So I just tore down my block to get it cleaned and honed to start to rebuild process. I’m trying to keep things pretty mild. Looking for suggestions for a good rebuild kit. Does anyone have experience with one you would recommend? Also this was previously a tbi motor but I’ll be switching to a carburetor. Will a standard carb intake fit or will I need some special adapter intake? For some reason I thought I heard some time ago that the heads were different between the two? Suggestions on intakes and carbs? I’m looking at Edelbrock for both right now. Thanks in advance.
CK5
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Engine rebuild suggestions
- Thread starter Jake_C_
- Start date
383 stroker kit.
I'm no expert but I believe you can drill out the carbed intake holes to align with the TBI heads...(Think they are angled more )...
Edelbrocks are good street use carbs,off road they tend to be "floody" ,even with the kit to change to spring loaded needle valves..
If you can find an Edelbrock "spread bore" intended to replace a Quadrajet carb,those worked equally well as a Q-jet ...overall a Q-jet is probably the best all around carb...but they need to be tweaked by someone to get optimum results..
Holleys,I don't have much luck with ,based on my previous attempts at using them and friends that had them,they tend to be fussy and problematic...the few I had that worked well were "Economaster" OEM replacement carbs and a few 2 bbl OEM ones off Mopars I put on my 307 Chevys,they are a direct bolt on deal..
Newer Holleys may not be as bad as the older ones,I've never had one..
I haven't bought engine parts in decades,but a few friends used a kit from a place called "Northern Auto Parts"--the parts were all brand names like Federal-Mogul,Fel-Pro,etc...no cheap china stuff..
But there are probably a dozen other places with equally good kits now..engine kits, engine rebuild kits, engine kit | Northern Auto Parts
Edelbrocks are good street use carbs,off road they tend to be "floody" ,even with the kit to change to spring loaded needle valves..
If you can find an Edelbrock "spread bore" intended to replace a Quadrajet carb,those worked equally well as a Q-jet ...overall a Q-jet is probably the best all around carb...but they need to be tweaked by someone to get optimum results..
Holleys,I don't have much luck with ,based on my previous attempts at using them and friends that had them,they tend to be fussy and problematic...the few I had that worked well were "Economaster" OEM replacement carbs and a few 2 bbl OEM ones off Mopars I put on my 307 Chevys,they are a direct bolt on deal..
Newer Holleys may not be as bad as the older ones,I've never had one..
I haven't bought engine parts in decades,but a few friends used a kit from a place called "Northern Auto Parts"--the parts were all brand names like Federal-Mogul,Fel-Pro,etc...no cheap china stuff..
But there are probably a dozen other places with equally good kits now..engine kits, engine rebuild kits, engine kit | Northern Auto Parts
An intake like this will work for the conversion. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Perform...jOi58SrYBWkFKkN798_I-NRReBQ8MseMaAjHtEALw_wcB
Also get a big cap HEI distributor with vacuum advance.
I haven't bought an engine kit in long time, so recommendation. I am sure Summit and jegs stuff is up to the job.
Personally I would balance the engine.
Also get a big cap HEI distributor with vacuum advance.
I haven't bought an engine kit in long time, so recommendation. I am sure Summit and jegs stuff is up to the job.
Personally I would balance the engine.
I’ve had great luck with my edelbrock carb off road. I added the spring loaded needles and then put a piece of fuel hose in the passage between the two fuel bowls to block it from spilling side to side. Haven’t had an issue going uphill up to 30* and down hill I’m good to about 25*. After that it’ll bog on some heavy bumps but a little throttle whack cleans it up.
I had a 625 CFM Carter AFB that did fine on both street and while plowing,I got my truck off camber and pointed nose up in snow banks with no stalling or flooding...
An Edelbrock I had that was externally identical was just the opposite--I adjusted the floats,replaced them,but it threatened to load up and stall every time I got the truck nosed up,or tilted,or bounced it on lumpy trails...maybe the fuel hose trick would have cured it..
I don't think it was the needle valves causing it..
A Q-jet will practically keep an engine running even if its upside down !..
An Edelbrock I had that was externally identical was just the opposite--I adjusted the floats,replaced them,but it threatened to load up and stall every time I got the truck nosed up,or tilted,or bounced it on lumpy trails...maybe the fuel hose trick would have cured it..
I don't think it was the needle valves causing it..
A Q-jet will practically keep an engine running even if its upside down !..
Sorry, I zoned out when I read the EFI to lawnmower injection downgrade. Usually just a way to bring in 10 new issues to get around the 1 or 2 issues you hadn't solved with the factory setup yet.
You sir win the internet today...
Just an intake for vortec heads should work
Vortec intake would be for good heads, AKA Vortecs. TBI heads have the two center bolt holes angled, so neither the earlier carbed intake will bolt up, nor will a Vortec intake.
Some bias there, TBI heads really aren't terrible heads for a truck engine at truck RPM's.
Edelbrock QC isn't what it used to be according to the machine shop I use...they said they had to machine both of my heads to make them flat last year. Not too far out of tolerance, but not where you would expect from them. They have had other similar problems, also, so take that into account. If I could go back, I would use Trick Flow heads instead of Edelbrock. Bottom line, though, is I agree with Blue 85 et al. There is a reason you can't buy a carb on an new vehicle these days. Do you have a rotary phone, also?
Na I pick up the mouth piece and click the lever twice, then tell the switch board to connect me, better than the old party line.
As usual I appreciate all the responses, I made the post to get some answers and hopefully build confidence seeing as I’ve never done one before and I do feel out of my depth a little. Kind of had the opposite affect. As far as a rebuild kit goes I can figure that out. I’m still confused on the intake. Will an intake for vortec heads fit or not? And if not what intake will. And in case it wasn’t clear I’m trying to keep the heads I have if possible. Thanks to everyone trying to help.
since you have it torn down give us the casting numbers on your heads. This will be a 7 or digit number cast into the heads on the spring\rocker area. That way we know what exactly we are recommending.
Look your crank over around the front counter weight for stamped in numbers like 10 10, or 10 20, 20 20. If you are going to reuse your crank this will tell if it has been machined before, and what the under size is.
Look your crank over around the front counter weight for stamped in numbers like 10 10, or 10 20, 20 20. If you are going to reuse your crank this will tell if it has been machined before, and what the under size is.
I have a rotary phone in my garage...
But it wont ring any more--I ran over the wires from the house to it with my riding mower a few years ago,they came down in a strong wind ,didn't see them.....don't miss having it really,all it did was interrupt me when I was working on something..
Now I have a cell phone on me 24/7 too..
But it wont ring any more--I ran over the wires from the house to it with my riding mower a few years ago,they came down in a strong wind ,didn't see them.....don't miss having it really,all it did was interrupt me when I was working on something..
Now I have a cell phone on me 24/7 too..
I’ll get pictures of all that tomorrow, thanks for the help.
Should say 7 or 8 digit number
Vortecs are real, real simple to ID. Each head will only have four intake bolts, and all 4 will go in vertical as installed on the engine. There is also no crossover for EGR.
As I recall the image cast into the end of the head is like two upside V's. But that's a judgment call. Four vertical intake bolts=vortec.
ok so these are odd heads, they are similar to gen 1 sbc, only the 4 center bolt holes are at a different angle. These are not votec heads. I would look for set of heads and not spend any money on these.
Either go old school with some good gen 1's, or update to real votec heads and the manifold to match.
hole
Also these heads need guide plates or shelf centering rocker, because of the round push rod holes
Either go old school with some good gen 1's, or update to real votec heads and the manifold to match.
hole
Also these heads need guide plates or shelf centering rocker, because of the round push rod holes
