engine problem

[ronnny]

Just got a little four cyl. truck and when you turn it off it keeps wanting to run. I think called dieseling? But anyway, I have done nothing to the little truck yet. What is it that I need to do to get this little truck to quit this? It has a 2.2 five speed. It has a weber carb on it and the motor i was told only has 150,000. This truck starts and runs fine. I have been told to run all kinds of things through the motor. What do i do to it? And is this not caused by a carbon build up on the valves or somethin'?

 

[kennyw]

It can be caused by many problems. Carbon on the valves, maybe. But more likely timing set wrong, worn out timing chain or iIdle set too high...

 

[dirtwarrior17]

It can be caused by many problems. Carbon on the valves, maybe. But more likely timing set wrong, worn out timing chain or iIdle set too high...

what he said...

 

[Mad-Dog]

Are you sure it's dieseling which would indicate excessive carbon build-up and high operating temps.
You say the motor runs fine normally so i am skeptical of your diagnosis, if it continues to run normally after the ignition is turned off then the alternator may be back-feeding the ignition after the engine is switched off,
a diode will cure that problem.
If it is indeed dieseling when you switch it off then it has driveability problems also and should be de-carboned, check the cooling system, also check the timing belt to ensure the valve timing is not retarded and check the ignition timing as well...........but you say the motor runs fine so who knows

 

[dirtwarrior17]

My guess is the timing..... 150k doesn't seem like it would be enough to build up that much carbon, unless it was running pig rich.

 

[ronnny]

I took the wheels and tires off to put some free used ones on. I will drive the truck home tomorrow. I drove the truck around the mans pasture a little and let it run near 15 min. when you turn the key off it tries to die but spits and sputter excessively. They truck he said had been doing this since he got the truck but only drove it a couple months before losing his liecsen sp and let it set a year till deciding it must go. He also added that he has done no more than put the distributer cap back on one time when it came loose and change the oil a time or two. The truck does need a ignition switch it start with a screw driver. It does all else normal with this switch. And the battery he left in there did not drain down in four days between the 2 times I looked at the truck. So to see if it is the diode you speak of i can just splice a switch into the power wire to the distributer, right? I will pull the plugs to look at cause this should be a indication of what the rest of the combustion chamber looks like. I was told by a guy at work that works on cars that if the timing were to far advanced that when it did not start when cranking it would act as if it tries to spin the motor back some when you stop using the starter. Also to mark where the timing is set and turn the dist. clockwise a little to retard the timing and see if it gets better.

 

[Mad-Dog]

A simple way to set the timing w/o a timing light is to remove and plug the vacuum line going to the advance canister then hook a vacuum gauge to a source of manifold vacuum.......advance the initial timing until highest vacuum is achieved then back off a touch and snug it down, then reattach the vacuum advance line.
Unless the timing chain is brand new and has no slack in it then using a light to set the ignition timing when the valve timing is retarded is a waste of time,
try restarting the engine a few times with the new settings.....if it spins slowly or starts hard the timing may be a touch advanced but it's usually a weak starting system......starter drawing too much current, bad grounds,etc.

 

[ronnny]

Have a few vacuum gauge aroundso will try before trying to pass test (emmisions). When running i turned it off today and it keep on spitting and sputtering so i pulled the 2 coil wires off and it still kept on. It has 8 plugs and 2 coils. Only one dist.. Runs fine like i said.

 

[Kiwi John]

The ignition switch has got to be suspect no.1 as it may be shorting out inside after too much attention from the screwdriver so i'd change that first.
You can't be sure about the carbon build-up but a simple check would be to pull the spark plugs and check them for carbon deposits.
If the engine runs well then why change all the ignition timing settings?

 

[ronnny]

marked the distributer and adjusted and tried a few different spots. Nothing really changed. When running and i cut it off i pulled the coil wires (like said two coils and 2 plugs to each cyl.) off the cap and still trying to run. Would this not say it is not the ignition? Or a imidiate timing problem? It runs fine and probably tomorrow my boys friend may take it to work for a free test so i will know if it will pass or more to do. If it does not pass i will most likely use the wife sisters address where it is not needed for the next few months till jan. when it is no longer needed. I need to start driving it cause the price of gas in the k10 is killing me. 3x the gas mileage will be great. This will also give me more time to work on the k10 without having to be done in less than a day so i can drive it to work the next day.

Would it not having a good ground from the motor to the battery cause this? I do not see a big one like on most that i have seen. Will try that tomorrow after work. But how much do you feel like doing after 12 hours at work then a drive home.