

so if you want thicker when hotter then higher second number not first.
 
Pretty sure the oil fill cap (or manual?) on my burb says 10w30. My 94 ran 5w30....but the burb is different.

Really, not a big deal either way.....30 wt when warm either way.
 
Anybody ran the K&N filters yet? I'd never seen a K&N oil filter before this latest trip to Advanced (my nearest auto place). Seems like a pretty stout piece, good sized, with a convenient welded on nut to put a wrench on for removal. They look good... :dunno:

General consensus seems to be WIX or NAPA gold. Maybe I'll return the K&N then.

Seriously considering running Mobil 1 full synthetic. Or maybe Royal Purple? On a separate note- what's the deal with AMSoil, is it really that great?

Definitely not gonna mix the rag tag bunch of left over oil in my garage, LOL! :haha:

I am running Royal Purple & a K&N oil filter. I went to O'Rileys & they had a sale K&N oil filter & 5qts RP for $30! I switched & noticed a difference right away.
 
Factory calls for 5w30 in my '89 5.7L and my '05 Yukon 5.3L. I run Mobile 1 High Mileage in mine (154k on the Jimmy and around 75K on the Yukon) and have begun using the NAPA gold filters. You can change your oil with synthetic for around $30 so I'm cool with paying the premium for an oil that will hopefully make my engine last longer.
 
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Mine calls for 5-30 also, tried runing 10-30 and it didnt seem to like it from what I can remember, it was a long time ago. Been using 5-30 synthetic all the time now. But I waited till about 10,000 miles to switch it over to the syn after rebuild.
 
I would just buy whatever 10w30 is on sale, and dump it at 3K miles.

if you are going to put some miles on the truck, and you want to go to extended drain intervals, invest in having the oil analyzed throughout the process, and have some evidence that the oil you buy is living up to its claims.

"synthetic" has been a marketing term for a long time now. additive levels and TBN are down across the board because of EPA mandates no matter what the bottles or the oil commercials say, so you gotta be careful.
 
K&N make good filters, the mobil 1 filters are good too. I run either depending on my mood when i walk into the store.

But 10w30 for sure. I'm a fan of vavoline and mobil 1. its up to you though
 
Lots of choices to make! Also, I'd never previously heard of running 5w30 in it, I thought GM's were pretty much 10w30 across the board for gas engines? I wonder though if it gets cold enough here for oil viscosity at low temps to be that big of a concern? (to necessitate 5w30 instead of 10w30)
 

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