I have found two good 599 blocks that will clean up to work with standard pistons both were low mile motors that had cracked heads or pistons. The cylinder bores look and measure out good. I have a set of pistons from a later model pin spray block that are in good shape. I have checked the pistons out for wear and started fitting them to the new block. Will it be okay to use a pump from the later pin spray block. The pump may have 4 or 5 hundred miles on it before the blocl developed water leaks. I plan on using the cam and lifters from this engine also. I will be putting a turbo on this also. Will anthing be gained in the cylinder heads if I put the larger valves in it from the earlier 6.2j heads? I want to have a solid engine when I'm done will pull a jeep and drag car some with this truck. thanks
CK5
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engine rebuild help
- Thread starter odee1
- Start date
The pump from the spray block will be of the DS4 electronic variety, so you'll have to have the 'puter and harness to match.
Just go back with the regular valves. Nothing substantial is gained from the only slightly larger valves other than a greater tendency for the heads to crack in between the valves.
Just go back with the regular valves. Nothing substantial is gained from the only slightly larger valves other than a greater tendency for the heads to crack in between the valves.
Oil pumps are fairly cheap. Unless you're 100% sure that it's brand new and working perfectly, I'd change it. You've got it apart, and now is the easiest time anyway. Just be sure you get a genuine GM one, and you'll be fine.
Steve_87K5
1/2 ton status
I'm doing the same thing....building up a 599 6.5 from salvaged engines.
Maybe someone who knows could clarify what all the stampings on the bottom of the block means. I know some of them relate to the piston sizes which were fitted at the factory. I think some also relate to the size of the crank bearings. GM offers different size main bearings to get the oil clearance just right.
I have salvaged 5 engines from dealer dumpster diving, and saved all the parts which looked OK. (I got permission first)
So I have a collection of precups, with 4 different sizes and shapes of holes. The largest is about 9/16" out of a '93 TD. The smallest is about 3/8" out
of an '83 6.2
I have heard that the small cups are better for economy. Maybe they'll fit
in the later heads, I don't know yet.
One thing I'd like to do at this stage is drill/tap the block for a relocated water jacket drain on one side. The boss on one side appears to accomodate a relocated drain (the engine block drain on one side is inaccesable because it is behind the engine mount). Anybody done this?
The '83 block I salvaged had the cooling passage around #8 totally blocked with crud. I cleaned it out by putting some 1/4 steel tubing in my pressure washer and sticking it down in the head bolt holes. No wonder the head cracked at #8.
I started spending money on my project with this '83 6.2 block before I was aware of the stronger 599 lower end. Since the '83 will be built (now at 030 over) for economy, it should stay together. I bought new pistons and had the rot. assy balanced so far.
Any assembly tips for making the bottom end on a 6.2 (non599) block
stay together over the long run? Balance for sure is the main thing.
Maybe someone who knows could clarify what all the stampings on the bottom of the block means. I know some of them relate to the piston sizes which were fitted at the factory. I think some also relate to the size of the crank bearings. GM offers different size main bearings to get the oil clearance just right.
I have salvaged 5 engines from dealer dumpster diving, and saved all the parts which looked OK. (I got permission first)
So I have a collection of precups, with 4 different sizes and shapes of holes. The largest is about 9/16" out of a '93 TD. The smallest is about 3/8" out
of an '83 6.2
I have heard that the small cups are better for economy. Maybe they'll fit
in the later heads, I don't know yet.
One thing I'd like to do at this stage is drill/tap the block for a relocated water jacket drain on one side. The boss on one side appears to accomodate a relocated drain (the engine block drain on one side is inaccesable because it is behind the engine mount). Anybody done this?
The '83 block I salvaged had the cooling passage around #8 totally blocked with crud. I cleaned it out by putting some 1/4 steel tubing in my pressure washer and sticking it down in the head bolt holes. No wonder the head cracked at #8.
I started spending money on my project with this '83 6.2 block before I was aware of the stronger 599 lower end. Since the '83 will be built (now at 030 over) for economy, it should stay together. I bought new pistons and had the rot. assy balanced so far.
Any assembly tips for making the bottom end on a 6.2 (non599) block
stay together over the long run? Balance for sure is the main thing.
I found this for the 6.2/6.5 which looks like it'd really help.
http://www.dieselservices.com/webstore/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=52&CFID=260480&CFTOKEN=55553140
$144 US doesn't seem like a bad price for a stud girdle kit...
Rene
http://www.dieselservices.com/webstore/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=52&CFID=260480&CFTOKEN=55553140
$144 US doesn't seem like a bad price for a stud girdle kit...
Rene
